Will this camber kit get me to -2.5* camber in teh front?

[bvass]

Like the title says I want to run -2.5 degrees of camber in the front and I am wandering if this kit is enough to get me there - 35750-35760 - Camber Adjusting Control Arm Mounts - Ingalls Engineering Co., Inc.

Last year when I got alignment i was at about -1.4 degrees in the front. The car is lowered about 1.5 inches in the front on Koni/GC

If not what other kit should I get? I don't want adjustable ball joints and I have hared the offset bushings are a pain to adjust and do not last long.

 

[psycho]

Looks like it that kit will only give you -.75 and +1. So, no.

There is a how-to on using two different SPC camber kits (ball joints and anchor bolts) together in achieving something like -4 degrees on camber in the front.

Edit:

Here is the how-to:

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-suspension-brakes/198997-how-add-more-adjustability-front-alignment-2g.html

 

[bvass]

This is a good article but as I mentioned before I do not want to go with the adjustable ball joints. Are the offset bushing my only other option? I like the SPC control arms but they are no longer available.

 

[psycho]

You can rotate the SPC anchor bolts (normally +1.5) to achieve -1.5 with a little grinding to the arm, as per the how-to. And than use the offset bushings.

Not sure how much negative camber the offset bushing will net by themselves.

Edit, according to RRE's website, the offset bushings are +/- 1 degree. So you would have to use two kits in conjunction.

 

[bvass]

The offset bushings are part of the anchor bolts already, but reversing the bolts might work. Thanks for the suggestion.

 

[UofACATS]

You can rotate the SPC anchor bolts .

What are these? Do you have a link please? Thanks.

 

[psycho]

They are new anchor bolts for the upper suspension arm, with offset bushings. You rotate the bushing to vary the positive camber.

SPC Adjustable Front Camber Anchor Bolts 95-99 Eclipse/Talon - CI Motorsports

You use the SPC anchor bolts for +1.5 camber, and reverse them, giving you -1.5 camber. It is the one on the right, in the link above. A little grinding to the inner part of the arm is needed, however.

The anchor bolts for +3.25 camber "turn out" to much to be reversed. A lot of grinding to the arm would be needed.

 

[Scott McIntyre]

Or you can modify your stock upper control arms: LINK

 

[UofACATS]

The anchor bolts for +3.25 camber "turn out" to much to be reversed. A lot of grinding to the arm would be needed.

Thanks for the link and information

Or you can modify your stock upper control arms: LINK

I've thought long and hard about this, but just get nervous about it weakening it too much for road racing. I think it's something I could do on a spare set though. I bet there's a way to calculate the amount needed to cut to achieve the desired camber, but I'm not going to be the one figuring it out unfortunately.

When I finally get new wheels, I'm going to a non-tuck setup like yours. How much front camber do you think is optimal on a road-race, r-comp, non-tuck setup?

 

[everbruin]

those offset anchors only gave me -1; i also cut/welded stock A arms to get more negative =)

 

[Scott McIntyre]

When I finally get new wheels, I'm going to a non-tuck setup like yours. How much front camber do you think is optimal on a road-race, r-comp, non-tuck setup?

I was running -3.0º front with modified control arms, 750 springs and 245's on 8" wheels. But after I switched to GC arms, 900 springs, and 275's on 10" wheels, I found that -3.0º was too much. Braking had suffered. So now I'm running -2.5º.

 

[drivemusicnow]

Thanks for the link and information




I've thought long and hard about this, but just get nervous about it weakening it too much for road racing. I think it's something I could do on a spare set though. I bet there's a way to calculate the amount needed to cut to achieve the desired camber, but I'm not going to be the one figuring it out unfortunately.

When I finally get new wheels, I'm going to a non-tuck setup like yours. How much front camber do you think is optimal on a road-race, r-comp, non-tuck setup?

You really aren't weakening them if the welder knows how to weld. In most cases a weld should be stronger than the base material with steel. If you haven't already boxed in the arms like he's done though, I'd do that after you cut them and weld them back in place. Should give you a very strong arm when you're done.

 

[UofACATS]

The weld will be stronger than the material, but the HAZ will be weaker. I don't foresee it being an issue, it's just a mental game where it's simply one additional modification to worry about. I'd be doing the welding (MIG) myself. Those are stock arms, they're "boxed" like that from the factory.


Since I'm bumping this, could the same thing could be achieved by simply redrilling the hole in the arms? The area is a bit smaller, but it's also closer to the boxed area, and could be reinforced easily enough. I like this idea better than the cut/reweld.

 

[tsunari]

I was running -3.0º front with modified control arms, 750 springs and 245's on 8" wheels. But after I switched to GC arms, 900 springs, and 275's on 10" wheels, I found that -3.0º was too much. Braking had suffered. So now I'm running -2.5º.

Old thread I know, but did you have issues with toe running -3* (tie rods being too long)? and were you on street tires or race compound?