wire tuck help

[1G9S9T7]

I am in the process of doing a wire tuck on my 97 gst with a 6 bolt swap. My intentions are to make this engine look as if it were the factory engine. I started relocating most of the wires behind the intake manifold that were originally bundled together on top of the engine. I was basically interested in seeing some up close shots of how everyone ran their wires (i.e. coil plug, mdp sensor, ignition transistor, the cam harness if 6 bolt swapped etc.). Most of the shots I have found on here just show the whole finished project. I wanna see shots of the wire paths. Just looking for ideas so I can finish or improve mine. I seen engine bay pics on here where it appears as if the injector wire plugs are gone and I was curious to see how that was done as I can't figure out a good way to do it. If anybody has any ideas, suggestions, or up close detailed pix of wire routes and paths, I wanna hear or see them.

 

[cabot2g]

I turned my injectors so the plugs faced down and ran the harness under the rail.

 

[EclipseOwner95]

I mounted the Transistor, and the Injector Box inside the car underneath the dash. I ran the O2 sensor out the driver side of the dash, through the fender well to the front of the car. I know my tuck is a 1g, but its close enough to the same thing. If you have any more questions you can PM me.

Here is the entire harness, this large segment comes out of the center hole behind the dash.

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Here is a close up of the harness. The plugs are as followed. 4 Injectors, Coil Pack, CAS, TPS, Coolant Temp ECU, Coolant Temp Gauge. These wires were of course measured, checked, double checked, and triple checked before getting loomed and heat shrunk.

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The knock sensor is so close to the hole in the firewall that I ran it outside of the large loom by itself, but it still exits the same hole in the firewall and plugs in in the stock location.

I also tucked my chassis harness this route, but this is what I was referring to for the O2 sensor. ( Not sure if your tucking your chassis harness as well. I also went back and loomed these wires as well, these were just mock up pictures )

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O2 Sensor & Headlight Plug

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Here is the routing for the engine harness.

I used an adel clamp to secure that bundle on the stud for the intake manifold, the throttle body was not on the car at this time so the TPS plug is just looped over the fuel rail, obviously it would plug into the TPS.

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I ran the injectors up from underneath the intake manifold.

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I know this picture sucks and is hard to see, but you can see where the wires come out of the firewall and the loom on the engine harness begins.

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Hope this helps you, and if you have any questions feel free to PM me.

 

[jpmxrider489]

Looks good. I want to do a fuse box relocation but i suck at electrical.

 

[cabot2g]

EclipseOwner95 where did you get your loom?

 

[EclipseOwner95]

EclipseOwner95 where did you get your loom?

McMaster Carr - McMaster-Carr

Search : Expandable Mesh Sleeving, and go to the " Sleeving " option, and then " Expandable Mesh Sleeving "

I got the Nylon sleeving, but if I were to do it again I'd go with the Polyester, the Nylon was very hard to work with.

 

[jdodds]

Its listed as expandable mesh sleeving on this link. Pretty much the same stuff he used but possibly at a better price. I buy it by the 100ft/50ft spool for wire tucks.

http://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-cable-sleeving/=h9x0v2

This is a link to the actual manufacturer of the sleeving. Quality stuff in my opinion.

http://www.techflex.com/

 

[EclipseOwner95]

Its listed as expandable mesh sleeving on this link. Pretty much the same stuff he used but possibly at a better price. I buy it by the 100ft/50ft spool for wire tucks.

McMaster-Carr

This is a link to the actual manufacturer of the sleeving. Quality stuff in my opinion.

Techflex Braided Sleeving Solutions

The McMaster link you provided goes exactly where I told him to go

And 50-100ft is complete overkill, especially since you will need several different sizes. I got 20 feet of 3 different sizes and I had leftovers of all 3 sizes.

 

[jdodds]

The McMaster link you provided goes exactly where I told him to go

And 50-100ft is complete overkill, especially since you will need several different sizes. I got 20 feet of 3 different sizes and I had leftovers of all 3 sizes.

ah I seem to have missed that post. I bought it in bulk because Ive used it on more than one car and rewired everything in my dsm from front to back. In the end, spools end up being much cheaper than buying precut sections and having the chance of running out. I didnt check prices on the straight black stuff but at 20-30 bucks per spool of the flexo FR stuff, it was a pretty good buy.

I would also recommend using adhesive lined shrink tubing as it is much easier to terminate the sleeving. plus you wont need to worry about it slipping off if you need to mess with the harness much. If the OP would like, I can make a little writeup on how I rewired my engine harness.

 

[atownturbo]

The McMaster link you provided goes exactly where I told him to go

And 50-100ft is complete overkill, especially since you will need several different sizes. I got 20 feet of 3 different sizes and I had leftovers of all 3 sizes.

What sizes did you get? I'm in the process of a mini tuck/rewire. http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/art...g/364498-rerouting-engine-wiring-harness.html do you think I could get away with the 10 feet or should I just man up and get the larger one?

 

[EclipseOwner95]

What sizes did you get? I'm in the process of a mini tuck/rewire. http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/art...g/364498-rerouting-engine-wiring-harness.html do you think I could get away with the 10 feet or should I just man up and get the larger one?

I got 20 feet of 1/2 ID and 20 feet of 3/4 ID, and 10 feet of 1&1/4 ID. I'd just get 2 10ft sections just to be sure. Would suck to be in the middle of the project and not have enough to finish, and its not that expensive.

 

[atownturbo]

Ok sweet thanks, by the way your bay is pretty clean.

 

[EclipseOwner95]

Ok sweet thanks, by the way your bay is pretty clean.

Thanks, those pictures are from before the car was finished too. Heres a newer shot of the bay once everything was done.

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[atownturbo]

Damn

 

[rhtwng2]

WOW nice clean look...I just might have to look into cleaning up the engine with this setup

 

[EclipseOwner95]

WOW nice clean look...I just might have to look into cleaning up the engine with this setup

It definitely cleans up the car a ton, but it’s seriously a lot of work. My friend and I easily have over 60-70 hours wrapped up in the entire "tuck" project. From the measuring, fitting, cutting, soldering, mounting, chasing wires, cutting out unnecessary wires etc, etc. It's no small task, but totally worth it when it’s done.

 

[jdodds]

Hes right about how long it takes if youre going that far. To give you an idea of how many wires were removed, I weighed all the scrap wiring I had leftover after I finished and it came out to be a little over 17lbs. That was throughout the entire car though. Also, I used some different sizes of sleeving. I used 1/8", 1/4" 3/8", 1/2", and 3/4". I kinda liked the look it gives when its expanded a little and shows the wires inside to give the harness a touch of color.

Previous version of the rewire but you get the idea.

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[evileagleawd]

Does anyone know where we can get new connector pins? Male and Female? I don't want a pig tail. Looking to eliminate any solder points in between the sensors and the ecu.

 

[1G9S9T7]

I like all these ideas. I never thought to turn the injectors down. What's probably the best thing to wrap these wires with like something that protect them from the heat but is both easy to work with and looks good. I am gonna redo the whole harness in the engine bay to make it both almost invisible but looks factory. I have a 1g intake manifold, will I need to shorten those injector wires to make them work with the injectors rotated down? Thanks for all the help. I didn't think I would get this much support.

 

[ShadyGST]

Looking good, keep up the good work!