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xs power 1g fmic installed, but how the hell will my bumper stay on?

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dsmoverboosted

15+ Year Contributor
217
0
Feb 26, 2006
Winnipeg,
I just finished installing my long route fmic kit and since I can't use the metal bumper (crash beam or whatever its called)the bumper is only held on by 4 bolts on the side by the tires. It seems ok for now but I don't trust the bumper held on like this since there is no support for it in the middle.

What have you 1g guys done to bolt the bumper back on with this kit?

Thanks Axe
 
Make sure you go back and check the zip-ties every couple of days to make sure none of them have broken off or anything.:thumb:
 
91etalon said:
theyre whole argument is flawed because they assume a perfect environment, real life is a whole different story. like the guy said a few post up, on mythbusters the math said A/C on was more economic than windows down but in real life it was the other way around. And I am one of those people that switched from long route to short route and I DID notice the 16g spool about 3-400 rpms faster. i guess it all depends if you consider this to be a big difference or not. but then again you dont even have a FMIC so dont argue with real life experience, you can't win.

it's not flawed at all, JayRolla posted it, 20lbs/min isn't much, just look, it's all there, what kind of non perfect enviromental conditions will affect this? please elaborate.. and I saw that mythbusters, that's bull, they even said the computer wasn't very accurate, it was an estimated fuel consumption based on airflow... and even though the vehicles are the same make and model I doubt they are going to be exactly the same, not to mention the 2 different people driving them, it's not a solid experiment at all..
 
VanIsleDSM said:
it's not flawed at all, JayRolla posted it, 20lbs/min isn't much, just look, it's all there, what kind of non perfect enviromental conditions will affect this? please elaborate.. and I saw that mythbusters, that's bull, they even said the computer wasn't very accurate, it was an estimated fuel consumption based on airflow... and even though the vehicles are the same make and model I doubt they are going to be exactly the same, not to mention the 2 different people driving them, it's not a solid experiment at all..


The math doesnt even take into consideration boost pressure, all its calculating is how long it will take a turbo flowing 20lbs per minute to fill up the volume. 10 psi is not the same as 22 psi. i have yet to see a turbo go from 10 psi to 22 psi in .038 seconds. Why do you think those running t-25s dont upgrade to large FMIC set ups with large piping? if the difference was only the blink of an eye, people wouldnt advice against it. If long route piping works for you go right ahead, short route works for me so ill stick to it. If anything, it cleans up my engine bay. :D
 
Yea short route is the way to go. Ive seen some crazy bends on short route. If the bends are not smooth then a short route could even be worse than the long route because the bends are real smooth on long route. The only reason I went long route is because the kit was $200 shipped to my door with everything you need.
 
if i were you i would completely hack the shit outta the piping given in that kit.

go buy the ExtremePSI J-Pipe (the one that goes straight down between the fans for FMIC's).
then you can take that stupid long pipe that goes in front of the I/c and have that go fron the J-pipe to the drivers side of the i/c

next: use the passenger side, since it already fits back around int your engine bay, and cut it so you can make that go from the passenger side (cold) up over the tranny for short rout piping.


this should only cost you MAX another $200

then you can go talk mad shit about how you bought the cheapest I/C set and customized it yourself and its as good as any other $1000 brand name one.
 
if i were you i would completely hack the shit outta the piping given in that kit.

go buy the ExtremePSI J-Pipe (the one that goes straight down between the fans for FMIC's).
then you can take that stupid long pipe that goes in front of the I/c and have that go fron the J-pipe to the drivers side of the i/c

next: use the passenger side, since it already fits back around int your engine bay, and cut it so you can make that go from the passenger side (cold) up over the tranny for short rout piping.


this should only cost you MAX another $200

then you can go talk mad shit about how you bought the cheapest I/C set and customized it yourself and its as good as any other $1000 brand name one.

Yes you are completly right. This can and has been done, with major customizing. I will most likely do that one day, but I want to compare the long route, to short route. Me and my brother have pretty much the same set ups, but he has short route and I want to see how much of a difference there is.
 
Well so far I have had no extra lag because of this kit. The only big downfall I see with this kit is that it is based on a upward firing turbo witch is great for now but when i upgrade i will need to do some major modifications since most aftermarket turbos I have seen fire downwards (at least from what ive seen).
 
It is possible to get industrial grade zipties, they're just like plastic ones, but usally made of metal or aluminum. My buddy works for a phone company and he uses them on the job, as for where to get them... maybe a hardware store? Not too sure, but it may hold up better in the long run.
 
It is possible to use jb but you will want to scuff up the surface pretty good first so the jb has something to hold onto and dosnt run a higher risk of breaking off and going into your intake
 
before you get them welded make sure the pipes are all the right size. i know my uicp had to be cut down on both ends a bit, then more when i got my 2g Throttle body elbow, but all the other pipes were a perfect fit
 
JayRolla said:
YEa I dont want that to happen, didnt think of that. Im going to have my buddy weld them on or have the ends rolled.


Yeah JB weld isnt a good idea. You can always do what i did and get some pliers and just kinda flare out the ends of the piping. That works just as good as beads.
 
Hi, I just ordered this kit and I wanted to know if the pipes are aluminum or stainless steel. I see that the piping is long route and I was also wondering if I can use my Dejon UICP instead of the one in the kit because it already has a 1g bov flange. I'm going to be ordering one of those Ebay HKS SSQV bov's and a adapter for my 1g bov flange so hopefully I can use my 2.5 inch Dejon UICP with this kit. Thanks for your help. :talon:
 
No way is the piping stainless. For the price I was guessing aluminum all the way. I just got the kit I guess I need to inspect it better. I was positive it was aluminum. I had a buddy fab me up a 1g bov flange in alluminum. Damn I hope it is steel that would be way better.
 
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