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Wow.... is all I can say.

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DeNoZZo

10+ Year Contributor
685
1
Jul 6, 2008
Waterloo, Iowa
It's been about two great weeks since I finished my 6 month engine build. It was a stock rebuild and we did all the work ourselves. Everything ran and worked great. Until last night. After dropping a date off at home, I decided to cruise around for a bit. I found an empty road and ran it through the gears. BAD MISTAKE. Missed the 2-3 shift, over-revved, now I have an engine with a spun bearing. Or at least thats what it sounds like. I didn't realize my car did not have a rev-limiter or I wouldn't be near redline. I'm guessing it doesn't because I think my car used to be an automatic. 6 months of borrowing my dads truck, 2.5k of hard earned money invested, all that time and work it was to borrow the tools, tearing it down and putting it all back together. I don't know if I can handle it all again that soon. I was just getting used to driving my own car again. It's a shame I could have easily just went home and went to bed, but instead I ruined my motor. I'm literally crying as I type this... This sucks.


ps- I'm pretty sure it's a spun rod bearing. I'll have a chance to look at it more after I get it towed home. But after I came to a stop from missing that shift, there was a loud knock, which turned into a squeech squeech knock knock sound. My oil pressure at idle was getting lower and lower the more I tried to drive it home, so eventually I parked it. Any other ideas that would give me that sound?


***UPDATE***

Pulled the oil pan tonight and found lots and lots of metal shavings. Took the cap off the number 4 rod and it was total carnage. I'm uploading pics now so you guys will be able to see the carnage. Any ideas what could have caused this? All the other rod bearings looked great with the exception of #1, which had some scratches probably from shavings. I'm guessing the over-rev maybe stretched the rod bolt or something and that bearing got out of there. Is there any thing that would make the rev-limiter not function?
 
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Just because Collin told you to be a little rough on it doesn't mean you can beat the living piss out of it, like it was never rebuilt, and wasn't fragile...




I hate to say this, but I think you deserved it. You do shit all the time and think you're invincible, and nothing bad will happen. I feel like this is a wake up call, that you need to think of the outcome before you carry out an action.
 
Just because Collin told you to be a little rough on it doesn't mean you can beat the living piss out of it, like it was never rebuilt, and wasn't fragile...




I hate to say this, but I think you deserved it. You do shit all the time and think you're invincible, and nothing bad will happen. I feel like this is a wake up call, that you need to think of the outcome before you carry out an action.

Ian you don't understand. I wasn't beating the living piss out of it. That was the first time I went WOT that night. And it was something like a simple missed shift that killed it.
 
Unless you REALLY over-revved the hell out of this engine it really shouldnt matter on one missed shift like that. Did you just neutral rev the engine or did you hit first gear?

A rebulilt engine should be as strong as, or stronger than a brand new engine if it was done right, so either something was done wrong or the engine was mechanically over-revved, as the auto/manual swap should have NOTHING to do with a revlimiter.
 
Unless you REALLY over-revved the hell out of this engine it really shouldnt matter on one missed shift like that. Did you just neutral rev the engine or did you hit first gear?

A rebulilt engine should be as strong as, or stronger than a brand new engine if it was done right, so either something was done wrong or the engine was mechanically over-revved, as the auto/manual swap should have NOTHING to do with a revlimiter.

I don't know, that was just my first thought was the rev-limiter caused it. It was neutral revved.

I was thinking since things had lasted 800 miles without any problems what-so-ever we must have done everything right.

All I know is the car is home now and I'm about to go tear into it and see what I can find. I'll keep you guys posted.
 
If you over reved its possible you just popped a rocker out of place. However usually when that happens you also tap a valve into the top of a piston.

pulled the vc and everything in the head looks good. I'm pretty sure it's in the bottom end because the oil is glittery
 
Yuk, Sounds like rebuild time. You can get a good crank for 200 or so IF you need it. DSMgraveyard has refurbished 2g rods for less than 100 and then all you need is a gasket kit. Assuming you didn't hurt the main girdle or anything. I would sugguest a new pump too if you see ANY scrapes on the internal housing.Overall you looking at less than 1000 to get her back up and a couple weeks if you need any machine work.

However I cant say much on that. I been sitting on mine for 6 months over a new crank. ( I already have all the parts needed)
 
Yuk, Sounds like rebuild time. You can get a good crank for 200 or so IF you need it. DSMgraveyard has refurbished 2g rods for less than 100 and then all you need is a gasket kit. Assuming you didn't hurt the main girdle or anything. I would sugguest a new pump too if you see ANY scrapes on the internal housing.Overall you looking at less than 1000 to get her back up and a couple weeks if you need any machine work.

However I cant say much on that. I been sitting on mine for 6 months over a new crank. ( I already have all the parts needed)

This is a freshly rebuilt motor. Only has 800 miles on it. I should be able to re-use my oil pump, gaskets, it has arp rod and main studs, and an cometic mls headgasket. My timing compenents and water pump are all new too. So it's just a matter of work? Pulling it all out and tearing it down. Then putting it all back together. I just want to pull my hair out now.
 
Change out ALL the gaskets including the cometic. You really shouldn't reuse any gaskets after they have been compressed. Why take a chance of a leak reusing old gaskets and that means the HG too.

Sorry to hear about the issue though. Don't forget to thoroughly clean out the block and all other parts including the lifters to get rid of all the bearing material.
 
I drained the oil and there weren't really any shavings, I couldn't really see any glitter either. What I did see was lots of bubbles. I'm hoping that's what I saw when I looked at the dipstick instead of glitter.

???
 
Sometimes an over rev will knock the flywheel bolts loose, which make a sound like rod knock. May want to check that out.
 
A rev limiter prevents an engine from climbing any higher than a certain rpm. If you were ready to shift into 4th from 3rd at the top of the powerband and went into 2nd at wot if I'm reading correctly, there's no way a rev limiter would be able to stop that. Missed shifts usually grenade engines.
 
^Word, but happens to everyone at least once. Shame it happened 800miles after a complete rebuild.
 
Just because Collin told you to be a little rough on it doesn't mean you can beat the living piss out of it, like it was never rebuilt, and wasn't fragile...




I hate to say this, but I think you deserved it. You do shit all the time and think you're invincible, and nothing bad will happen. I feel like this is a wake up call, that you need to think of the outcome before you carry out an action.

First of all, the action he carried out was a completely appropriate one. He found a stretch of open road and had a little fun, which is why people own performance cars. If he didn't want to have fun, he would have bought a Prius, or maybe a Taurus.

BTW, if you think banging a few gears from time to time is "beating the living piss" out of a car, you might want to go to a trackday so some of those guys can put things in perspective for you.

"I think you deserved it"? If that's all you have to say to a friend who is clearly in a difficult situation, than you should probably remain silent.

:notgood:


A rev limiter prevents an engine from climbing any higher than a certain rpm. If you were ready to shift into 4th from 3rd at the top of the powerband and went into 2nd at wot if I'm reading correctly, there's no way a rev limiter would be able to stop that. Missed shifts usually grenade engines.

He missed a shift and revved the car in neutral.

Either way, this should not kill a good bottom end. If he seriously over-revved it, especially with no load, it would have valvetrain issues before a bottom end failure.

OP, the missed shift might have been the final nail in the coffin, but clearly the bottom end had an issue and it was going to be found sooner or later. Maybe the rods or crank were out of spec, maybe you made a mistake in assembly, etc.

Your misfortune is unfortunate, but at the very least the job is much easier the second time around.

Good luck, and make sure you keep looking for the cause of the failure above all else.
 
Did you know that if you put ARP rod studs in a set of rods, you need to get the rods re-machined? I point this out because of this statement:
This is a freshly rebuilt motor. Only has 800 miles on it. I should be able to re-use my oil pump, gaskets, it has arp rod and main studs, and an cometic mls headgasket. My timing compenents and water pump are all new too. So it's just a matter of work? Pulling it all out and tearing it down. Then putting it all back together. I just want to pull my hair out now.
If you put those rod bolts in your rods without doing so, that may be the cause of your failure.

Sorry for your loss :-(

Ps. I've been through the thread about how you are supposed to be able to reuse the Cometic MLS gasket as long as you spray it with coppercote or something, but I still would never do it unless I was planning on pulling the head after every few passes either way. Not that it wouldn't work, but my engine bay is packed with A/C, P/S, and all the B/S I could fit. I just wouldn't feel comfortable say, 1000 miles from home on a reused head gasket.
 
Did you know that if you put ARP rod studs in a set of rods, you need to get the rods re-machined? I point this out because of this statement:
If you put those rod bolts in your rods without doing so, that may be the cause of your failure.

Sorry for your loss :-(

Ps. I've been through the thread about how you are supposed to be able to reuse the Cometic MLS gasket as long as you spray it with coppercote or something, but I still would never do it unless I was planning on pulling the head after every few passes either way. Not that it wouldn't work, but my engine bay is packed with A/C, P/S, and all the B/S I could fit. I just wouldn't feel comfortable say, 1000 miles from home on a reused head gasket.

I meant to say arp main and head studs. I re-used my stock rods with new stock rod bolts. And everything was completely sound up until this point, so I don't know about it being the final nail in the coffin. But you never know.
 
BTW, if you think banging a few gears from time to time is "beating the living piss" out of a car, you might want to go to a trackday so some of those guys can put things in perspective for you.

"I think you deserved it"? If that's all you have to say to a friend who is clearly in a difficult situation, than you should probably remain silent.

:notgood:/QUOTE]

When I think of a break in, I think of being gentle on the motor and letting things really settle in, and being tough on it when needed for the first 1,000 miles.


Then I'd get a lot harder on the car a little bit longer (1,250-1,500), then I'd beat on it like normal.




And the deserving part, he usually has a Superman aura around him, and his confidence is off the charts....but I didn't mean he deserves his money to be just thrown away, I mean he needed the reality check about how he needs to be more understanding of the possible outcomes from his actions.









Edit: God, I sound just like if I were his mother. :|
 
Did you know that if you put ARP rod studs in a set of rods, you need to get the rods re-machined? I point this out because of this statement:
If you put those rod bolts in your rods without doing so, that may be the cause of your failure.

Sorry for your loss :-(

Ps. I've been through the thread about how you are supposed to be able to reuse the Cometic MLS gasket as long as you spray it with coppercote or something, but I still would never do it unless I was planning on pulling the head after every few passes either way. Not that it wouldn't work, but my engine bay is packed with A/C, P/S, and all the B/S I could fit. I just wouldn't feel comfortable say, 1000 miles from home on a reused head gasket.

Just out of curiosity, why is it that ARP rod bolts require rehoning of the rods? Are ARP mains the same as well?
 
Just out of curiosity, why is it that ARP rod bolts require rehoning of the rods? Are ARP mains the same as well?

I think it's because they distort the rod cap just a little bit. Same goes for the mains with arp's. And I did have the mains line honed.
 
You also need to atleast have the rods checked when you install new oem rod bolts. The removal and installation process can put enough pressure on the rod to warp the journal.

I never did have them checked but I plastigauged it and they were all within spec.

I just tapped the old rod bolts out and tapped new ones in.

Here are the carnage pics
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