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will this trans fit

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xander061

15+ Year Contributor
181
0
Jan 19, 2010
Lexington, Kentucky
Ive been told unclear answers when i asked about this before and have the link to the walkthough to do it but never says anything about the mounts and linkage. Ive have a 92 talon esi w/a blown motor(2L 4g63 5sp) and a 91 talon tsi w/ a rough body(2L 4g63t 5sp) so i am going to convert my 92 esi to a tsi. I know how to do most of the swap but my question is are all the motor, trans and shift linkages all the same? Been told yes and no before.
 
It will work even in a 90 I have a 90 awd with a 92 trans just make sure you change the flywheel clutch and the plate on the engine if you don't change that plate your starter will sound like s**t
 
Im keeping my 91 trans hooked up to my 91 motor and taking the 92 motor and trans out to sell.
 
I did a similar swap on a 94 Talon ES. I took the engine and transmission out of a 91 Laser RS Turbo FWD and swapped them into the 94 Talon (including wiring harness, axles, and front suspension). The shift linkage and transmission mounts from the ES bolted up without any trouble. I also had to transfer over the intercooler, and even that bolted in.
 
I did a similar swap on a 94 Talon ES. I took the engine and transmission out of a 91 Laser RS Turbo FWD and swapped them into the 94 Talon (including wiring harness, axles, and front suspension). The shift linkage and transmission mounts from the ES bolted up without any trouble. I also had to transfer over the intercooler, and even that bolted in.

Wireharness im going to keep the existing one in the 92 but use my tsi ecu and add the few wires needed for a turbo motor. I plan on taking the motor, trans, axles, ecu, fuel pump, intercooler, radiator plus intake and exhaust
 
Sounds like you have it covered. I too bought a new turbo fuel pump, radiator, and exhaust system for the turbo car, but had to modify the muffler a bit because the exit was partially covered by the bumper on the ES. There were a few gadgets from the firewall I had to transfer over as well, such as the resister pack and the solenoids by the driver's side.
 
I would just swap the engine harness also thatd the only one that diff instead of adding the wires
 
I would just swap the engine harness also thatd the only one that diff instead of adding the wires

I agree. Once you look at the wires you would need to add, and those extra gadgets from the firewall, it looks easier and easier to just swap the turbo wiring harness with everything attached. That was the conclusion I came to.
 
Evryone told me it is a pain to pull the wiring harnerss out of a 91

Im in ky also so i dont have to worry about any of the emission stuff
 
It is. The part that is a pain is when you have to pull up the carpeting on the passenger side, and pull out the airbox so you can get at the firewall pass-through of the wiring harness, and unplug it there from the in-car wiring harness. But that was still easier than adding wires for all the missing items on the non-turbo wiring harness.

Also, those solenoids are for more than emissions.
 
Evryone told me it is a pain to pull the wiring harnerss out of a 91

Im in ky also so i dont have to worry about any of the emission stuff

It's about the same amount of work either way. Soldering in a resistor pack and adding a few wires for the knock sensor and maf is about all you have to do. You don't need the fpr solenoid or the boost control solenoid, you can use a manual boost controller.
 
"ECU and Wiring Harness: Here is the 1g turbo ECU Color Coded Pinouts, this is invaluable when working with the engine wiring harness: http://www.dsmtalk.com/gallery/data/...2_Model_1_.jpg

You will need the turbo ECU. Simple as that.

You can either obtain a stock 1g turbo engine wiring harness or modify your factory Non/Turbo harness by adding the following wires:

7th wire from MAS - the 7th wire from the mas needs to be run back to ECU pin #6. This wire is for the stock boost gauge (which is worthless anyways) so you can skip this step and use the stock N/T MAS, especially if you are keeping the N/T gauge cluster (as it doesn't even have the boost gauge. Either way, make sure you buy a real boost gauge.

Knock Sensor - One wire can be grounded to the engine bay somehow, the other white wire needs to be run back to ECU pin #9.

Wastegate Solenoid - One wire here will be grounded, the other returns to the ECU pin #105. Or you can switch to a Manual Boost controller (MBC), in which case this solenoid will be unnecessary.

Injector Resistor Pack - Here is a tech article written by TimG on how to wire the Fuel Injector Resistor Pack into a non-turbo harness: Injector Resistor Pack Wiring (1G N/T -> Turbo Conversion"

Im putting in an aftermarket boost gauge so that eliminates one of the wires since ill have to run that one anyway, mbc so no need for the wastegate solenoid so that just leaves the irp that i need to solder in and the knock harness thay i can wire seems like alot less work then tearing out 2 wiring harnesses then reinstalling one.

I did mine it was a piece of cake.

Which way did u do it?
 
Last edited:
The extra wire for the maf is not for the boost gauge, it is the maf reset wire. The boost gauge is controlled by the ecu.
 
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