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la-panocha

15+ Year Contributor
41
0
Jun 18, 2005
Minneapolis, Minnesota
Got my actron today, also new O2 sensor put in this morning. Put on about 75 miles and performance is good.
Here are my readings at idle for now and will get more tomorrow while driving.

ABSLT TPS(%) 0.4
RPM 976
CALC LOAD 18.8
MAF(LB/M) 0.57
COOLANT 210
IAT 126
IGN ADV 9.0
ST FTRM1 0.8^
LT FTRM1 12.5
FUEL SYSTEM 1&2 CLOSED
O2S11(V) 0.460
ST FTRM11(%) 25.0^
O2S12 0.060
ST FTRM12 -90.6

What are the ideal readings for either idle and/or while driving?

What conditions do I want when getting freeze frame while driving? WOT or cruising?
 
When I replaced TB shaft seals I also had to replace o-ring on BISS. I don't have everything adjusted quite right but kinda close....this is where I ask for help on what to look for to get an ideal idle etc.
IAT was higher because I had engine idling for a few minutes before getting scanner outta package :) (I also need to fabricate a shield for intake/filter)

I don't understand what the FTRM's mean so all help is much appreciated.
 
ST FTRM = Shot Term Fuel Trim --> aka. STFT
LT FTRM = Long Term Fuel Trim --> aka. LTFT

It is the percent adjustment that the ECU is applying to bring the air fuel ratio to stoic (approx 14.7).

Idealy, they'd be zero when added together. But that's not always possible. Most people try to keep the LTFT's lower than +/- 5%. Since the LTFT is positive, I'd look for a vacuum leak post throttle body. Something like injector o-rings or a throttle body gasket. A boost leak test with some soapy water spray should make locating that easier. It could also be a bit high if your aftermath intake is throwing the reading off. The reason you should try to get it back down is that it maxes out at 12.5%.


ST FTRM11 and ST FTRM12 don't apply. Those are erroneous readings.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
IAT is still way high should be around ambient air temp at idle. I wouldnt see it being more than 10 degrees higher than ambient temp.

LTFT is long term fuel trim. It is a percentage of correction the ECU is making over a long period of time. This could be high if it hasnt reset itself from the time you replaced the bad o2 sensor.
 
Hmmmm.... after I put new O2 in I had battery disconnected to clear code.

Does ECU still hold data from previous readings?

Before O2 replace you could feel it was running rich along with 14mpg haha.
Now it is waaaaayy smoother and more power/pull.
I did hear tonight what sounded like a faint vac "eeeeeee" after BOV opened and TB was shut....

I still think it's quite sad how this GSX was neglected by previous owner but definately enjoyable getting her back to glory.

Thanks for all the help y'all

**Do I want flash from full boost or just cruising at 55/60?**

Here is a frame from while at cruise today..


MIL STATUS Off
ABSLT TPS(%) 14.5
ENG SPEED(RPM) 2596
CALC LOAD(%) 31.0
MAF(LB/M) 3.03
COOLANT(°F) 196
IAT(°F) 68
IGN ADV(°) 29.0
ST FTRM1(%) -1.6
LT FTRM1(%) 1.6
VEH SPEED(MPH) 57
FUEL SYS 1 CLSD
FUEL SYS 2 CLSD
O2S11(V) 0.740
ST FTRM11(%) 9.4
O2S12(V) 0.740
ST FTRM12(%) 6.3
OBD2 STAT CA

Here is at 12psi
MIL STATUS Off
ABSLT TPS(%) 69.0
ENG SPEED(RPM) 4308
CALC LOAD(%) 100.0
MAF(LB/M) 19.04
COOLANT(°F) 196
IAT(°F) 68
IGN ADV(°) 9.0
ST FTRM1(%) 0.0
LT FTRM1(%) 1.6
VEH SPEED(MPH) 65
FUEL SYS 1 OPEN1
FUEL SYS 2 OPEN1
O2S11(V) 0.940
ST FTRM11(%) 46.9
O2S12(V) 0.920
ST FTRM12(%) 43.8
OBD2 STAT CA
 
Well the gas mileage was cruddy, and also had old exh. mani. had crack but all is replaced and I threw a P0170, replaced the O2 sensor and CEL is gone.
The readings look alright while driving(?) but I don't quite like the idle results.
A: I am trying to figure out what is causing rich condition at idle.
B: Have other issue with coolant loss but yes I have done a search and am looking into possible causes...

Will be doing another boost leak check, recheck for vac leaks, need to section off air intake to keep from getting high AIT at idle, compression test....

How do the readings look from cruise/boost? Anything look off?
 
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