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Wich Rods Could Support 800hp

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DSMExtremetuner

Probationary Member
9
0
Jun 1, 2005
san juan, New York
I bought some Carrillo Rods and some people have told me that for 750hp+ i would need another rods could you guys tell me if this Rods could support so much abuse? i have always use eagle rods and have ad no problem but i know that eagle only suports up to 600hp.
 
the main thing is,most people,including me and you will never max out a rod...if the motor is built right,and no oil pressure/oil flow conditions arise.

a eagle rod,or carrillo is pretty imposible to max out.....people just throw numbers around,dosnt mean if you make 600hp or 750hp the rod is gonna snap right then and there. :thumb:

a stock rod has been proven to hold 500hp and more,properly prepped
 
Pauter rods are known as some of the strongest rods you can get short of going with aluminum rods. Not many people use them due to their extreme cost. They are strong and actually a bit lightweight compared to a stock rod, made of billet chromoly steel.
 
Groden Aluminium rods are quoted to be able to handle anything that's thrown at them.
 
GRP aluminum and titanium connecting rods.

http://www.grpconrods.com/

GRP CONNECTING RODS
2190 South Jason St.
Denver CO. 80223

phone (303)935-7565
fax (303)935-8048
 
1fastlaser said:
the main thing is,most people,including me and you will never max out a rod...if the motor is built right,and no oil pressure/oil flow conditions arise.

a eagle rod,or carrillo is pretty imposible to max out.....people just throw numbers around,dosnt mean if you make 600hp or 750hp the rod is gonna snap right then and there. :thumb:

a stock rod has been proven to hold 500hp and more,properly prepped
I completly agree. 90% of rod failures out there are from improper bearing oil clearances/assembly. Carrillo are very nice rods and you will not have a problem with them. I have yet to see a forged 4340 rod fail. As long as you dont detonate the motor they will last forever.
 
Correct me if I'm wrong, but I believe Shep was using Pauter rods in his last motor. If they can handle 1000+ hp I'm sure they'll do fine for 800hp.
 
Shepard has been running Groden rods for some time now. That is a fact. Told me so himself.

These aren't the exact ones we got. The ones we have are a solid beam. Not a pocketed beam.

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Steven
 

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Problem with aluminum rods it that they fatigue. You cant just keep running them, because over time they harden and no longer have the qualities that make aluminum rods strong. Aluminum rods act as a damper, and actually compress ever so slightly during the power stroke in order to absorb the force. It all depends on what you want the engine for, because the aluminums would be good for a strictly track car, but might not be so hot for a street rocket.
 
Groden claims there rods are good for street use because they use a different alloy than any other aluminum rod. When we were looking at purchasing connecting rods for our street/strip cars we looked at everything and Darren at FFWD told us about the Groden rods and said they were good for street use and they won't fatigue like other aluminum rods. So we called Groden and they assured us that the rod will take anything we can throw at it and it will withstand street use. We will be finding out exactly what they can handle sometime next month.
 
what he said.^ I forgot who i was talking to at SBR, but they said the same thing. thats why in thier stage 3 stroker kits they offer aluminum rods for full race, and manley steel rods for street strip. im running oliver rodsin my set up. :thumb:
 
im am in no way gonna preace...everyone has there own opinions,and have a set amount of money they can spend...but for mostly everyone...9 sec-15 sec wouldnt need to spend all the money on a crazy set of rods.There is money to be spent somewhere else.Remember simple setups go the fastest...you could have a machine shop build a fully exotic race motor with allll the most expensive parts,and have a machine shop built a basic build up...it dosent mean the exotic race motor is gonna outlast the basic forged motor build up......it comes down to machine shop quality....the machine shop has all the power in the world to build a stout motor or a 1000 mile blown up motor.Groden rods are a very expensive rod,and it wont matter how much you spend on internals,if the machine shop does one thing wrong,all those expensive internals will go to crap.Plus why spend an extra 3-400 dollars on rods,i mean are you gonna be running 7s any time soon LOL...remember the saying....KEEP IT SIMPLE STUPID
 
Groden rods are not expensive. They are cheaper than Crower and Pauter. The whole reason for using an aluminum rod is for the weight savings. Take my cousins engine for example. No balance shafts (6lbs), knife edged crank (7lbs), aluminum rods(2.5lbs), ceramic coated forged pistons(similar weight), aluminum flywheel (11lbs), aluminum cam gears(2 lbs), electric water pump (no clue). We have more weight savins planned for the top end, titanium valves, springs, retainers, etc... Imagine how much quicker this engine will rev. We're talking about 30 lbs taken off of the rotating assembly. The complete bottom end cost somewhere around 2200 to 2500 with machine work. I don't think that's too much for the amount of power we want to put down. Everybody always says that aluminum rods won't work on the street but I have yet to hear somebody on here that has actually used them. So it's all word of mouth and speculation.
 
yeah weight savings is good,it all depends what you shooting for,but making power,and what you run are 2 different things...i dont think most people here are looking to make 1000hp,mostly just trying to click off some decent times,which 9-10-11 second slips dont require all the other stuff,like weight savings,electric water pumps to do so...in my opinion all that stuff is a waste of money,and wont net alot more power,a nicely built 2.0,aem,and about 5 6 in suporting mods will throw down 10 second slips,and wont be far from 9s..and thats around 550-alittle over 600hp.....9s is hard enough to keep up with....most people are shooting for daily driving fast,not john shepard LOL,which i would never spend the money on a dsm to try to go 8s,i would just build a v8
 
Isnt the guy that started this thread looking to make over 750hp? So the weight savings, and electric water pump, will be a very important part of making his engine survive and produce that much power.
 
People i was asking if the rods where good enough to manage 800hp here in the island we have a Galant VR4 that runs 10.2 at 142miles my car suposed to be in that same horsepower he has 816hp but uses Pauter Rods that is why i am asking. Because i have never tried Carrillo rods and when i got them to my shop they looked pretty thin.
 
The Pauter rods that I have in my motor are not very thick, I doubt they are any thicker than the stock rods, but its all in their design (x-beam).
 
1fastlaser said:
well yes thats true,he never really did state his reason for needing something to hold 800hp

hmm maybe because he wants to make 800+hp.
dsmextremetuner you should call carillo and ask them about the limitations of the rods
 
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