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wtf no idle at all

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eclipse chic

Probationary Member
8
0
Dec 8, 2012
fort riley, Kansas
hey there gentlemen... so here is the deal i have scoured the forums and i have found a couple of posts that come close to my problem but not my problem exactly. so here it is.

1. when i start my eclipse it wont even hold and idle it dies completely. i have to hold the gas pedal for it to continue to run.

2. when i do hold the gas pedal down at about 2.2k rpms it starts to bog out and sound like its gonna stall but it keeps building rpms. when it hits 3.4k rpms it starts to get better but not fully. i can still hear the turbo spooling and giving boost. i know it still gives boost ### i had to drive it from my old house to my new house. (boost at 15 mph you can feel LOL)

3. ok and last but not least when i have my foot on the pedal to keep it running it shoots out black smoke and i can smell gas in the interior of the car. (its messing with my girly car scent :(. )

hope some one can help me get my little dsm on the road again. i need to smoke some hondas soon.

oh if it helps its a 96 gst. it has a t16 turbo, greddy bov, greddy gauges k and n cold air intake bigger headers (dont know what size) and 3'' piping from the headers back. please help me :(
 
Poor acceleration and running rich... seems like a boost leak or MAF issue. What are your afrs after idling for about 30 seconds?
 
Agreed with above post. Something that hasn't been mentioned I think is to check your hoses if your still running the stock sidemount intercooler. On the GSX we found a nickle size hole on the bottom pipe that comes off the turbo. The black smoke out of the exhaust is more proof that your running rich. If the smoke was a bluish color your burning oil.
 
BLT (aka) Boost Leak Test.
Even of your check engine light is your problem and its just a sensor error.. Read this link im posting anyway!
I boost leak test religiously even if i think its fine.
The point is you have to learn it at some point and there is no avoiding it.
Take you time, read thoroughly and come back to us with any questions on the test if you dont understand.


IC Pipe Tester
 
Exact same thing happen to me! check the sensor on top of the intank manifold, not sure of the exact name of it but mine came lose and that was the problem
 
He's talking about the map sensor in a 2g. You with a 1g don't have one. And its not the issue. Its only use is for the egr. Its come undone a few times on me and did diddly squat to my car.
 
He's talking about the map sensor in a 2g. You with a 1g don't have one. And its not the issue. Its only use is for the egr. Its come undone a few times on me and did diddly squat to my car.

Oh, duh LOL. Where are those OBD2 codes?! I sooo wish I had obd2 again.
 
I've ordered the steps you should follow based on the ease of each. Idle issues are usually a result of the Base Idle Set Screw (BISS), or the Idle Speed Control (ISC) / Idle Air Control Actuator (IAC). This sensor is a common fail point on these cars, and there is a guy that actually buys them and rebuilds them if you ever need a functioning one: Throttlebodys.com.

Step 1: Check your spark plug gap. If your gaps are off you will expericing stuttering / bogging under accelleration.

Step 2: Compression test. Low or no compression in one or more cylinders will cause issues with idling and with acceleration.

Step 3: Start with a Boost Leak Test (BLT). This will tell you if you have any vacuum leaks anywhere.
 
2G's don't have "MAP" sensors. Mannifold absolute pressure sensor. 2G's have a "MDP" sensor. Mannifold differential pressure sensor. And if it came "loose" which I don't see how it could since it seals with a rubber o-ring and two 10mm bolts, but if it did come loose the intake manni's plenum would have a MASSIVE vacume/boost leak. And yes, that would cause trouble.
 
2G's don't have "MAP" sensors. Mannifold absolute pressure sensor. 2G's have a "MDP" sensor. Mannifold differential pressure sensor. And if it came "loose" which I don't see how it could since it seals with a rubber o-ring and two 10mm bolts, but if it did come loose the intake manni's plenum would have a MASSIVE vacume/boost leak. And yes, that would cause trouble.

Loose as in the plug coming off, not the sensor itself from the manifold. And the hole isn't large at all. More about the size of the hole in the mbc fitting going to the wastegate.
 
Alright so here is the deal I went to her house the other day with my scanner and it came up as mass air flow sensor. We just installed the new mass air flow sensor and its still running the same way as before.
 
Please verify that there is a large diameter hose coming off of the BOV back into the intake.

Kind of thread-jacking, but brain storming here. Would a large vacuum leak right after the MAF cause the computer to throw the code?
 
Please verify that there is a large diameter hose coming off of the BOV back into the intake.

Kind of thread-jacking, but brain storming here. Would a large vacuum leak right after the MAF cause the computer to throw the code?

No. Not unless your maf pipe had a big hole in it, a cut across 1/4 way round, or fell of the inlet.

What's your definition of a large leak?
 
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