Wont start unless I press the gas, after T-belt job

[Telltell]

Hey guys. Thanks in advance. I did a Timing belt/ Water pump replacement on my 2G N/T and am having some problems. I also changed my radiator.

At first when we finished the T-belt job, we started it up for a very short while and it seamed fine. At this point we noticed a crack at the top tank of the radiator, so we replaced it.

After the radiator replacement, we started it up and it seamed kind of sputtery. Then we turned it off and on a couple of times. At one point the car just died. Then it got to the point to where it wont start unless i press the gas while turning the key. So if i pressed the gas while turning the key it would turn on, if i pressed it so that RMP stayed at or above 1k, the sputtering went away significantly. If i let go of the gas though, the car turned off.

At this point, we checked the ignition coil and the resistances were all in good range. We then proceeded to redo the timing belt just in case we left it wrong. We put in a new t-belt tensioner and set the timing marks on the camshaft sprockets dead-on perfect.

Now we start it up again and the same thing. The car wont start unless we press the gas. If we press it and have the rpms at or above 1k, the car seams good, just with a barely noticable sputtering/shaking. If i let go of the gas, the car dies.

At this point checking the Check Engine Light, it gave us a code 43 (with the key dance) and according to 2gnt.com it has to do with the ignition coil. I check the ignition coil and sure enough some of the resistances are off the allowed range. So this ignition coil is bad. So after the first tbelt job, the ignition coil was good, and now after the t-belt redo, its bad. what the heck right?

Anyone got any ideas of whats going on, what could it be, or what i could do?

Thanks a lot in advance guys. Your'e awesome.

 

[#40Fan]

43 could also be a missfire code. Check for vacuum leaks.

 

[Telltell]

hey thanks. is this what youre talking about and is that the best way to do it?: http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/253035-checking-vacuum-leaks.html

Also, any other input will be appreciated thanks a lot!

 

[#40Fan]

You're asking someone who hates to read, to read something to make sure that you are doing what you need to do to check for a vacuum leak? I know, I am being an ass. A leak that will do what you are stating will be load and easily heard, if it in fact is a leak. A load "hiss" or sucking sound.

When you changed the timing belt, I am willing to bet that you jacked the crap out of that motor to get the front mount out. Probably why you broke the radiator.....right? Very possible that you pulled a vacuum hose off while doing so or even smashed the MAP sensor against the firewall. Take a good look over your engine bay. I am sure that something will eventually stand out and you will hit yourself on the head and say "doh".

 

[400hp93talon]

You probably have the timing off a couple teeth thats where i would start its probably not a vaccum leak it wouldnt die most likely just have a rough or high idle but wouldnt die.

 

[i_nick_2005_i]

Just for the record. When I let my 420A sit for a week or longer, then try to start it.....it just turns over and over, unless I push the gas pedal all the way down while turning over. I'm not sure why it does it, but I'm assuming it's because the fuel lines aren't primed and it's taking awhile for the fuel to re-circulate into the lines. This may not be your problem, but if it is, then I'd say your fuel pump is crapping out and it's a coincidence. Anyone else may chime in and let me know the real reason, but that's what I'm guessing. Only a guess, but if you can figure out why my car does it after sitting awhile, then you may find out what your problem is.......

 

[Telltell]

thanks for the input guys. I just checked the timing, and its dead-on so that's not it.

I checked out the engine bay pretty good, and everything looks good. The MAP sensor seamed fine, and i couldn't find any pulled hoses. I'll be checking out under the car also see if there is anything pulled or something there.

Any more suggestions are surely appreciated. Thanks a lot guys.

 

[Dark DSM]

Just for the record. When I let my 420A sit for a week or longer, then try to start it.....it just turns over and over, unless I push the gas pedal all the way down while turning over. I'm not sure why it does it, but I'm assuming it's because the fuel lines aren't primed and it's taking awhile for the fuel to re-circulate into the lines. This may not be your problem, but if it is, then I'd say your fuel pump is crapping out and it's a coincidence. Anyone else may chime in and let me know the real reason, but that's what I'm guessing. Only a guess, but if you can figure out why my car does it after sitting awhile, then you may find out what your problem is.......

priming the fuel lines would already be accomplished upon start up, usually on a properly working fuel system the lines should be pressurized for at least half an hour at most............ And if there was a vacuum leak, it wouldnt require you to press the pedal to start, bc you already would have the air needed to start the motor. I would start by checking the fuel filter, and fuel pump efficiancy, (flowing well). If thats not the case, check your sensors, the main four sensors, (map, crank, cam, and throttle position sensor) chances are one of them may be dying on you. I wouldnt want to say anything pretaining to the ECU, but dont rule it out either.... Thats just some possible areas for you to start with.

 

[Telltell]

Hey dark kid, thanks a lot for your suggestion. i will most definitely check that stuff out as soon as i can. Thanks

 

[RoninEclipse2G]

You did mention that the coil was bad, have you replaced it yet?

Another issue I'm noticing is that you said that you changed the radiator. Did you burp the coolant after filling the system? If you didn't burp the coolant there's probably an air bubble stuck in the Tstat housing that can freak out the Coolant temp sensor. When that happens it can throw off the fuel trims drastically and make it near impossible to start the car and get it running. Coupled with a coil that's not quite right it might be your issue. I've seen coils that were out of spec keep going (I ran with one like that for almost 2 years) but when combined with another issue it just can't do the job.

 

[Telltell]

Thanks Ronin'. I'm not sure what you mean by "burping". If you mean let the engine run with thermostat cap off for a while and then filling it again, yes. I did that. But ill try again to make sure.

About the coil:

I haven't changed the coil, its was only just a little bit off specs. So I'm keeping it for now, cus i spoke to this mechanic and he says that different manuals give different specs, and mine was not that much off this particular spec anyway. So for now, im keeping it.

About the Sensors:

I chekced the throtle and it was good. CHilton's only says how to check the harness for the crank and cam sensors (and not how to check the sesnors themselves, not MAP either).

I've checked the harnesses and they weregood. Anybody know how to check the sensors themselves (MAP, Cam, Crank)? Also the PCM?

Thanks guys