Won't start! PLEASE HELP!

[Dewayne Waldron]

I've recently built a 93 GS Turbo w/ newly rebuilt head w/ all BC internals, stock cams, bigger turbo, FMIC and piping, Evo 560 injectors, Apex SAFC2, and all the other usual goodies. It's timed perfectly, getting fuel and spark, and the cas is plugged up correctly. It cranks well but dosen't seem to want to start. Anyone have any suggestions? Please! I'm going nuts and dI need my car back ASAP!

 

[buryurfear14]

I'm assuming, short of any machining, you did this all yourself? Sounds like it could be something small that's causing a big problem. First, is the car trying to fire at all or is it just turning over as if it had no fuel or spark? That answer alone could narrow things down a bit. Could be as simple as a massive air leak. Double and triple check the car to make sure everything is hooked up and anything that seals has a good seal.

Edit: also check compression and fuel pressure.

 

[Dewayne Waldron]

It's getting good spark and as far as I can tell It is flowing fuel normally, A buddy and myself have both checked over the motor to make sure I hadn'd missed anything, everthing is properly sealed. I'm working on the compression check. It's gotta be something small and stupid.

 

[IE_DSM]

When you put the timing on cylinder 1 was TDC right? Seems like it is off timing to me from the sound of it.

 

[measy90tsi]

Yea man. u have to tell us is it trying to start at all. or just cranking over. i had those same problems. but its usually something small

 

[BIRDCLAWTSi]

do you have a harness in line for the safc or is it spliced in? check all of your wiring/ connectors. pull plugs and see if they are wet with fuel,did your timing jump?

 

[Dewayne Waldron]

The timing is set perfectly, I rechecked it again last night, #1 TDC., The SAFC was hard wired and I've went back over that as well. The Fuel injectors are soaking the sparkplugs. I know its nothing to do with the fuel. I'm wondering what the chances are that maybe there was still some shavings inside the head that causing something to stick. I'm going to lose it in the next couple of days trying to figure out what the hell is going on.
It dosn't try to start, just cranks kinda fast-no compression

 

[Dewayne Waldron]

I've done all I know except putting air pressure on the motor to hopefully source out the leak. Could someone explain to me how this is done.

 

[BIRDCLAWTSi]

do you have spark? i see that you said your plugs are fuel soaked.

 

[ilco187]

is the cas 180 off.

 

[Dewayne Waldron]

no, everything is hooked up and working properly. I've learned that I'm leaking a massive amount of air somewhere and I'm trying to figure out how to pressureize the motor to see where it is leaking.

 

[SrKegler]

No compression is the problem. Recheck the timing. Do another compression check and let us know the readings.

 

[Dewayne Waldron]

yeah, I know this. It's not the timing. I need someone to explain to me how I pressurize the motor with an air compressor to find dout where the air is escaping.:confused

 

[#40Fan]

You can tape off the throttle body, poke a small hole in the tape, and use an air hose to lightly blow air into the intake.

From the sounds of it though, your injectors are being forced open too much and dumping way to much fuel. Pull the fuel rail, disable the coil, and crank it over. See if the injectors are pumping too much. If so, then pull the plugs, blow air down the holes to clear out the gas, remove fuel line from injector rail, and disable the fuel pump. Crank the motor over with everything unhooked. Should clear enough of the gas out. Then fix the injector problem.

 

[Dewayne Waldron]

how would this fix the compression problem? There is 0 and 20 on 3 and 4. There has got to be a massive air leak. The block, the head gasket or something.

 

[ilco187]

How To: Boost leak tester for $5.02 - evolutionm.net

make a boost leak tester.

i bet the valves are bent, air is escaping through the exhaust from bent exhaust valves.

 

[#40Fan]

how would this fix the compression problem? There is 0 and 20 on 3 and 4. There has got to be a massive air leak. The block, the head gasket or something.

Since this is the first time I saw any compression readings, what I said can be thrown out the window.

If the timing is correct, like you stated a few times now, just pull the head and get it over with.

 

[Dewayne Waldron]

valves, pistons and everything in between should be in perfect condition. It is a brand new head gasket and the head has been completely built. before I tore the motor down I had damn near perfect compression. Maybe I somehow messed the head gasket up putting the head on. Or possibly the valves are sticking. The valves were bent and in very ruff shape before the tear down and rebuild but at least it would start before.

 

[#40Fan]

before I tore the motor down I had damn near perfect compression. Maybe I somehow messed the head gasket up putting the head on. Or possibly the valves are sticking. The valves were bent and in very ruff shape before the tear down and rebuild but at least it would start before.

Can't have near perfect compression with bent valves.

So lets see....

Either the cams are off which could have bent a valve. You will need to pull the head.

Valves are getting stuck in the valve guides. You will need to pull the head.

Someone forgot the piston rings in 3 and 4 (compression would still be higher). You will need to pull the head.

Head gasket got screwed up in the install. You will need to pull the head.

Don't take any of this wrong, but do you see where this is going?

Working as a mechanic there are times that I could have had a car fixed a whole lot sooner if the customer would have given me the whole story of what happened to their vehicle from the get go. So, lets start from the beginning.

What happened to the motor originally that you tore it down and had it rebuilt? Don't omit anything! Even the smallest detail could help diagnose the problem.

 

[steve]

Did you drain the HLA's before you installed them in the head? If they are pumped up the valves might not close.

 

[Dewayne Waldron]

ok the timing belt broke after a hard boost, bent all the valves. The block had already been built by this point. I checked the compression of my motor before that happend and it was perfect which is why I don't believe there is anything wrong with the block or pistons. I had the head machined and built the valve train. How do you drain the HLA's and what would cause the valves to stick if that is the case. I've been trying to pressurize the motor to see where it is leaking but can't seem to figure out exactly how this is done.

nothing is off.

 

[steve]

How do you drain the HLA's and what would cause the valves to stick if that is the case.

The procedure for installing the Lash Adjusters (HLA's) has you dunk them in a container of oil and fill them up with oil, pressing the internal valve down with a pin/rod to allow any air to escape. After they are primed with oil they want you to empty them of oil, releasing any inside with the pin before installing them in the head.

The job of the HLA is to take up the slack while supporting the roller rocker that actuates the valves. If they are pumped up with oil they can be too high and causing the rocket to push down on the valve even when your on the base of the cam and keep the valve open.

This all assumes that whomever rebuild the head changed out any damaged guides and all damaged valves.

You need to pull the rocker cover and start inspecting the valve train.

 

[Dewayne Waldron]

damn, I never thought of that. All guides, valves, springs, retainers, and keepers have been replaced with brain crower. stock lash adjusters. I've never thought of messing with them.

 

[Dewayne Waldron]

how do I tell if my HLA's are not working properly?

 

[Dewayne Waldron]

OK, here's what I've discovered. None of the valves are seating properly. That's where my compression is escaping. It was machined and built. I don't understand why this is.