OK can anyone confirm if the plug on the 2G 4g63 cars are needed?

I left mine unwired in the rewire because I'm DBW and running on an S2 Haltech and it was my understanding (I read posts that said) that the plug was just to bump idle for power steering bog. Getting the car going I'm getting low voltage CELs on Haltech, this disables the DBW and I can't get past this hurdle until I fix it.

Now I'm doubting the internet... Can someone in the least run their car with the plug unplugged and see if their voltage drops aka the alternator shuts down.
-Dave

Does any of this apply to your Haltech use case?

You need 2 pin on the plug connected as in the thread Steve posted or the alternator will not charge, they are not self exciting.

steve said:

Does any of this apply to your Haltech use case?

2G - How did you get your alternator to charge your standalone system? (FT550)

Standalone folks, care to share your setup? What was the most effective way to get your alternator to charge without the stock charge light? FuelTech FT550 here.

www.dsmtuners.com

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Damn, Yeah all of that applies. Thanks Steve. Good thing I hid wiring in the new harness for it just in case. I think I should be able to DPO in place of the light/resistor tho and let Haltech do it's thing.

This is going inline to the alternator along with a dedicated 12v wire directly from the battery to S. Well see if she works. Made it removable and up under the dash just in case it's wrong.

I think you may have the diode reversed.

You want current to flow from the battery through the resistor and diode to the alternator to energize the field coil on startup. The diode is intended to block the reverse from happening. So the Diode's cathode (the band) needs to be on the Alternator side of your cable not the resistor side.

steve said:

I think you may have the diode reversed.

You want current to flow from the battery through the resistor and diode to the alternator to energize the field coil on startup. The diode is intended to block the reverse from happening. So the Diode's cathode (the band) needs to be on the Alternator side of your cable not the resistor side.

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Thanks! I'll flip it and install then.

dwdsm said:

This is going inline to the alternator along with a dedicated 12v wire directly from the battery to S. Well see if she works. Made it removable and up under the dash just in case it's wrong.

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Why didn’t you solder the wires to the leads?

danl said:

Why didn’t you solder the wires to the leads?

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Cold crimps hold up to vibration better. I build harness locally and the automotive wiring classes I took pretty much said solder should be avoided if possible.

What are cold crimps?

danl said:

What are cold crimps?

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I use open barrel, it looks kind of like a pin for your ecu that you would use special ratcheting crimpers to attach. Takes a U shaped piece of brass and crushes one end into a v then drives the open end into the wiring like grabbing two fists full of hair. So like this but there are ones for simply combining wiring. Then adhesive line shrink tube and this old farm kid can't yank the connection apart. I always give them a good tug test. This one in the picture looks under crimped to me but it's the first example I found.

I see them now, they are right up to the diode. At first glance I thought you wrapped bare wire around the diode lead and called that good.

danl said:

I see them now, they are right up to the diode. At first glance I thought you wrapped bare wire around the diode lead and called that good.

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Ah yeah I crimped them right up against both the diode and the resistor. Made it real easy to crimp. Just had to strip a bunch more then usual.

Let us know if this worked for you.

i dont know if this will help but i have access to the diagrams, lmk if you want a specific year/make or diagram