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Wilwood clearance issue

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GrimmyReaps

Probationary Member
9
0
Dec 10, 2012
San Antonio, Texas
Okay I been having trouble getting the driver side brakes to stop scraping, there is a clearance issue I've tried all the combo of shims i could think of. the passenger side is okay. Anyone have any idea what could cause this problem? Shouldn't the amount of shims be the same on both sides? If you need me to explain further ask.
 
No they are talking about a ebrake conversion and changing the rear brakes. I have a slight scrap when I rotate the rotor. I just can't seem to get rid of it. Idk if I should just drive till its gone. I don't want to do that since I spent over a G on these brakes. Has anyone ran across this problem and found a shim setup that works. As I said the passenger side is perfect. Could an underlying problem cause this?
 
Yea the pads are scraping on the rotor. And it varies depending on the placement of the shims. I got it down to a slight scrap. The wheel turns freely. It does not scrap the whole time just one specific spot really.
 
New rotors? Bled all the brakes? I'm used to brakes having a slight scraping since pads aren't exactly on a return spring. They just kinda hang out until piston force is acted against them

Where are these shims going exactly?
 
It does not scrape the whole time just one specific spot really.

Make sure the hub is clean of any debris under the rotor, the hub assembly is secured to the knuckle properly with all 3 bolts and then recheck rotor runout with all the lugs on using a dial indicator.
 
Nherron. The shims are going between the hub ears and the caliper mount. And another set on the the caliper mount between the mount and the caliper. As well as spacers.
 
Delta. I was thinking runout may be the cause. But I currently have no tail for my indicator. My old one gave out and I can't get a good reading. Got any ideas how else this could be checked. I only have a 2 gal compressor at my house. And my impact requires more psi to function properly so I can't take the axle nut off and on again to see of the spindle is loose.
 
Assuming the WW's have pistons on each side, the pistons consequently all self position themselves when you hit the brake so unless the shims are way off I don't see them being a problem whatsoever. How do they tell you to shim the setup? I'm guessing you bolt everything up including the tire and hit the brakes. Then disassemble and see where the pistons are at, then you add shims to bring the caliper out more or take away shims to bring the caliper in.

I guess you could see if any of the pistons are seized by trying to compress them (with bleeder screw loose) but I'm going with a runout problem especially if reusing old rotors.

You could also make sure there is no debris between the inside rotor 'hat' and hub flange
 
Make sure that the caliper is completely straight. When I did my brembos the caliper was off just a tad and caused it to rub against the rotor. Also take your lugs and put them on the Your car with no wheel so that the rotor sits flat to get a true test to how the rotor is going to sit I am comparison to the caliper
 
Nherron. New everything. New calipers rotors and all. I'm guessing the spindle is what had the runout problem. But I think if I drive it it will go away. I got it down to a very slight rub on one spot.
 
Make sure that the caliper is completely straight. When I did my brembos the caliper was off just a tad and caused it to rub against the rotor. Also take your lugs and put them on the Your car with no wheel so that the rotor sits flat to get a true test to how the rotor is going to sit I am comparison to the caliper

Yea that was the first issue I had the rotor was rubbing against the very top of the caliper. I noticed that quickly and added a shim to make the caliper sit out more. So I know it is not that.
 
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