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Blueish smoke startup

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jeff24680

10+ Year Contributor
223
6
Jun 2, 2008
Allen Park, Michigan
As title states,



When car sits for a couple hours or so, upon first firing up a puff of blueish white-ish smoke will emit from the exhaust, literally for half a second, that's it.

It does not happen at any other time from what I have noticed.

Last time I was under my car I noticed some oil residue on the bottom of my compressor cover.

My question is, do you think the two could be related i.e. turbo is pushing a little oil after shutdown then upon startup it gets burned off immediately?

Or

Do you think this is a sign of something else?

I did do some searching and some threads mentioned valve stem seals, head-gaskets, I hope it is neither but I guess it is what it is.
 
Usually a quick puff of smoke upon startup indicates worn valve stem seals. If you have oil on the bottom of your turbo this could indicate a dying turbo as well, but most likely the puff of smoke if because of the valve stem seals.
 
I second the valve stem seals. Constant smoke when car is running indicates piston rings. Smoke only on startup indicates valve stem seals. When you shut the car off, oil will settle on top of the worn seals and slowly leak past them onto the valve heads. When you start the car, the small amount of oil will get sucked into the cylinders and burn quickly. Oil at the bottom of your turbo housing usually indicates that either the turbo is going or simply you are getting oil from the line that goes from the valve cover to the turbo intake. Most likely the latter.
 
yep like the others.. thats a classic sign of cracked/dryed out valve stem seals...
 
Well the consensus is in LOL. Thanks for quick answers guys.


I know the seals are fairly cheap. I have a friend who just made a makeshift tool for changing valves on his 2jz.

With that tool, valve seals, a knowledgeable person, and a nice afternoon. How long in labor am I looking at here?

While I'm at it is there anything else I should consider changing while I'm in there

I was thinking
  • Valve cover gasket

Any others?
 
I just changed the valve seals in my car last summer and it took myself and a friend about 2 hours. Its tricky getting those valve spring retainer clips back in. But once you get the hang of it, it goes quick. Its also a good time to change any ticking lifters while your in there.
 
personally ... I would replace the valve springs from what I have found out alot of them are weak by this age.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/341209-4g63t-valve-spring-info.html

and
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/341287-how-test-valve-springs.html

with the new valve springs the engine will rev faster and smoother.
I would reccomend the BC1100 for a quick and easy "drop in" with the stock retainers.
this quick set up will be fine for stock to a mid level cam set up anything more than that , the spring in stalled height will need to be checked and shimmed as needed for a closte tolerance installed height.

The BC1100 springs alone can be had for a very reasonable price .
 
All of the above info is correct about the valve seals, BUT some time ago my car was doing the same and it appeared, that the seal on the turbo/on the turbine side, was bad/.. So it was dripping a little oil into DP.. After a shut-off there was allways a little oil inside DP and when I start the car again, it would take few sec; until smoke disappears. Check the turbo first, period........
 
awesome thanks for the info Bogus, always like your reads.

Yah maybe I will just wait until my next "tune-Up" I am planning on doing the valve train, arps, cams, hopefully keeping the bottom end stock.

Any problems with running with these cracked seals for a bit?

**EDIT**

Thanks as well Andy I believe I will check that first as it is a little bit easier. I have been pushing my 14b pretty hard and was kinda just waiting for it to go so I could upgrade. I will take all this info into consideration.
 
Last edited:
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