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whole exhaust set up

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j5productions

Proven Member
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Nov 15, 2012
Newark, Delaware
hey everyone, im hoping to replace my entire set up including headers, cat, and exhaust. my question is would this set work together if anyone has experiance with it?
Also i know you get what you pay for but what about this hi-flow cat from ebay. its only 30 bucks though?
I think it'll fit up, headers end with a 2.25 where the cat starts with that, and the cat ends with a 2.5 where the exhaust starts. just want some clarify though.
Thank you! :D
MR-SSH-ME95NT Megan Racing Headers - 4-1 (Stainless Steel) for 95-99 Mitsubishi Eclipse at Andy's Auto Sport
95 96 97 98 99 Mitsubishi Eclipse Non Turbo Hi Flow Cat Catalytic Converter | eBay
MFCAT2-ELP95NTT-SD Spec D 2.5 Inch Inlet N1 Style Catback Exhaust With Burnt Tip Non Turbo for 95-99 Mitsubishi Eclipse at Andy's Auto Sport
 
the cat is showing $31.99 for me. :confused: and i guess i will get it and keep my stock one just in case it sh#ts out.

this is what i'm seeing (i added the part from the bottom of the ebay list as well, will this still be street legal? (sorry i'm a noob about this thing)
 

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I didn't see anywhere in the header ad anything about the down pipe. You may wanna look at that. I know the picture shows it but, ultimately you never really know. Have you looked at c/l? I just found a brand new un installed complete exhaust with down pipe for like 100 bucks here locally.
 
What spaces would i need to use for the test pipe on the o2? If i get the test pipe to have after emissions , I've seen some people need a spacer of some sort, or should i get a new o2 sensor ?
 
You're not gona want to hear this but...don't get an exhaust for your car. The power gains are so minimal they aren't even noticeable. I have a true cold air intake, headers, downpipe, high flow cat and a catback on my 420a dd car (all installed by previous owner) and I've driven other 420a's that feel no different, except for the annoying exhaust drone. See if anyone around you has a n/t dsm with an exhaust and drive with them and listen to it. Just my opinion
 
^^ just used the word "headers" on a DSM, therefore his input is null and void.

If your exhaust is in need of replacing, go ahead and replace it. If your short on cash, your local muffler shop can easily bend you up a full system.
 
Mines rusted to sh#t, only reason Why I'm replacing Haha, plus I like it looking pretty in the engine Bay, and it'll help for When i sell it to some kid who wants a nice sounding dsm.
 
If you go on ebay you can get a complete system for just over $200. I have a full BBP system, I bought the cat back used and then got the header new off ebay for like $67 shipped. I also bought the test pipe to replace the cat, but have since put the catalytic converter back on.

As others have stated, you wont feel any performance gains and it will be loud on the highway so be prepaired for that. I wouldnt even bother with the test pipe, just use your stock cat if you can. I put my stock cat on for emission testing and there was no difference over using the test pipe, so I just left the cat in.
 
We're talking about a N/T here...did you not catch that part?

you said "headers" when it's just "header" this isn't a v6 or v8, there is only 1 header.

if you want a nice sounding 420a, here is what you do.

Header (the megan is fine)
stock cat, or a magnaflow hi-flow cat (not the ebay one you posted.) This
2.5" mandrel bent piping.
Vibrant ultra quiet Resonator This
Magnaflow Street series muffler This

will be a little bit more $$ than a ready made kit, but you will have one of the ebst sounding 420a's in the world. Trust me, i know.
after owning 3 of them, all with different exhaust setups, this is by far the winner. Sounds better than even my old turbo 420a.
 
I have to replace my Exhaust due to it rusting all the way through. My Stainless steel muffler exploded off the pipe while on the highway. I am doing a full conversion also. Going all stainless steel 2.0" to outlet all the way to the High Flow Cat with a 2.5 Inlet & outlet. Using stainless steel reducers to get the flanges to match the connections on both sides of the Cat. The pipe reduces back down to a 2.0" all the way to the muffler which increases back up to 2.5' inlet with a 5.5" wide oval outlet. The reason for the 2.0" to 2.5" pipe fluxuations is because I can't find a full stainless steel pipe set for the 420A. I have to peice meal in the Cat & Muff. I don't like the idea of my firery red head rusting. Next to some dumba$$ dinging my girl, rust is my second biggest fear.
This set up claims to give a 15 horse power increase. I was told I don't want to do too much increase in HP because the block won't handle much more than that. Any one know of any difference to that statement? What is the most HP increase I should expect to reach before I compromise the engine block?
 
the only way you're going to reach the limit of the bottom end (it's the pistons that are weak) is if you slap a turbo on it.

don't go to a 2" pipe, that's just stupid.
go to a muffler shop and have them custom make a pipe.
 
Yeah, as long as you don't go turbo or start doing heavy mods you will be good. Hell even headers and full pipe and just little things like that won't hurt a weak block.
 
If my new headers are 2.25 and my new cat back starts with 2.50, will my stock cat be able to be welded on? Or would i need a new cat?
 
You could get a reducer that would be welded onto your existing Cat, therefore not needing to replace your current cat.

I am in the same process you are at this moment.

My issue is the whole 2" vs. 2.25" vs. 2.5" pipe size.
I was told on this forum by another member that going to a 2" pipe "was stupid"
I read online that maintaining the 2.5" flow from "Header" to muffler provided the highest performance throughput.
My dilema is obtaining a full (kit or piecemeal) exhaust set in STAINLESS STEEL while keeping the 2.25" or 2.5' pipe size from beginning to end.

My understanding is the 420A port on the upper portion of the block is 2" exhaust port where the header is connected.
From my reading I want a 4-1 pipe not a 4-2-1 pipe. I would not mind having a pipe go from polished white metal to a burnt blue. That actually sounds as if it would add a pleasant taste of color to the engine area.
 
If you plan on keeping your car for a good amount of time - just do it right. Your list consits of Good parts mixed with crappy parts which in the end will lead to a crappy sounding exhaust. The picture of the "cat" is actually a test pipe with a resonator. If it states it's not what's pictured - I have a hard time believing that a $31.99 cat will pass smog or last long enough to pass its second. If you just want a nice sounding exhaust; get a legit catback so that you get a nice sounding exhaust and are also able to pass smog. Megan Racing is the least expensive of the legit cat-back exhuast's and sounds good...at least on turbo DSM's. I'm not familiar with 420a's but if you want to get the header for the "coolness" factor and engine bay dress up; As long as it connects to to the stock cat and doesn't delete it - you should be fine. "necrotopsy" setup sounds like a good idea - you get what you pay for. As far as the MR SS material - I have their SS o2 housing on my turbo DSM and the thing still shines and looks nice so I can vouche for them in terms of good material and product.
 
i'm going with the Megan header and down-pipe 2.25, test pipe inlet 2.25 to 2.5 outlet (just passed emissions) (i will buy a 2.25 and 2.5 flange for my cat to be welded to bolt to the system) i'm getting some piping off eBay, (piping is piping) and getting a Apexi N1 welded on for clean non ricey sound. :hellyeah:
 
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