White Blueish smoke at first start up

[okm12346]

I get this just once when i first start the car for the day, and if it sits for too long and gets cold again /4-5 hours/. All starts up to 3 hours are clean.

There are clouds and clouds of smoke, most of them are white with some light blue tint and it smells bad.

Warm compression test is at 200psi all around, turbo rebuilt 3k miles ago.

It just started doing this every day, I used to get it every once in a while, but now not getting it happens not too often

I'm thinking of bad valve seals.

 

[Bluefire16]

Headgasket is my guess

 

[jjrock5]

Im thinking valve seals as well. They are JUST starting to go. At one point it will start smoking blue everytime you step on the throttle after a light for example. Not bad of a fix.

 

[blackGSX2g]

Classic valve seal symptoms. Wont affect your compression numbers. Parts are cheap, labor is not. Most machine shops around here will charge about $200 for a head rebuild/valve grind. Could probably wait it out until it warms up, then put some time aside to do that, your WP, and your timing belt components.

 

[knochgoon24]

You don't need to pull the whole head to do the valve seals? I plan on installing new ones while I am swapping cams and lifters. I am just going to feed some rope into the cylinder before putting it at TDC to hold the valve up.

There may still be some carbon on the valves, but at least the leaking oil will stop.

 

[okm12346]

Well, I maintain my car - oil changes on time, plugs and all that. I seafoam the engine every spring and when i pop the valve cover it looks like brand new.

I do see some oil on the side of the engine coming somewhere from the water pump side.

I have rebuild many DSM heads - SOHC and DOHC, and I'm waiting for the weather to get better so I can swap to DOHC head, and if it gets worse I may have to pull the head and do the HG and valve seals.

As for just swapping the valve seals when head is still on the block - I did this to my buddy's car by pressurizing the cylinders with a compressor, but in my case i'd rather pull it out and do the HG as well plus timing job for the SOHC head is much easier too

 

[knochgoon24]

I've also heard of doing the compressed air route.

 

[Spoolin18]

I'm having a similar problem, please help!

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/cylinder-head-short-block/359161-wisemen-needed-low-compression.html

 

[DSMizzy]

Putin rope in the cylinders is a old trick never seen it done. I think your still going to have to compress the springs and take the valve keys or what ever there called. to take the springs out I would say its crazy to try it takes about 2-4 hrs to re do a head and its a pain in the ass off the car could not see some one do it while its still in the car.

 

[okm12346]

On the 4g64 SOHC /spyder/ motor, the springs actually are compressed fairly easy. Last time I did it I used a $15 Pepboys valve spring compressor. The DOHC C-clamp or the bolt down type of compressors dont work

 

[knochgoon24]

Putin rope in the cylinders is a old trick never seen it done. I think your still going to have to compress the springs and take the valve keys or what ever there called. to take the springs out I would say its crazy to try it takes about 2-4 hrs to re do a head and its a pain in the ass off the car could not see some one do it while its still in the car.

The springs will still need compressed. What you do is feed some nylon rope into the cylinder then bring it up to TDC. The bundle of rope presses up against the valve, keeping it in place and making it easier to get the keeper back on after you replace the valve seal.

They make a few special tools that make it really easy to compress the springs while the head is still attached. I've seen a few DIY solutions while browsing the web that are a bit cheaper.

 

[blackGSX2g]

I've seen people do the compressed air route as well, but to be honest, if your car is to the point where it needs valve seals it will likely need timing belt components/water pump as well. Once you have to remove all those things, it's really not much more to pull the whole head and have a valve grind/resurface/new seals done. Gives you a chance to address many maintainance issues during the install.

 

[Polyol]

I've also heard of doing the compressed air route.

One problem with using compressed air. is if you retainers are stuck on the valve. Once you compress the spring it opens the valve, and you loose the pressure. Thats what happend in my case.