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2G fuel sending unit, fuel line nut

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etay89

10+ Year Contributor
866
6
Dec 27, 2009
Monroeville, Pennsylvania
in the midst of an AWD swap, i can't seem to get either nut off of either fuel sending unit.

with the gst: the 14mm is slightly stripped, 19mm is not and i'm basically twisting the line. I want the fuel line. in way better shape than the GSX's

with the gsx: 14mm and 19mm nuts are fine but i fear breaking the sender because obviously, i need it.

so far, i've tried using aero kroil (it's WAY better than WD40 and PB blast will EVER be) and it's not budging without being a line. any tips?

GST
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/61577532@N06/5971919481/" title="IMAG0867 by etay1989, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6008/5971919481_aa961cfc9b_z.jpg" width="383" height="640" alt="IMAG0867"></a>

GSX
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/61577532@N06/5972475926/" title="IMAG0866 by etay1989, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6020/5972475926_a70754a1e6_z.jpg" width="640" height="383" alt="IMAG0866"></a>
 
Well when I was changing my fuel pump I actually broke that 14mm they're really. Hard to get them loose but I seen on autozone sending unit repair kit but I don't know if Is anygood for you . Or no I had to buy mind used from ebay. Sucks right.
 
What I did on mine was get locking pliers n locked it down on the fuel pump assembly nut... Then I added pb blaster to the connection waited 5 min I loosened up the hose side of it with a wrench and a long tube on the wrench to get better leverage on it a but make sure the pliers dont move move so u won't bend the tube from the assembly... Same goes for the bottom part of the hose
 
If there is no actual fuel... Heat that bi*** up then through cold water on it. Then heat it up again. The hot-cold should break an rust loose, then heat again and it should be a bit easier to turn.

I have a hard time believeing it can't be fixed with something that is 10x better than pb-blaster. I have used that stuff to break loose nuts I thought I was going to break with my 4 foot cheater bar.
 
Agreed, bite the bullet and go -6 an feed from tank to fuel filter. But how I did mine was soak it with pb blaster, and used vice grips and griped the fuel pump fitting really tight, then used a wrench for the other side. It took quit a bit abuse before finally breaking loose, and bent the line a little bit, but not as bad in your pic. But I plan on going an fittings anyways.
 
Vise Grips will be your best friend with your issues. Get two of them and lock the one on the hard line against the chassis somewhere so it cant move (bend) that much then lock the soft hose side and go to town. You will need to disconnect the line under the car first then the one on the fuel sender itself.
 
Looks like you haven't removed the fuel line from the bottom of the car yet? If not undo that line (where the hose connects to the metal line) and then you can pull the hanger out and get at the top fitting better.
 
I had a helluva time doing this last week when installing my updated fuel system. I too bent up the output line and rounded the fitting on it, and I had been using a damned flare wrench. After leaving pb blaster on it for a day, I came back and attached vice grips to the hard line fitting, and a 19mm I think flare wrench on the soft line fitting and it finally came lose. I then very carefully unkinked the hard line by rotating with the vice grips. I got very lucky that the hard line didn't break.
 
yeah I must be weak or something because I can't break either.

also the line is bent on the gst assembly. I don't care about that assembly, just the gsx pump assembly which is just tad dirty.

I've tried vice grips..and even at the tightest setting, still no budge. I don't mind getting a -6an tank to filter kit. I can't take the line off from underneath either (already tried). what ill do for now is maybe cut both soft fuel lines and get a metal fitting then use teflon tape to cover it
 
yeah I must be weak or something because I can't break either.

also the line is bent on the gst assembly. I don't care about that assembly, just the gsx pump assembly which is just tad dirty.

I've tried vice grips..and even at the tightest setting, still no budge. I don't mind getting a -6an tank to filter kit. I can't take the line off from underneath either (already tried). what ill do for now is maybe cut both soft fuel lines and get a metal fitting then use teflon tape to cover it

Try a pipe like I said to get a leverage on it... It was really hard on mine 2... When I got my car it didn't have a bak seat n had been sitting down for about 2 years close to the beach so u can imagine the rust..
 
so is the only way to get a replacement sender out of a parts car? id really like to get a whole new sender because the one i have is rusted to the point that i dont trust it and the line already kinked...anyone have any advice?
 
For future reference for anyone that reads this. THERE IS NO NUT. The part that appears to be a nut is brazed to the line. If you attempt to turn it you will twist the line. You have to hold that with a wrench (i prefer flat jaw vice grips) and turn the line. Before you remove the hose from the sending unit you must unto the fuel line to hose under the car. From there you can twist the hose from the sending unit.

so is the only way to get a replacement sender out of a parts car? id really like to get a whole new sender because the one i have is rusted to the point that i dont trust it and the line already kinked...anyone have any advice?

You can buy a new one but they are pretty pricey, STM: OEM MITSUBISHI FUEL SENDING UNIT | 95-99 DSM AWD | MR344715 500 bucks. The best thing to do is to just add a bulkhead and use braided line, or you could weld a new line in it if you want to get creative.
 
The only way to utilize a bulkhead on a 2g is to use a -8 or -10 and drill it out to allow the outlet of the pump to slide in and fit snug. I prefer to weld a bung to the top of the pump assembly, but this bulkhead method works too.
 

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