will boost leaks cause rich at idle?

[Karnich]

Hi

i know that boost leaks causes the car to run rich cause of air escapes before it gets into the engine.. so the ecu thinks there is more air than there acturaly is.. BUT im thinking.. when there isnt any boost.. like at idle.. the engine acturaly works as a "sucking" engine and causes vacuum in the intake etc? while on the other hand if there is boost, the air is compressed.

so my question is. if im running rich at idle. 10s.. can that be cause by a boost leak? my wideband dosnt ever go above 10.3 even at higher revs.

NO i didnt boost leak test it yet.. since i havnt got the equitment for it yet.

i think its an innovate wideband L-1 or something like that? was in the car when i bought it. i dont have anything else to tell its running rich than that.. could it be, that it needs to be reset or something?

MODS:
FMIC
BOV (recirculated)
wideband.

 

[AWDGrayBird]

I would check for boost leaks they will cause you to run rich. But is the car driveable like have you taken it out and tried to do a pull? Cause if you get lots of black exhaust and it drives like shit and can't get it to boost I would say you have a Boost leak but I would check and go from there.

 

[ArticNemesis]

Fill out your mod profile completely.

The factory 2g fuel maps are pretty rich to begin with. I ended up taking out between 8 - 15% just to get in an acceptable range while tuning with dsmlink.

 

[donniekak]

A leak after the turbo will make you lean under vacuum and rich under boost. A leak after the mas but before the turbo will make you lean all the time. To be rich at idle you may have a fuel pressure regulator overrun from a larger pump, bad o2 sensor, or a tune so bad the fuel trims can't correct it.

 

[Karnich]

A leak after the turbo will make you lean under vacuum and rich under boost. A leak after the mas but before the turbo will make you lean all the time. To be rich at idle you may have a fuel pressure regulator overrun from a larger pump, bad o2 sensor, or a tune so bad the fuel trims can't correct it.

ya my thought aswell.. i think the pump is stock.. but not sure.. wouldnt a bad o2 sensor set a fault and CEL ? could the fuel pressure regulator be "overrunning" with a stock pump?

my wideband runs between 7.3-10.3

Fill out your mod profile completely.

The factory 2g fuel maps are pretty rich to begin with. I ended up taking out between 8 - 15% just to get in an acceptable range while tuning with dsmlink.

how rich are the factory 2g fuel maps? does 7.3-10.3 on the wideband sound like factory standard to you?

 

[My1GLaser]

my wideband runs between 7.3-10.3

how rich are the factory 2g fuel maps? does 7.3-10.3 on the wideband sound like factory standard to you?

At idle, it should always be near 14.7 regardless of how rich the factory tune is for boosted WOT.

Is the vac line connected to the FPR?

Do you have a logger or any way to see your front O2 voltage at idle? If not, you can always find the sensor output wire and tap into it with a multimeter to see if it is oscillating or just pegged near 1.0v. This would help you see what your AFRs really are at idle. 7.3 to 10.3 would put out quite a bit of black soot on your driveway.

Maybe the guy you got the car from ran alot of race gas and the WB sensor needs replaced? There are also ways to calibrate a WB, but I haven't done it before.

 

[ArticNemesis]

If it's the innovate lc1, what are you using to monitor the AFR? A gauge, or logworks via a laptop/palm?

If it is indeed the LC1 there should have either been a red push button wired into the calibration wire, or you will physically have to ground the wire for 3 seconds and release it. Do that after you remove the sensor from your exhaust. This will let it to a free air calibration. It should read somewhere around 20-21% O2 (Not AFR) with it out of the exhaust after the calibration. You should verify that's what it's reading by viewing it through logworks with a laptop hooked up to the serial output.

 

[Karnich]

At idle, it should always be near 14.7 regardless of how rich the factory tune is for boosted WOT.

Is the vac line connected to the FPR?

Do you have a logger or any way to see your front O2 voltage at idle? If not, you can always find the sensor output wire and tap into it with a multimeter to see if it is oscillating or just pegged near 1.0v. This would help you see what your AFRs really are at idle. 7.3 to 10.3 would put out quite a bit of black soot on your driveway.

Maybe the guy you got the car from ran alot of race gas and the WB sensor needs replaced? There are also ways to calibrate a WB, but I haven't done it before.

FPR = ?

i will try putting a multimeter on the o2 sensor .. cause i dont have any logger or anything.. i did buy a socket eprom ecu for V3. but i dont have the cash for that right now.

can i check the WB the same was as i can check the o2 sensor?

 

[Karnich]

If it's the innovate lc1, what are you using to monitor the AFR? A gauge, or logworks via a laptop/palm?

If it is indeed the LC1 there should have either been a red push button wired into the calibration wire, or you will physically have to ground the wire for 3 seconds and release it. Do that after you remove the sensor from your exhaust. This will let it to a free air calibration. It should read somewhere around 20-21% O2 (Not AFR) with it out of the exhaust after the calibration. You should verify that's what it's reading by viewing it through logworks with a laptop hooked up to the serial output.

its a gauge.. and ya there is a red button.. the previous owner didnt really know what it was for other than it was for the wideband >.<

so i just need to take it out.. push the red button once? maybe turn the ignition on to see it saying 20-21% ? and if it does all that.. its reset and in good condition?

 

[ArticNemesis]

its a gauge.. and ya there is a red button.. the previous owner didnt really know what it was for other than it was for the wideband >.<

so i just need to take it out.. push the red button once? maybe turn the ignition on to see it saying 20-21% ? and if it does all that.. its reset and in good condition?

It may or may not fix your problem. When you push the button (if it's wired correctly) It'll ground out your calibration wire, causing the unit to go into a free air calibration. It will only fix your problem if the reason it's reading rich is because the sensor is off. If you are indeed rich from some other condition, then this won't have done anything to fix your problem.

Yes, the ignition should be on, so that the unit is getting power.

I'm not sure if the gauge will display a free air (02) reading or not.

 

[ArticNemesis]

FPR = ?

Fuel Pressure Regulator. It's on the end of your fuel rail.

can i check the WB the same was as i can check the o2 sensor?

Another question i forgot to ask. Where is the LC1 sensor mounted?

 

[Karnich]

Fuel Pressure Regulator. It's on the end of your fuel rail.



Another question i forgot to ask. Where is the LC1 sensor mounted?

i will check for that vacc line in the morning

its mounted between the first and second o2 sensor



If i where to push the red button while the WB sensor was still in the exhaust. would that cause it to read wrong ?

if the red button dosnt work. how do i ground it?

 

[ArticNemesis]

If i where to push the red button while the WB sensor was still in the exhaust. would that cause it to read wrong ?

Yes, it could possibly pick up any lingering exhaust fumes, causing an incorrect read.

if the red button dosnt work. how do i ground it?

Touch the black wire to ground for 3 seconds, then release it. If you have the LED installed, it should start blinking steadily until it becomes solid red. After it's completed calibrating, you need to shut it back off for 30 seconds, prior to starting the car.