This is the Build Thread for 2G Auto Build. Reply below.

How it always starts.....unloading some NON-RUNNING junk from a trailer. Never fails....

Bruuuuuuuh. Excited to see this.


Never thought I’d see you with an Auto DSM.

Me either....but here we are now . I think I enjoyed the power application of the auto in my truck that I was very open to an auto build. It's also my first 2G...and an Eclipse! Was never a fan, but boy, I think this one is nice. Growing on me quickly but def lots to tie it up (time wise.)

Finally got it into the garage next to my other broken car. What did I get myself into?

So, September goal is to uninstall the automatic trans, reinstall it with a couple missing parts (TC, flex plate etc ) and re-mount it in the engine bay. Once I do this I can start tackling the underside by installing the automatic differential, driveshaft, transfer case and then onto the suspension bits. Also, I need to install the exhaust that got ripped off during the tow..

Making some room for activities. I pulled the bumper off, removed the turbo kit and intake manifold from the car. Next, I want to pull the engine out, and mount the flexplate, bushing, spacer, TC. I don't have room as I am working on the Mustang at the same time (craziness ) so I am being strategic with time. During this time, I also want to figure out how I will mount my radiator fan. I have a good SPAL fan that was on my VR4 that will be going on this car. I think I have room for it. I am also looking for a rear roll stop trans mount bracket for this car. If you have one, please let me know.

Also keep in mind the transmission install is incomplete. There is no torque converter or flex plate mounted so all this shit needs to come apart.

Made some progress this weekend. Engine came out, and so did the trans, only to discover that I am missing the flexplate spacer. So, that will wait about a week before I can proceed any further. I went ahead and checked the gap for the crank trigger and mounted the mechanical fuel pump bracket and checked everything to make sure it will fit and clear when I reinstall the engine. I had to trim that engine mount stud.

The plan is to get the trans mounted and engine assembly installed back into the car this weekend.

Engine and trans are back in the car.

I had to clearance the frame a little bit for the mechanical pump to clear. I also had to mount the Magnus fuel pump bracket but before lowering the engine into its final position because you can't access one of the mounting bolts with the engine sitting in the final spot. What a pain to discover this in real time..... Anyway, everything clears fine. I had issues getting the rear engine mount lined up but discovered in the process that the inserts were not clocked correctly. The hole is kinda offset in the mount. Just one of those weird things you catch when something that's being a pain doesn't make sense. I also temporarily mounted the turbo kit so I could measure the clearance I had with the SPAL radiator fan I wanted to use, and also, so I can measure and make the oil drain line and turbo coolant lines later in the week. I also removed the manual shifter cables and shifter assembly from the car. HMU if you want those. I still need to torque down the torque converter to the flex plate but everything looks good in that department. In the mean time, I installed the Jay alternator relocation kit. I am undecided whether I want to run the Mitsu alternator (that I already have) or source a Saturn unit which worked awesome in my old car. It was a productive weekend for sure. The next week plans are to run the lines to the trans cooler, do the turbo lines (feed/drain), install front axles and front suspension to keep this project moving forward. It's finally cooling down so this gets me very excited to actually work on projects.

This is gonna sound trashy or ghetto, but seriously do a tiny little tac weld on each of the flexplate bolts. Even if you fully dip them in red loctite they're gonna be the bane of your existence making any kind of power on an Auto.


But my God this thing is gonna rip, dude. Stoked to see/hear videos of it!

I don't weld bro but I have done all my research and we will see if I can get it to hang on. It's still a long ways to running...but it will get there. I am trying to work on it several times a week. The goal is to start and run...safely, I can pretty it up later.

diambo4life said:

I don't weld bro but I have done all my research and we will see if I can get it to hang on. It's still a long ways to running...but it will get there. I am trying to work on it several times a week. Goal is to start and run...safely, I can pretty it up later.

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Curious what the fix is. And trust me, I feel you on the baby steps. It took me forever on the Talon.

Instead of tack welds, why not add some nord-lock washers or something?

Capt Obvious said:

Instead of tack welds, why not add some nord-lock washers or something?

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M8s? Seems like I can source some quickly from Amazon unless you have a better source locally. I would like to do that this weekend and my Prime account has been very active.

CrackedDSM said:

Curious what the fix is. And trust me, I feel you on the baby steps. It took me forever on the Talon.

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I don't know about a fix but using threadlocker and 50 ft lbs of torque seems to be the ticket.

diambo4life said:

M8s? Seems like I can source some quickly from Amazon unless you have a better source locally. I would like to do that this weekend and my Prime account has been very active.

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I'd probably just grab them off Amazon.

diambo4life said:

So, September goal, is to uninstall, the automatic trans, install it with a couple missing parts and fully mount it in the engine bay. Once I do this I canstart tackling the underside by installing the automatic differential, driveshaft, tcase and then onto the suspension. Also, install the exhaust.

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So, it looks like I am a bit behind schedule, but it's the nature of the beast. This weekend I did a few things:
1. Mounted the radiator fan
2. Made and ran lines to the auto trans cooler. I used -8AN PTFE (which I later changed to -6AN later in this build.)
3. Removed the manual shifter and cables and mounted the stock auto shifter and cable
4. Mounted he AFPR and made and ran the fuel line (-10AN) to exit side of rail. (I wanted this to be on the passenger side since it's too crowded on the driver side.)
5. Ordered and received the Magnus fuel rail which is mock mounted to get the correct lengths and orientation of the fuel lines. I like this rail because it has -10AN ORB ends already.
6. I made the water lines to the water cooled turbo. Still waiting for a couple fittings to finish this up. I used the Canadian company Race-something for these fittings.
7. Installed the oil return from turbo. Used -10AN....everything is PTFE btw on the car. It was kinda of a bi*** to do since none of the fittings worked properly. The oil return flange on the CHRA was just too close to the compressor housing to run a proper 10AN return with the angle I had to clock the turbo's compressor housing. I had to get rid of one of the compressor housing braces to do so but that bad boy is well braced so I don't for see any issues. It's just one of those things you come across and have to think of a solution quickly.
8. Made the radiator hoses and other random things here and there. This was such a bi*** using the 16AN braided hose. I easily spent 20 hours working on this car since Friday.....

This week, I plan to install the TC bolts. The nordlock washers came in. Thanks @Capt Obvious for the suggestion. I also did myself a favor and watched this useful video on how to use them. I just did a quick test fit and everything should bolt on nicely. i picked up some red loctite at the store. Now, I need to find/source the intermediate shaft and bracket for this car. I also need to see what I want to do with the fuel line routing on the bottom. I have about 12-13ft of 10AN line left so I think I can run a new line to the back. The car already has some fuel lines ran so I have options. (I ended up trashing all that shit since it was old ass braided fuel lines anyway.) I need to figure out how to run an aux electric fuel pump to prime the line before the mechanical pump kicks in. Lots of thinking and figuring out to do. I need to figure out which tcase to run and also, mount the rear diff. This is tricky with the almost non-existent space around the car right now. Anyway, some quick photos. Thanks for reading.

This is how I am planning to setup my fuel system. Any critiques or thoughts on why it shouldn't work?

Plan B. All the fuel lines that were in the car were braided so they are all getting trashed and running new lines because I will be running E85 95% of the time in this car. More money .

New fuel lines were ran. 10AN feed and 8AN return, mounted my electric pump and my trusty old PTE 1650cc injectors returned from FIC after cleaning. I lowered the subframe and mounted the diff, so things are coming along nicely. Next is to undo the suspension, install axles and reinstall the suspension and tighten everything down, then driveshaft can be mounted followed by tcase.

Okay...fuel system is completely done...done (well, I still need a mechanical fuel pressure gauge) but it's complete. Mounted my crankcase catchcan. Thanks Amazon. I got the chance to install the rear passenger axle the other day after fighting with it for about 25 minutes. Now, the other one needs me to create some room on the other side of the car and I am hoping I can get that in this weekend. It's really really tight in my garage with two project cars and everything everywhere. Doing all this and not gouging or scratching the paint on either car is nothing short of a miracle. My downpipe is REALLY close to my lower intercooler piping so I will need to figure out a way for heat control. I love exhaust wrap but damn...I hate fiberglass and what it does to my hands but I might not have a choice when I get to that step. As I am working on the suspension, I am completing the installation of the EVO-8 calipers. The car seems to have a really high ride height too so I may adjust the coilovers down some when I am in there. My goal is to have everything (well 99%) of this car completed by Christmas. It's a very optimistic target date but when you get on a roll, you just wanna keep going. Whether it will run by then is a completely different story but everything mechanical and electrical I want done so I can start focusing on my Mustang. I am sure I will run into a few things that I may need to purchase here and there as always, that may delay things, but it's progressing well. I will update after this weekend.

Wow...I guess I am losing track of time. I installed both axles but one of them has a bad bearing. I think this is solely from the car being rolled around with no axles in it. They are new'ish bearings. This sucks, because they're the DSS axles that have the upgraded hubs, and at this moment, I am not sure how to replace a single one. Otherwise, I installed brakelines in the front that were missing, installed various sensors (O2, air intake temperature, map sensor, AEM BCS, and plumbed the wastegate lines. I am still sourcing small things that are missing from this build that are kinda annoying to source. I need a 95+ intermediate shaft, one that will work on a 6 bolt swapped 2G with an auto. The car has an EVO brake swap but I don't like the condition of the rotors or pads but I don't want to start buying random parts before I complete the car and it's running. Very easy to get sidetracked. I am currently waiting for a brake hose missing for the rear passenger side and I have started planning how I will route the wiring harness. Oh, I have a brake fluid reservoir enroute via Ebay because I needed everything that attached to the master cylinder, bracket, hose and all. This weekend I mounted the front lip onto the bumper securely and remounted the bumper on the car. Small victories. I am mounting the Kirkeys this week and getting rid of extra junk that's in the car so I have more room to start working in the interior.

I have separated some wheel bearings by moving the car without the axles. Now I have a set of cut axles that I install just for this reason. I have been lucky and been able to press back together the bearing that separated (once). You may want to take a look at doing that before you replace it.

I had that bearing out and it looked and felt fine but it didn't "firm up" after install. I already called DSS and they are shipping me a replacement. It actually was not super expensive as I was expecting it to be. It was $201 + $45 shipping (flat rate). So, I await its arrival and will be able to proceed with my project.