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NitrousBob

15+ Year Contributor
144
0
May 24, 2004
Montesano, Washington
I need to rebuild the bottom end of my 92 Talon Tsi Engine. ITs a 4g63 Turbo (im sure you all knew that already) I have extra engines laying around. I have a 9:1 block thats all good on the bottom end... The donor is a 91 GS engine... I believe the a rod bearing is out on the turbo engine.
heres the questions

1. are the rods in the turbo the same as the non turbo? That would be great
2. are the cranks the same? Obviously they must have the same stroke.
3. has anyone had the crank resized and offset ground it for more stroke? within a -0.020 spec
4. what kind of bearings are good for turbo ? mitsu? or clevite?
5. If I have the engine balanced does that mean I dont need balance shafts. I would like to employ an elimator kit.
 
NitrousBob said:
I need to rebuild the bottom end of my 92 Talon Tsi Engine. ITs a 4g63 Turbo (im sure you all knew that already) I have extra engines laying around. I have a 9:1 block thats all good on the bottom end... The donor is a 91 GS engine... I believe the a rod bearing is out on the turbo engine.
heres the questions

1. are the rods in the turbo the same as the non turbo? That would be great
2. are the cranks the same? Obviously they must have the same stroke.
3. has anyone had the crank resized and offset ground it for more stroke? within a -0.020 spec
4. what kind of bearings are good for turbo ? mitsu? or clevite?
5. If I have the engine balanced does that mean I dont need balance shafts. I would like to employ an elimator kit.

1. I do believe the rods are the same as long as its a early 90s.
2. The cranks are the same as well. as long as its a 6 bolt
3. I would buy a stroked crank from magnus, FFWD, BJ cylinder heads. Once the crank is turned it needs to be re nitrided (hardened) so ask them about it. They are the best ones to ask.
4. Clevite is the popular choise for DSMs or federal mogual
5. The reason for removing the balance shafts is to get the rotating weight out of the engine and to eliminate BS belt failure and taking out the timing belt.
Have your rotating assembly balanced. crank, rods and pistons so every thing is in harmony at 8k. :D
 
Thanks.. I like those answers thats typically what I do to my Small block chevys including all the balancing and nitride treatment. I was also going to coat the top of the pistons and the exhast ports with ceramic. I gotta check with my shop to see if that stuff is turbo safe. What do poeple do about plug wires. Every time I buy a set the damn boots come apart. can you recommend a set or should I just go to the dealer.
 
NitrousBob said:
Thanks.. I like those answers thats typically what I do to my Small block chevys including all the balancing and nitride treatment. I was also going to coat the top of the pistons and the exhast ports with ceramic. I gotta check with my shop to see if that stuff is turbo safe. What do poeple do about plug wires. Every time I buy a set the damn boots come apart. can you recommend a set or should I just go to the dealer.
I also looked into having my ross pistons creamic coated but from talking to the makers and people who do the work,on a street car thats used every day it makes no diffrence if you have it or not aslong as you go with a ross or wiesco pistons. The pistons are made for turbo aplications (heat). The ceramic coating flakes off the tops of the piston over time so I see no sense in doing it unless its a track only car. Spend your money elsewere were it will HELP you.
If I were to ceramic coat anything it would be the exhaust manifold and the turbo exhaust
housing to hold the heat inside the system to increase exhaust flow out the motor.
As far as plug wires go I have NGKs and they are all you really need. The fit is perfect and offer more OHM resistance than the stockers that cost twice as much. Magnacore? is a nother great wire but more expensive.
 
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