Worried about this summer.

[Kdouglas89]

I had my 2G last summer, and I replaced radiator.

I replaced thermo, and rad cap just a few weeks ago, but i'm still nervous about this TN Heat / humidity.

I have seen some people cut vents in their bumper, and I have highly considered it, but I really don't want to. I run about 210 at idle, and around 200 cruising which seems a little high. This is with my fans being locked on.

I am figuring my temps will be worse in the summer.

 

[JusMX141]

Put a cooler thermostat in the car.

The OEM cooling system works fine- most cars run too hot because the thermostat isn't circulating enough water. This is noted by the temp gauge reading hot yet the lower hose is cool as a cucumber.

 

[Kdouglas89]

Put a cooler thermostat in the car.

The OEM cooling system works fine- most cars run too hot because the thermostat isn't circulating enough water. This is noted by the temp gauge reading hot yet the lower hose is cool as a cucumber.

Why would a cooler thermo make a difference? It's running at 210, and thermo is 180. It's going to open at 160-170 just earlier correct?

 

[Rikolas]

Why would a cooler thermo make a difference? It's running at 210, and thermo is 180. It's going to open at 160-170 just earlier correct?

If it opens sooner, it will be able to cool the system earlier preventing it from reaching higher temps?

 

[ayyyalexxx]

Are you still running the OEM radiator and fan assembly?

 

[Breezio69]

Ducting

Unless it hits 100º+ and im sitting at idle for a while I'm not ever over 205º. Fans wired together on a switch (only turn them off on winter start ups) stock thermostat, stock cap, ducting between intercooler and rad at the top and bottom, and I made shrouds to draw in the air from the fog light holes to between the rad and intercooler. At idle with no wind I can stick a bag over the fog light hole and it will suck to the bumper because the rad fan draws it directly in to the rad. So in my theory, I'm guessing anything over 15+ mph the air is getting shoved in those holes and up into the rad. Ill see if I have any pics of what I did.

 

[Kdouglas89]

If it opens sooner, it will be able to cool the system earlier preventing it from reaching higher temps?

Still would not matter. Lower T-stat does not make a difference. Might as well not run a T-stat with that theory.

I am running aftermarket radiator.

I was thinking about ducting, but I am pretty mechanically retarded.

 

[Breezio69]

Here is a few pics, I don't have any uninstalled, you get the idea, they are mounted on the core support and bend around in a nice "scoop" to the other side of the fog holes.

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Painted them up with some silver

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You can see the foam insulation I used for between the intercooler and the core support at the bottom and between the headlights at the top. It seals it off pretty good for a basic $3 piece of foam. Also, the metal I used for the shrouds was just some.... forgot what gauge, but it was just small enough to cut with shears. This mod was about an hours time and less than $20

 

[ayyyalexxx]

I was also going to suggest ducting, especially with your fmic. You'd be surprised at how much it helps direct airflow to keep temps down.

 

[redgsxwing]

Nice job on the ducting. Did you just use some sheet metal to make those?

 

[fastfred]

What is your coolant mix?

 

[Dueydog]

I always use synthetic Mobil 1 that helps reduce friction, less heat and improves MPGs. Last longer as well. Cheap, easy upgrade to try. Good Luck

 

[Archer Fabrications]

I always use synthetic Mobil 1 that helps reduce friction, less heat and improves MPGs. Last longer as well. Cheap, easy upgrade to try. Good Luck

Mobile 1 sucks dick, it isnt what it used to be, race oils do what your saying though.... In the motor and bearing areas, nothing to do with the water ports or radiator unless your blowing a head gasket .

(Valvoline vr1, brad penn, amaoil dominator)

 

[miliman13]

Mobile 1 sucks dick, it isnt what it used to be, race oils do what your saying though.... In the motor and bearing areas, nothing to do with the water ports or radiator unless your blowing a head gasket .

(Valvoline vr1, brad penn, amaoil dominator)

+1, it's been discussed how Mobil 1, isn't all that. And irrelevant.
i run 70% distilled water 30% coolant.
I Also placed 2X pusher fans in front of the radiator; and only have one puller on the passenger side, also i wrapped my exhaust and even threw a sheet-metal cover on. All in total i lowered my temps by 18 degrees.

And you cant beat ducking. "quack"

 

[Archer Fabrications]

Any reason for the 70% water and not a 50/50

 

[gofer]

Why would a cooler thermo make a difference? It's running at 210, and thermo is 180. It's going to open at 160-170 just earlier correct?

You're right, sort of. The 180* t-stat will begin opening at 180* but the odds that you're using the OEM Mitsu 180* t-stat are slim so, really how good is your AutoZone 180* t-stat functioning? Justin made a good recommendation, if your CT's are ~210* and you can bare hand your lower radiator hose then your t-stat isn't doing much, if it's hot then it isn't worth replacing. I either recommend paying the dime for the OE t-stat, it's only $30 (MD315301), or if just like throwing money at the car get the Mishimoto 144* t-stat that's $50. I run the later and the hottest my CT's get is 180* and I live in the desert...

Pay attention to your coolant mix, running a higher mixture of distilled water over antifreeze will help too. The 70/30 that miliman runs is a good number, you can even go straight distilled water with a bottle of WaterWetter to prevent corrosion and have better results. Just remember to drain it and add the 50/50 mix before it starts getting cold again...

EDIT
Another issue I forgot to mention that you may consider if you're still running hot after doing the above. Most DSM's have had the 60k timing belt replacement done since the youngest 2g is 15yrs old. When the timing belt gets replaced it's also recommended that you replace the waterpump but, the problem is most don't get the OEM waterpump. They're expensive, like $100+ more than the reman'd from NAPA, but they function 100x better at low RPM which is where most DSM's have overheating issues. If you've got a reman'd waterpump from the local auto parts store you may consider biting the bullet and getting an OEM unit.

Ducting

Unless it hits 100º+ and im sitting at idle for a while I'm not ever over 205º. Fans wired together on a switch (only turn them off on winter start ups) stock thermostat, stock cap, ducting between intercooler and rad at the top and bottom, and I made shrouds to draw in the air from the fog light holes to between the rad and intercooler. At idle with no wind I can stick a bag over the fog light hole and it will suck to the bumper because the rad fan draws it directly in to the rad. So in my theory, I'm guessing anything over 15+ mph the air is getting shoved in those holes and up into the rad. Ill see if I have any pics of what I did.

Nice ducting, definitely original. You have any photos with the bumper off?

 

[Archer Fabrications]

Ive had great results with the stant 170 but might need to try that 144 cause i have a half rad now

 

[miliman13]

Any reason for the 70% water and not a 50/50

Well, water is more efficient at cooling it allows heat to disperse much faster than coolant alone. But water boils at 210; so by adding coolant which boils upwards of 300 i can stay cooler with out building to much pressure from boiling my mixture. Race guys run straight water as you know, and the Little bit coolant will also help lubricate and ect.

 

[gofer]

Here's a good read, urbansmoker. Technically, you shouldn't be running antifreeze in your coolant system at the track anyway.

WaterWetter Thermal Properties

Well, water is more efficient at cooling it allows heat to disperse much faster than coolant alone. But water boils at 210; so by adding coolant which boils upwards of 300 i can stay cooler with out building to much pressure from boiling my mixture. Race guys run straight water as you know, and the Little bit coolant will also help lubricate and ect.

Distilled water has a boiling point of 212* (at sea level) but its boiling point increases under pressure, which is 12psi (I think) on a 2g running the stock radiator cap. The boiling point increases 3* for every 1psi so it goes from 212* to 248* if you're running straight distilled water.

Get a nice 19psi radiator cap and it pushes the boiling point to ~269*. This is why it's important to have a properly functioning waterpump that can maintain proper flow at lower RPM.