wideband readings

[peter535]

ok so i just installed my wideband and i wanted to know something,on idle its reading 10.7, on full throttle 11.2 sometimes 10.8, and on cruising its on 12.3, so are those numbers good or bad,aslo lets say when im accelerating is it supposed to stay at one number???

 

[peter535]

ok im sorry for my grammar ill try to correct my mistakes for next time,so how can i check if the sensor is good or bad?

 

[oldman]

ok im sorry for my grammar ill try to correct my mistakes for next time

What is how hard about capping your i's and beginning of sentences? PLEASE don't force me to ask you again, look around and see how other members (proven members) are posting.

so how can i check if the sensor is good or bad?

A logger, you want to see your O2 reading bouncing between .2 and .8 when the system is in close loop, you'll also want to make sure your coolant temperature sensor is functioning properly, a faulty coolant sensor will also prevent your system from entering close loop and dumping fuel during idle and part throttle because the system thinks you're still in warm up mod. Lastly, logging your LTFT (Long Term Fuel Trim) will also verified that your WB reading during idle and part throttle are in fact accurate, LTFT stuck at 0 is also a verification that your system is not getting into close loop.

 

[peter535]

What is how hard about capping your i's and beginning of sentences? PLEASE don't force me to ask you again, look around and see how other members (proven members) are posting.


A logger, you want to see your O2 reading bouncing between .2 and .8 when the system is in close loop, you'll also want to make sure your coolant temperature sensor is functioning properly, a faulty coolant sensor will also prevent your system from entering close loop and dumping fuel during idle and part throttle because the system thinks you're still in warm up mod. Lastly, logging your LTFT (Long Term Fuel Trim) will also verified that your WB reading during idle and part throttle are in fact accurate, LTFT stuck at 0 is also a verification that your system is not getting into close loop.

On my logger the O2 reading is in high numbers like 980 1000 so how much should it be ?

 

[oldman]

Those number do not make sense to me except that if it's not cycling back and forth, it's not functioning properly. Which logger/logger program are you using?

 

[laserspeeddemon]

What is how hard about capping your i's and beginning of sentences? PLEASE don't force me to ask you again, look around and see how other members (proven members) are posting.


A logger, you want to see your O2 reading bouncing between .2 and .8 when the system is in close loop, you'll also want to make sure your coolant temperature sensor is functioning properly, a faulty coolant sensor will also prevent your system from entering close loop and dumping fuel during idle and part throttle because the system thinks you're still in warm up mod. Lastly, logging your LTFT (Long Term Fuel Trim) will also verified that your WB reading during idle and part throttle are in fact accurate, LTFT stuck at 0 is also a verification that your system is not getting into close loop.

Maybe his shift key is broke. (shrug)

 

[peter535]

OBD gauge, it writes oxygen sensor 1(mv)

 

[oldman]

OBD gauge, it writes oxygen sensor 1(mv)

Sorry, I have no personal experience with it so I can't comment on what it actually mean.

 

[oldman]

Did you read the manual for the logger for proper interpretation?

 

[peter535]

NOPE but i will now,do u know a 2g logger program that reads o2 sensor?

 

[oldman]

www.pocketlogger.com

http://students.db.erau.edu/~szabafab/stein/download.htm

There are more if you search.

 

[peter535]

Thanks allot i will log tomorow and i will post the logs if i can figure out how

 

[oldman]

No problem and good luck, thank you for complying with the forum rules.

 

[SOADweskey]

From what I can tell your logger is displaying the O2 voltage in mili-volts. In that case 980 is equal to .98V and 1000 is equal to 1.0V.

So what you want to see at idle is the reading jumping between 200 and 800 give or take. Every car is a little different on the exact numbers but the bouncing back and forth is important.

 

[peter535]

Ok so i logged the o2 censor and at idle it was 0 so i went for a drive and the highest it went was 320 usualy it was at 20 so .32v that means what?

 

[oldman]

Ok so i logged the o2 censor and at idle it was 0 so i went for a drive and the highest it went was 320 usualy it was at 20 so .32v that means what?

Can you link me to the logger manual on the internet?

If it's not cycling and it's stuck on the low side like you indicated in your last post, it usually means you have a bad O2 sensor and the system is stuck in open loop which explains why you're running pig rich at idle.

If it's not cycling and stuck on the high side like you said in post #28, it could also mean a bad O2 or bad coolant sensor OR both. In any case, the results will be the same, system stuck in open loop or warm up mode = pig rich at idle and cruise.

 

[peter535]

Can a bad front o2 sensor be harmfull to my engine?

 

[peter535]

On my logger it reads that my front o2 sensor is running lean(0.0-0.3v) and on my wideband it reads that my rear o2 is running lean (10.7) this is all on idle,is that possible?

ps. sorry oldman i forgot to reply to your message,i coouldnt find the manual on the internet

 

[oldman]

On my logger it reads that my front o2 sensor is running lean(0.0-0.3v)

That means the O2 sensor is not functioning just like we said in the beginning, O2 needs to cycle between .2 and .8 at idle.

and on my wideband it reads that my rear o2 is running lean (10.7) this is all on idle,is that possible?

That is not lean, that is rich. And this is due to your front O2 not functioning and your car is not getting into close loop.

I feel like we keep going around in a circle, bottom line, you need a new O2 sensor just like we said in the beginning.

 

[peter535]

OK im sorry i meant to say that my front is lean and my rear is rich right? also the front o2 is it easy to change?

 

[oldman]

1. Your front is not lean, it's simply not reading correctly.

2. Stop calling your WB O2 the "rear" so readers won't confuse it with the stock rear O2 sensor. Yes, your WB reading is rich.

3. As long as you have an O2 sensor socket, it's pretty easy to change the front O2.

 

[cotsi95]

Make sure you ground your wideband to the battery. If you dont your readings will be slightly off.

 

[peter535]

Make sure you ground your wideband to the battery. If you dont your readings will be slightly off.

The shop already installed it so i dont know where they put the ground

 

[cotsi95]

I would make sure that its grounded to the battery. Most shops dont do this and it can throw your readings off.

 

[oldman]

I would make sure that its grounded to the battery. Most shops dont do this and it can throw your readings off.

That is simply not true, there are simply too many variables when it comes to proper grounding. Although I'm no expert in the field, I have never heard that "grounding to the battery" is a must. I will let you read it yourself, section 2.3. http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/support/manual/LC-1_Manual.pdf

 

[cotsi95]

When i installed my AEM uego thats is what the reps at AEM said to do. Innovate probably doesn't recommend this because there wideband has a calibration function built in and i don't think the UEGO has that.