The Central Hub for DSM Community and Information

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. This is where the DSM platform history is documented and archived. Log in to help us in our mission, and to remove most ads from the browsing experience.

Eagle Rods

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

PolkCounty_TSI

Banned Member
46
0
Jan 4, 2005
Haines City, Florida
I am buying new pistons and rods, and the pistons im buy are ross racing pistons.
If i get the pistons the stock size. Will eagle rods fit the pistons without extra machine work.
I looked on all the forums and nothing could answer my question. Please help .
 
Get the Wiseco pistons..

Get eagle rods and consider the bolt upgrade... They all have ARP's but you can get some even stronger ones for another $50...

There are 3 grades of ARP's that eagle has. I'm not sure all shops sell the same.

Low ballers might have the 8740 bolts.
The other bolt grades

Mid the ARP2000

High the L19

190,000 psi
230,000 psi
265,000 psi
 
I will take the best pistons out there , but i just want to stick with the stock bore size and everything else
 
They are good pistons... Shep runs them...

In a true street driven car you want the offset wrist pin of the wisecos, you can run them tighter too for less slap.

They are much closer in weight. Have a smoother finish etc..

The machine shop just has be sure to set them up at .003 piston to bore clearance at the skirt not the pin...

YOU MUST OVERBORE ATLEAST .020..

YOU CANNOT GET A DECENT SEAL OR RUN THE RIGHT CLEARANCE FOR ANY DECENT PISTON OTHERWISE,
 
MNGSX said:
They are good pistons... Shep runs them... between them.

In a true street driven car you want the offset wrist pin of the wisecos, you can run them tighter too for less slap.

They are much closer in weight. Have a smoother finish etc..

The machine shop just has be sure to set them up at .003 piston to bore clearance at the skirt not the pin...

YOU MUST OVERBORE ATLEAST .020..

Well see thats the thing I want to stick with the stock bore size. I dont feel like taking it to the machine shop and spending extra hundreds of dollars. If i had alot of money i would.
I mean the reason im changing the pistons is because i have a blown piston rings.
So i was like what the hell, i will just rebuild the motor. I want the best pistons but i just dont want to take it to a machine shop . you know what mean ,
:thumb:
 
Thats like I want to take a shower but I'll put back on the clothes I ran a marathon in.


The machine work is crucial to power even with OE replacement cast pistons...

Do you mean worn out rings or blew up the ring land and rings.

Either way new rings wont break in and seat right.
 
Thats not true. Measure the bores before you do anything. A friend still had crosshatch on his walls, so they were still in good shape, with a re-hone and stock bore wiseco pistons, 8k later he has perfect compression and its running great. Also diambo4life is currently doing this. If the cylinders are in good shape to start, you can get away with a proper hone to get the piston to wall clearance needed.

But BTW, usually its about 100$ to have a motor bored/honed.
 
MNGSX said:
They are good pistons... Shep runs them...

In a true street driven car you want the offset wrist pin of the wisecos, you can run them tighter too for less slap.

They are much closer in weight. Have a smoother finish etc..

The machine shop just has be sure to set them up at .003 piston to bore clearance at the skirt not the pin...

YOU MUST OVERBORE ATLEAST .020..

YOU CANNOT GET A DECENT SEAL OR RUN THE RIGHT CLEARANCE FOR ANY DECENT PISTON OTHERWISE,

yeah i know that, i mean i never took a motor to a machine shop, how much does it usually cost.
 
anconover said:
Thats not true. Measure the bores before you do anything. A friend still had crosshatch on his walls, so they were still in good shape, with a re-hone and stock bore wiseco pistons, 8k later he has perfect compression and its running great. Also diambo4life is currently doing this. If the cylinders are in good shape to start, you can get away with a proper hone to get the piston to wall clearance needed.

But BTW, usually its about 100$ to have a motor bored/honed.


Well thats what i was saying, I wanted to stay with the stock bore size. I mean if it means taking the motor to the machine shop just to get 400 hp, you know i will do it . but i need to know the best way to do it because this is my first dsm.
 
Because you wouldnt do it on your car doesnt mean its wrong. Thats the attitude everyone has. "worked for me, so must be right" "they broke on my car, theyre junk".

The truth is you dont always have to bore, especially if your going for a cheap fix without having to pull the motor. It can definetely be done, and it has been done with no problems. But obviously not every motor can be redone without boring over.

Before you go doing anything, you should check the cylinder walls, and use a dial bore gauge to check them. If you were having motor troubles, odds are the walls may be scored or what not and need to be bored, thats something you need to look into. No ones gonna tell you how much to overbore etc.
 
Get it tanked too.. Nice and clean for the new bearings.

A guy wanting the BEST pistons is'nt a cheap fix...

I dont think you will find any discipline in motorsports that would'nt think thats "ghetto" for a performance car.
 
MNGSX said:
Not my car..


First machine shop in search engine

http://www.aacncclub.com/crucemotor/MACHINESHOPPRICES.html

Bore Block and Hone
4 cyl ............................................. 75.00


$800 on rods and pistons but another $75 is too much to do it right. Mmmmkay


No dude i thought there were like up in the hundreds, im sorry dude . like i said i dont know anything about prices at machine shops
 
Obviously you wont be assembling the motor yourself, or at least i dont think you should be honestly. Take it to a machine shop, and have it looked over etc. Talk to them about what you wanna do, youll need to find a competant machine shop tho. Or someone who specializes in 4G63's.

Theyres alot of information on engine builds etc. Poke around and read up.
 
Get a :dsm: shop manual.. PM me any time...

I have done a few. Soon maybe I'll be selling some engines.. Now no but I can walk you thru it.
 
anconover said:
Obviously you wont be assembling the motor yourself, or at least i dont think you should be honestly. Take it to a machine shop, and have it looked over etc. Talk to them about what you wanna do, youll need to find a competant machine shop tho. Or someone who specializes in 4G63's.

Theyres alot of information on engine builds etc. Poke around and read up.


No i have done engine work before. I worked on several motors . I replaced pistons for a small block chevy engine . I do know that if i have scored walls on the cylinders, well then i do have to get it bored out then.
 
Just watch these cranks.

They are "tufftrided" or nitrided. It hardens the surface.. If it is'nt scored just get std rod and mains.

If its torn up get it turned (YES YOU CAN) but make sure the shop actually has NITRIDE hardening capabilities and DOES treat it again.

The crank is probably OK...
 
You may have replaced pistons in a small block, but you dont seem knowledgable enough of the 4G63 to have the proper work done and assembly. Dont rush into it, poke around, read up and poke through a shop manual, it should answer your questions. And youll need to tear it down and i assume you have a caliper, micrometer set and dial bore gauge if your going to do the work yourself, so start checking everything over.
 
anconover said:
Obviously you wont be assembling the motor yourself, or at least i dont think you should be honestly. Take it to a machine shop, and have it looked over etc. Talk to them about what you wanna do, youll need to find a competant machine shop tho. Or someone who specializes in 4G63's.

Theyres alot of information on engine builds etc. Poke around and read up.

and i know alot now about the 4g63 motors its not like they are new i mean come on.

I done work on 4 cly motors such as v-tech motors .
I mean man i know how to do it. its just i want to kind go the same route everybody elses going on about rebuild their motor its just some things that people do is sometimes not called and a waste of money. I mean i want to know the best way to build up my hp to 400 and dude if you can help then go right a head. Man i look up to alll the people that know alot about theses dsms. I do
 
anconover said:
You may have replaced pistons in a small block, but you dont seem knowledgable enough of the 4G63 to have the proper work done and assembly. Dont rush into it, poke around, read up and poke through a shop manual, it should answer your questions. And youll need to tear it down and i assume you have a caliper, micrometer set and dial bore gauge if your going to do the work yourself, so start checking everything over.
yes i have most of the tools

and if you asked one simple question and it sounded like a stupid question. I would tell you that you should do this and that . I mean look up at the first question that i have asked.
Like i said i know that clyinders that our scored need to be bored out. but there are people out there that do it when their clyinders are not scored, but they do it just for bigger pistons and high perfomance. I mean im not turning the car into a drag car . i still want to be able drive it back and for to place on the street.
 
MNGSX said:
Just watch these cranks.

They are "tufftrided" or nitrided. It hardens the surface.. If it is'nt scored just get std rod and mains.

If its torn up get it turned (YES YOU CAN) but make sure the shop actually has NITRIDE hardening capabilities and DOES treat it again.

The crank is probably OK...

yeah im deffently getting the motor checked out , exspecialy the crankshaft. I mean this is what im going to do i will tear down the motor and i will inspect it and after i inspect it i will take it to a machine shop and have the pros to look at it to be on the safe side.
I always do that on everything i do.
 
Boring the motor wont make it any less reliable. You do the same thing to the 4G63 as any motor. Hot tank it, needs to be ridiculously clean. Check block deck, resurface if necessary, especially if using a metal HG it should be down to about a 20RA finish. Have the mains checked, and line honed if needed. A MUST if using ARP main studs. The crank, do not turn if you dont have to, just have a simple micropolish done. And have the rotating assembly balanced.

Heres some quick estimated prices.

Bore/hone ~100$
Micropolish crank ~35$
Hot Tank/Retap Holes ~50$
Resurface ~ 50$
 
Add Value - Be Respectful - No Trolling - No Misinformation - Participate Often!
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community

Build Thread Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top