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Witch cams ????

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DSM PERFORMANCE

15+ Year Contributor
100
0
Jan 3, 2005
Montreal, QC, Canada
I will install soon a BR Stage 3 complete motor (Oh yeeah baby), and I'm not sure witch cams to put, my car is a STREET car, occasional RR and occasional Drag, I have GT-11 (500HP rated turbo) + Magnus Intake manifold + Evo3 Ex. manifold ported, I MAY upgrade to BR575 or something 600-650HP rated but not sure, I've got everything to support that... so my question is : should I go with 264/264 for torque or 264/272 for more power, I'm afraid to loose some torque and I want to keep spool-up time at his best, but I'm not sure if the 264/272 will allow that ?
 
There are already enough threads on which cams you should get... Use the search button.
 
Well, if you really are shooting for 500-650 hp like you say, you need to realize your streetability is already pretty shot, so why not go with the 272/272 setup?
 
I heard those make for a fast broomstick ( :laugh: Witch :laugh: cams)
 
dsm10sec said:
There are already enough threads on which cams you should get... Use the search button.

Don't do that to me, you send this to almost each people and you are a 4 months new member, I know the search button, and I did know DSM, I just want friendly advise on something I've difficulty to cut. I want to do the right thing first. If you are not happy get out of my thread.
 
I MAY upgrade to BR575 or something 600-650HP rated but not sure

The low end difference wont matter alot on larger turbos..

The dyno plots are up on this site for the FP1 and the FP2's along side HK$ 264's and 272's same engine same dyno.... post 87

The FP2's have a low end curve around 100rpm below the 272's but make up for it later.
The FP1's down low are so close its a line on a line with the 264's down low but have a higher upper rpm power band thtn the 264's

The low end, idle (no lope good vaccum)... are all really close. No turbo cams are really lopey...

I'd just look at the most cams compaired on as level of a playing feild as possible in regards to making the decision.

I'd have loved to have seen crowers on the same dyno!
 
DSM PERFORMANCE said:
Don't do that to me, you send this to almost each people and you are a 4 months new member, I know the search button, and I did know DSM, I just want friendly advise on something I've difficulty to cut. I want to do the right thing first. If you are not happy get out of my thread.

All the facts are out there... It's based on YOUR preference not anyone elses.
I put that on every post? Why don't you list them for me. I'm sure you won't find 145 "use the search button" posts.
 
MNGSX said:
I heard those make for a fast broomstick ( :laugh: Witch :laugh: cams)
That was funny. I was wondering if somebody was going to jump on that.

Back on topic, another vote for FP2s. From what research I've seen on them, they look pretty promising.
 
I just finished installing a set of FP2's last night on my 95gsx with DSMlink, 1g head, FP green, 880's, etc etc, and I can honestly say these cams are unbelievably streetable. At idle they are hardly lumpy at all, vacuum is down to only 15inhg from 19inhg according to my logged GM 3bar map sensor on DSMlink to give you an idea. During cruise I honestly have to say the car actually feels BETTER than it did on 1g 5spd cams, it definately is unbelievable how the car feels in comparison. As for WOT, well I think we all know how that one goes. I gained about 2lb/min of airflow (43.7lb/min on 22.6psi on a 46* night) up from 42lb/min max on a 20* night with 23.7psi being pushed. These cams definately make the car just want to keep pulling and pulling all the way to redline. I too had heard great reviews about them so I figured for a full 100 dollars less than HKS's they were worth a shot and sure enough they idle better than my friends 264/272's and gave me no noticable loss in power during cruise and gobs of extra flow uptop. I personally would recommend them.
 
MNGSX said:
I heard those make for a fast broomstick ( :laugh: Witch :laugh: cams)
MNGSX I guess you are just joking though remember DSM PERFORMANCE is from canada,a French canadian so be nice! He's a cool guy who has a heart for DSM's and their owners. Peace, Mark
 
The FP2's dont have a ton of loss down low when driving around town, I cant really tell a difference. With the price they are one of the best choices on the market now. I love mine, even with my little 14b. They idle for me around 14 inches of mercury. I would recommend them to anyone. --dave
 
MNGSX said:
No turbo cams are really lopey...
You've obviously never heard Crower stage 3's, I have them and they lope like crazy anywhere below 1000rpm's but I don't mind it. I had someone at a gas station the other day walk up and ask me if my car was missing, I laughed and I said no it's the cams, LOL. Then he asked if I had nitrous, I told him I didn't need it. Damn ricers. Either way the Crowers are badass. I've had HKS 272's and I like my Crower stage 3's alot better then the 272's, picked up some more power with them also.
 
I grew up on what the kids today call "all motor" engines. Try a 455 rocket olds W30 with a huge roller cam or a high compression 350 with a tunnel ram and a huge cam...


The cutlass the olds motor was in would shake over an inch at the front springs at idle and ate a muncie trans, two TH350's then we finally built the heck out of a TH400 and ran a 3500 stall converter.....

The DSM crower stg 3 are 196 / 198 at .050. I :confused: on the centerlines http://www.crower.com/cat/import/mitsu/camshafts.shtml

The FP2 are 212/212 at .050 I know the centerlines.. As well as .050 valve events.

If you want lope you can just degree in the FP's different. Like more overlap etc... But why?

I think its just a lesser cam design causing lope. Comp seems to be more helpfull in actually giving out the needed info to make a comparison. Like a real cam card.
 
sweet97 said:
MNGSX I guess you are just joking though remember DSM PERFORMANCE is from canada,a French canadian so be nice! He's a cool guy who has a heart for DSM's and their owners. Peace, Mark

Most sane people I know like to laugh and don't take everything personally... If I do something silly and someone makes a funny about it... Guess what I laugh too because humor is good for you.
 
ams cam test is by far the best way we can actually tell with a mildly modded car when they can actually do.....if u want torque 264'264...if u want more power period....go with the 272'272 its the best choice for anyone who is going for that all out street car that can still rip on the streets...as i did i love the cams...and who buys cams to have ur car idle good....hell i bought them so that way people would know i have cams...it idles between 800-900 and has a nice lope to it....I LOVE IT.... :dsm:
 
MNGSX said:
I grew up on what the kids today call "all motor" engines. Try a 455 rocket olds W30 with a huge roller cam or a high compression 350 with a tunnel ram and a huge cam...


The cutlass the olds motor was in would shake over an inch at the front springs at idle and ate a muncie trans, two TH350's then we finally built the heck out of a TH400 and ran a 3500 stall converter.....

The DSM crower stg 3 are 196 / 198 at .050. I :confused: on the centerlines http://www.crower.com/cat/import/mitsu/camshafts.shtml

The FP2 are 212/212 at .050 I know the centerlines.. As well as .050 valve events.

If you want lope you can just degree in the FP's different. Like more overlap etc... But why?

I think its just a lesser cam design causing lope. Comp seems to be more helpfull in actually giving out the needed info to make a comparison. Like a real cam card.
Good for you, I grew up around 8 second street cars, who gives a crap. BTW I got a "real" cam card with my crowers. I didn't say anything about the FP2's, only my experience with my Crowers. Overlap is NOT what you want so why would you adjust them for more?
 
ryanman said:
Good for you, I grew up around 8 second street cars, who gives a crap. BTW I got a "real" cam card with my crowers. ?

That is great but when I have asked for specs from crower I got little response or I cant tell you.. If I dont know specs.. I dont do no buying. As for the 8 sec street cars did you actually help build them? if so don't you think the cams are a little differently designed as far as duration and centerline than turbo car cams...


ryanman said:
I didn't say anything about the FP2's, only my experience with my Crowers. Overlap is NOT what you want so why would you adjust them for more?

That WAS my POINT. Also why then do you like your lope as in the first post?

These are the numerically biggest cams I have seen for 4G63s as far as lift and duration. http://www.cranecams.com/?show=newProduct&id=8

Does'nt mean they perform better.


http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=161224&highlight=Nitro+Grind
 
MNGSX said:
That is great but when I have asked for specs from crower I got little response or I cant tell you.. If I dont know specs.. I dont do no buying. As for the 8 sec street cars did you actually help build them? if so don't you think the cams are a little differently designed as far as duration and centerline than turbo car cams...




That WAS my POINT. Also why then do you like your lope as in the first post?

These are the numerically biggest cams I have seen for 4G63s as far as lift and duration. http://www.cranecams.com/?show=newProduct&id=8

Does'nt mean they perform better.


http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=161224&highlight=Nitro+Grind

boy talk about a backfire.. when i posted the nitro grinds i was being a smart ass and refering to a cam from the 60's ground for ford 427 cammers being run in topfuel.
had no idea they still had a nirto grind series...
 
Its a Nitrous Grind like N20 not a Nitro as in Nitromethane...
 
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