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xs power 1g fmic installed, but how the hell will my bumper stay on?

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dsmoverboosted

15+ Year Contributor
217
0
Feb 26, 2006
Winnipeg,
I just finished installing my long route fmic kit and since I can't use the metal bumper (crash beam or whatever its called)the bumper is only held on by 4 bolts on the side by the tires. It seems ok for now but I don't trust the bumper held on like this since there is no support for it in the middle.

What have you 1g guys done to bolt the bumper back on with this kit?

Thanks Axe
 
ya but with the long route piping the pipes completly block where the bumper support mounted to the car.

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WOW

I have never seen the pipe route infront of the intercooler. I must live a sheltered dsm life yeah you are going to have problems getting that one to fit. :p
 
I know there are other 1g's with this kit, how did you bolt the bumper back on?:confused:
 
kinda off topic but do you have an egine bay pic. My buddy bought a car with no bumper support (guy removed front mount before sale) and we had to use zip ties, strong ones, anywhere and everywhere we could. We actually got it lookin half decent too.
 
When i did this kit i bolted to the sides like you did but also i attached the bumper in the front right by the hood release
 
Make friends with something called zip ties LOL. That is a weird IC kit, my Greddy one was like this also and its a pretty pointless design with the piping in my opinion, looks good though.
 
Once again guys the longe route kit dosnt really effect things its like .003 sec different and that aint nothing
 
twack said:
Once again guys the longe route kit dosnt really effect things its like .003 sec different and that aint nothing

I didnt say anything about how it affected performance, i said the DESIGN was pointless, but while were on topic, how is 6 feet of pipe performing the same as it being 2 1/2 feet of pipe?
 
Jeff822 said:
I didnt say anything about how it affected performance, i said the DESIGN was pointless, but while were on topic, how is 6 feet of pipe performing the same as it being 2 1/2 feet of pipe?


LOL :D i've read this discussion so many times, but i always find it interesting. Its seems as if it shouldnt be but when put in technical terms and thinking of the speed the air travels it makes sense. BUT that is what a computer using all kinds of equations and such predicts. I watched mythbusters yesterday (some kinda marathon) and a computer calculated that driving with A/C on and windows up was more fuel efficient, but the other car lasted 15 more miles. Go figure. Anyway to get back the point I'd say use the areas by the hood release and under the lights and zip-tie away.
 
personally, i wouldnt run the piping the way it is. It seems as though it would be pretty easy to modify it in order to have it run behind the intercooler. to answer your question, i have no front bumper reinforcement in my 1g. I held the bumper up using metal strapping. Just go to home depot and get some plumber's tape and you can cut it to lenght in order to make some brackets.
 
twack said:
Once again guys the longe route kit dosnt really effect things its like .003 sec different and that aint nothing

ive seen this argument and the math used doesnt really make sense. just think about it logically, do you really think it only takes .003 seconds to pressurize a 5 foot, 2.5" diameter pipe? its not gonna instantly pressurize itself as promoters of long route piping will have you believe.
 
wha? I've looked at the math and it makes perfect sense, pressurizing 5 feet of 2.5" dia pipe will take next to nothing if you're pumping enough air fast enough.. which turbos do quite nicely, I've seen a couple people who have modified their long route into short and noticed NOTHING at all, probably worse to have the turbo outlet pipe right by the exhaust mani and pick up more heat.. and I'm not promoting anything, I don't even have an fmic, don't argue with math, you can't win.
 
VanIsleDSM said:
wha? I've looked at the math and it makes perfect sense, pressurizing 5 feet of 2.5" dia pipe will take next to nothing if you're pumping enough air fast enough.. which turbos do quite nicely, I've seen a couple people who have modified their long route into short and noticed NOTHING at all, probably worse to have the turbo outlet pipe right by the exhaust mani and pick up more heat.. and I'm not promoting anything, I don't even have an fmic, don't argue with math, you can't win.

theyre whole argument is flawed because they assume a perfect environment, real life is a whole different story. like the guy said a few post up, on mythbusters the math said A/C on was more economic than windows down but in real life it was the other way around. And I am one of those people that switched from long route to short route and I DID notice the 16g spool about 3-400 rpms faster. i guess it all depends if you consider this to be a big difference or not. but then again you dont even have a FMIC so dont argue with real life experience, you can't win.
 
91etalon - good response.

Let's keep this on topic, kids. To the original poster, I would suggest looking at the various other eBay and 1g FMIC threads that have detailed pictures of exactly what you're looking for.
 
theyre whole argument is flawed because they assume a perfect environment, real life is a whole different story. like the guy said a few post up, on mythbusters the math said A/C on was more economic than windows down but in real life it was the other way around. And I am one of those people that switched from long route to short route and I DID notice the 16g spool about 3-400 rpms faster. i guess it all depends if you consider this to be a big difference or not. but then again you dont even have a FMIC so dont argue with real life experience, you can't win.

I dont believe this at all. I know personlly two people who went from long to short piping and there was no difference at all. They where a little upset.

Also you guys bad mouthing this kit, the kit cost $200 shipped now. thats what I payed. the difference in price is well worth it and the kit is awsome.
 
JayRolla said:
I dont believe this at all. I know personlly two people who went from long to short piping and there was no difference at all. They where a little upset.

Also you guys bad mouthing this kit, the kit cost $200 shipped now. thats what I payed. the difference in price is well worth it and the kit is awsome.

No ones bad mouthing the kit, i think its a great deal for $200, because even if someone doesnt like the piping they can use the extra money they saved to go short route. Back on topic, did you ever get the bumper up and and in place?
 
"My cousins sisters ex-fiances butler once went to the local walmart and backed his astrovan into this dudes car that changed his long piping to short piping and he said it made him like hella faster."

Guys, back it up with facts or don't say it at all. You can argue back and forth all you want. Until someone posts dyno sheets showing faster spoolup and higher #'s, its all hearsay.

To the OP, find or make some piping to move/get rid of the piece in the beam's way. Even if you have to spend $100 on piping, the kit was still probably an amazing deal compared to a SBR or Buschur kit. That's what I'd do. No crash beam is a bad idea for a street car.
 
if you guys want to discuss the performance issue, go to this thread: http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=239249

i plan to buy this kit myself and im curious of what the best way to keep the bumper up since I just spent a couple hours at the junkyard a couple weekends ago getting a bumper support because mine was held up with zip ties and i would rather not go that route again.
 
JayRolla said:
I dont believe this at all. I know personlly two people who went from long to short piping and there was no difference at all. They where a little upset.

Also you guys bad mouthing this kit, the kit cost $200 shipped now. thats what I payed. the difference in price is well worth it and the kit is awsome.


I did go from 3800rpms to 3500rpms in spool up time. And im not bad mouthing the kit at all. Building fast cars at low costs is what DSMs are all about. I personally went with a spearco core $200 and 2.5 aluminum piping kit w/ tbolt clamps and couplers $100, both purchased on ebay. You can either go with the $200 dollar kit or do what i did for $300. For me the extra $100 was well worth it for a nice spearco core.
 
91etalon said:
I did go from 3800rpms to 3500rpms in spool up time. And im not bad mouthing the kit at all. Building fast cars at low costs is what DSMs are all about. I personally went with a spearco core $200 and 2.5 aluminum piping kit w/ tbolt clamps and couplers $100, both purchased on ebay. You can either go with the $200 dollar kit or do what i did for $300. For me the extra $100 was well worth it for a nice spearco core.

Most likely you had a boost leak with the long route piping and when you went short route you fixed it. Giving you better spool. If you read this post right here, it states how much longer it takes to spool the turbo through the extra piping. Its very minimal.

Originally Posted by 2gGSX
-Let's say you use 2.5" intercooler piping and (exaggeration) save 5 feet of piping by going short route instead of stock, this means you just removed about 295 cubic inches of volume (pi x 1.25"^2 x 60")
-Suppose you flow 20 lbs/min (not a huge number by any means), that translates into 7579 in^3/second (20/.076 x 12^3 / 60)
This equates to you shaving off 295in^3/{7579in^3/s), or .0389 seconds off your spool time.

Even if you argue about the effect of bends in pipes or related topics, you still won't add enough time to make it significant.

I actually just received this kit tonight and im very pleased with it. Dsmoverboosted how was the install, did you have to cut any of the piping to make the kit fit?
 
The piping coming off the turbo was a tight fit but the whole kit fit without modification. I had to trim off some of my plastic bumper on the drivers side because the pipe comes outward a bit. I havent installed the upper pipe with the bov because my bov flange hasent arrived yet (dont forget you need to weld on a flange if your using anything other than a trial 50mm) but it looks like a direct fit. Oh and i would recommend putting on some jb to make beads since the pipes arn't beaded.

Also you will need to find some way to mount the top of the ic since the mounting bolt is in the middle of the ic and there is nothing there but the hood latch. I used 2 holes the headlight rested on to bolt a bar on and I drilled a hole in the middle for the ic mount if ya know what i mean. You can see the bar I used in my pic above.

Hope this helps
 
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