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wont go over 6000rpm???

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faulkner

Proven Member
191
1
Apr 22, 2013
spring lake, Michigan
hi i just joined forums. just sold my 95 talon esi for a 95 eclipse gst. big difference. okay i let it warm up before i take it out, i go through first normal shift to second and mash it. when i hit boost it screems till about 55-6000rpms than it just gives out and the whole car shakes like when you clutch and miss a shift. i have no idea why. only thing i do know is my bov line that goes to my intake manifold is shared with my manuall boost controler and needs to be rerouted to have its own line. but not sure thats the problem any solutions??
 
Just re routed my bov the right way. But when I do a second even third gear pull my car gives out at 6000rpms like when you miss a shift on a full pull or hit the governor? Anyone point me in the right direction??
 
Not sure its a fuel cut I don't have wideband or esmlink yet though. Here's everything recently done


New pistons
ARP head studs
Evo 560cc injectors
Evo lifters
New heads
Eagle rods
Evo III 16g turbo
4" turbo back apexi exhaust
Digital air to fuel ratio and boost gauge
ACP stage 2 clutch
Evo carbon fiber hood
Front mount intercooler

So should I not drive it without doing wideband and esmlink?

Claims 24psi on 93 octane
 
Not sure its a fuel cut I don't have wideband or esmlink yet though. Here's everything recently done


New pistons
ARP head studs
Evo 560cc injectors
Evo lifters
New heads
Eagle rods
Evo III 16g turbo
4" turbo back apexi exhaust
Digital air to fuel ratio and boost gauge
ACP stage 2 clutch
Evo carbon fiber hood
Front mount intercooler

So should I not drive it without doing wideband and esmlink?

Claims 24psi on 93 octane
Yes that would be fuel cut.
You need dsmlink! and wideband is good, dont floor it and i wouldn't drive it unless required.
 
I have no dsmlink or esmlike or wideband. That I'm aware of just got the car. Where would my esmlink be?
 
Lol no need go that high on a 16g it's a small turbo for that high of an rpm range honestly 6,000 rpm is time to shift LOL. Buy a wideband and ECMTuning, Inc. before you blow up your car.
 
Alright will do. Thanks

What should I crank the boost down too?

One more thing. I was told the car was tuned by a shop in Illinois and has launch control. Would that have anything to do with it cutting out
 
Well you shouldnt be running those injectors, do you still have the 450cc you can put back in until you get a tuning device? Your just dumping fuel, I would keep boost about 12psi stock until you get a tune. Better safe then sorry so you won't blow it up not knowing the what the car is doing under wot pulls could cause alot of damage then good.Try save up for aem wideband so you know what your a/f ratio is. $199.
 
Thats a bit of work done to not have any monitoring or tuning solutions.

Another good wideband "all inclusive" kit is the innovative MTX-L, you can support a vendor and get one for $179 @ extreme psi.... or get one off eBay for $155-160 all day long. Comes with software and a cable for your pc to log and tune with... aem does as well, just costs more.

But dont drive it till you get one, or if you do drive it dont get on the skinny pedal. You're just asking to rebuild it if you go hard on it.
 
Alright and no I don't have the original ones. But I only have a restricted license right now so I'm not really driving.

What else do I need after the wideband
 
Google Innovative MTX-L , thats what you need. The link you posted is only a replacement sensor.... not a wideband GAUGE


To put it in lamens terms, your going to be ripping that pos air/fuel ratio gauge and replacing it with this gauge. It gives you very accurate readings and doesnt just have lights blinking back and forth. You can also use the software of the one I mentioned above to have a datalogger.... to log wot runs and tune your shiz...

Hope this explains what you need to be looking for
 
yes no boost leaks. but i do not have wideband or ecmlink. i was told it was tuned and ready to go but if so this shouldnt be happening. i think i have a normal stock ecu also..not eprom.
 
Dont double post please. If you wanna see take out the ecu and take a picture we can tell you if it's stock or not or if it has a tuneable ecu setup. Please stop racing it around town before you blow it up if your unsure. Just take a bunch of pics of your car and your ecu and we can see what you got and get you fixed up right. I hate see another thread I threw a rod out the block why?... On a side note save up sell a ps3 or xbox or something get a wideband so can start tuning and properly have your car running. It's not a racecar until you get a wideband..
 
This content for the pictures is currently unavailable facebook says, try host them on a site and link them in the forums instead of external links. Doesnt have to have an e on the ecu they make non eprom ecu's with ecmlink and sometimes switch covers for the ecu.
 
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