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wtf no idle at all

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eclipse chic

Probationary Member
8
0
Dec 8, 2012
fort riley, Kansas
hey there gentlemen... so here is the deal i have scoured the forums and i have found a couple of posts that come close to my problem but not my problem exactly. so here it is.

1. when i start my eclipse it wont even hold and idle it dies completely. i have to hold the gas pedal for it to continue to run.

2. when i do hold the gas pedal down at about 2.2k rpms it starts to bog out and sound like its gonna stall but it keeps building rpms. when it hits 3.4k rpms it starts to get better but not fully. i can still hear the turbo spooling and giving boost. i know it still gives boost ### i had to drive it from my old house to my new house. (boost at 15 mph you can feel LOL)

3. ok and last but not least when i have my foot on the pedal to keep it running it shoots out black smoke and i can smell gas in the interior of the car. (its messing with my girly car scent :(. )

hope some one can help me get my little dsm on the road again. i need to smoke some hondas soon.

oh if it helps its a 96 gst. it has a t16 turbo, greddy bov, greddy gauges k and n cold air intake bigger headers (dont know what size) and 3'' piping from the headers back. please help me :(
 
ok so im new thats why i posted in the newbie area LOL... what do you mean throwing cel??? and where would i find the mas to see if it is plugged in?

and where would i find the ground trace on the ecu? my ex used to work on my car i should have stayed and watched him :(
 
MAS is the electronic air metering device contained in the air intake canister where the intake hose attaches to the air filter canister. Canister should be in the engine compartment, behind the passenger side headlight. Connector should be above/around the intake hose to canister attachment on the outside of the canister.
 
Cel is check engine light(little orange en gine light). It comes on by the boost gauge. Your mas plug is the only plug going into your aircleaner. Check that. Ground trace is on the back of the ecu board. You could have a really bad boost leak, but i doubt its the maf plug. It generally wont crank without it
 
is it the group of wires hooked up to my cold air intake or is it further back then that?

ya the "cel" or check engine light (as normal people would say it is on what would that mean?

I have a SAFC-II, do you think that would have anything to do with the problem, holy moly this is seriously like so stressful thanks for trying to help me.
 
is it the group of wires hooked up to my cold air intake or is it further back then that?

ya the "cel" or check engine light (as normal people would say it is on what would that mean?

I have a SAFC-II, do you think that would have anything to do with the problem, holy moly this is seriously like so stressful thanks for trying to help me.

Get rid of that SAFC II unless you really know how to use it. Its a group of wires with a rectangular plug, only one that touches the intake. Since you have an SAFC II, it would be safe to assume you have a wideband gauge as well? If not, most definitely get rid of the SAFC II. I have heard of boost leaks causing issues like this. If you can, pull that code off of the computer. Since the car isn't technically drivable, you might have to find a friend with an OBD2 scanner (On Board Diagnostics Ver. 2). That will give you a code such as P0404 and you can cross reference that online and will come back to something like "xxxx sensor" which points to a failure. Does the CEL stay on after the car is started or is it initially off, then comes on after the car is "running"?
 
the cel stays on and I do have a wide band gauge. I tried unplugging the SAFC-II but it didnt make a difference and it just starting clicking when I try to turn it on.

is there a way to learn how to use the SAFC-II ### it was kind of expensive. but i dont want to mess up my car by playing around with it.

also do you have an idea of what censor would cause this?

besides the mas?
 
What started clicking when you unplugged the SAFC II? You'll have to do a good amount of reading and get an understanding of how the air and fuel systems work together to achieve good tune. If you could find out, what size injectors do you have and are you on the stock MAF or a GM MAF? If you have a stock MAF, that BOV needs to be recirculated.

Coolant temp sensor can cause issues with cold startups, but we have no idea as to what is causing the issue.
 
Checking for intake leaks is definitely a good first step... perhaps you've blown a intake hose loose?

Beyond that, next priority would be to get the engine code. Wouldn't go messing with the SAFC II just yet if it had previously been functioning correctly. You will need some sort of ECU code reader to get the error code(s) from the ECU. Find out what it's trying to tell you first and then go from there.

Definitely don't try to drive it anywhere. You're clearly running rich and/or not burning your fuel. This is very bad for your catalytic converter and could potentially cause a fire.
 
ok thanks guys im going to sleep for the night ill be back on 2morro while messing with the car. hope you all are awake to help me get my baby running again. :)
 
What does the car run like after it is at normal operating temp?
Meaning fully warmed up, and does it eventually idle?
 
ok so quick update my friend is coming over 2morro with his little computer thing. i checked the MAS and it is plugged in. are there any more steps i can take before he comes over with his computer thing?
 
Well you've failed to answer any of my questions along with several others' questions. :rolleyes:
 
You can fill out your profile with all your mods. A lot of the questions in this thread are asking you what you have installed, or we're finding out about stuff after the fact that we should have had to.

If you have an SAFC, do you have larger injectors, or did you just buy it because it's a common mod?

There's a lot of uncertainty at this point. Getting the CEL read would be a great start to figuring out what is causing it. This might play into your overall problem (i.e. dead front o2 sensor).
 
Ok so what i want you to do is locate your biss screw on your throttle body.

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Take a screwdriver and turn it two complete turns counterclockwise.

Then start your car and lmk what happens.
 
Ok so what i want you to do is locate your biss screw on your throttle body.

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Take a screwdriver and turn it two complete turns counterclockwise.

Then start your car and lmk what happens.

Hopefully she's able to do that, and if that works. Damn ROFL
 
ok so i adjusted the biss and got it to idle. and it idles better at operating temp. it still has that boggy poroblem and the boost is working great. took it for a drive around the block. it still has problems building rpms up. the cel is still on and if you missed it earlier my friend is coming over with his scanner. im thinking its just a bad sensor at this point. what do you guys think?
 
What boggy problem? Boost works great but the car has trouble accelerating? I think you need to tell us what the codes are when your friend checks it out. Give us code # and description please.

Does your car misfire/jerk/cutback when boosting?
 
What boggy problem? Boost works great but the car has trouble accelerating? I think you need to tell us what the codes are when your friend checks it out. Give us code # and description please.

Does your car misfire/jerk/cutback when boosting?
 
no it does back fire or anything. the rpms just dont build like they normally would. and by boggy i mean it sounds like its running out of fuel kinda. but that wouldnt make sense because my sensors tell me its running really rich. my firend had to cancel today but will come by 2morro. ill let you guys know what the codes say.
 
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