The Central Hub for DSM Community and Information

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. This is where the DSM platform history is documented and archived. Log in to help us in our mission, and to remove most ads from the browsing experience.

Your most recent welding pics

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Why is it I will weld stainless and get it silver which is perfect from what I am told and then do the bead right next to it and my original bead will turn purple/blue etc?



Working on 2 catch cans? Testing out some new tungsten and it works ok. These are nothing special to look at. Was playing with pulse too and had less than great fit up.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
 

Attachments

You must be registered for see attachments list
Slow down on the welds. Less amperage, wait for it to start to melt, fill, move, post flow shield.

Before you're able to move quickly with the filler at the right amperage, it'll be easier to start with low amperage, take the time for the lower amperage to heat the metal, go with like 3 beads of filler, stop, post flow, then move on.

Once you get the timing/technique down, THEN try doing 10 beads in a row, or 20, or 30..... Until you get the technique down, start slow. Slowly heat the joint to start--if it's melting back instantly and you're trying this--your amperage is too high (at this skill level). You want it to take two-three seconds until the joint *JUST* starts to melt away from one another, then fill.
 
Why is it I will weld stainless and get it silver which is perfect from what I am told and then do the bead right next to it and my original bead will turn purple/blue etc? [/img]




That is because the base metal has absorbed all the heat from the first weld, ideally the piece should be cooled down first. The base metal should not become higher than 300*
 
Did some practice last night on some sch40 trying to get a good convex cap and penetration. .........

You must be logged in to view this image or video.


You must be logged in to view this image or video.


You must be logged in to view this image or video.



Mike
 

Attachments

You must be registered for see attachments list
Damn. Just looks like a thick weld haha

Is about 1/4" wide


Also working on an intake manifold right now. .... u can see it sitting on the car in this pic. ....

You must be logged in to view this image or video.




Mike
 

Attachments

You must be registered for see attachments list
Thanks guys..... I would like to do the same with Collin. I need to find some guy with a higher end car to let me do some work to it cause the 4cyl stuff just doesnt compare to what u can charge for modding corvettes or gtr' s u know.


Mike
 
Guys, I got 2 videos I still need to finish. Converting the harbor freight arc welder to scratch start tig on the cheap. And Adding a digital voltage display to your mig welder :D
 
Add Value - Be Respectful - No Trolling - No Misinformation - Participate Often!
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community

Build Thread Updates

Latest Classifieds

  • For sale 2g 2G DSM Link V3
    2G DSM Link V3 $600 + shipping and paypal fees* no cable included * cables are 75 on the...
    • jersygsx
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • Wanted 2g Shot in the dark (2g Pass strut cut out)
    Need 2g strut tower to save time.
    • frosh29
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • For sale 2g 2G Mishimoto Radiator & Fan Shroud
    2G Mishimoto Radiator & Fan Shroud $200 + shipping and paypal feesYou must be registered to...
    • jersygsx
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • For sale VIRGIN 4G63 6-BOLT TURBO HEAD
    Came off a virgin stock AWD Auto 1G DMS (91), also have matching block and crank which are also...
    • The_Partout_Spot
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • For sale 1G DSM 4G63 6-BOLT TIMING COVER
    Used, see condition in photos. Buyer covers shipping / fees.
    • The_Partout_Spot
    • Updated:
    • Expires
Back
Top