Which springs should I buy?

[Pandagonier]

Just wondering which springs would be good for my car? Just had the head milled, pressure checked, new valve guides, valves, seals, and lifters. Got my head all back together to find out my valves we not closing. Tore it all back apart and measured and checked the level of the springs and they are shot. Was aiming on crower, but wanted your guys opinion on which would be good for my setup. The manley, crower, or si dual springs. Its my daily driver and I plan to take it to the track this summer, so I want something thats going to last.

 

[coltboostin]

Just wondering which springs would be good for my car? Just had the head milled, pressure checked, new valve guides, valves, seals, and lifters. Got my head all back together to find out my valves we not closing. Tore it all back apart and measured and checked the level of the springs and they are shot. Was aiming on crower, but wanted your guys opinion on which would be good for my setup. The manley, crower, or si dual springs. Its my daily driver and I plan to take it to the track this summer, so I want something thats going to last.

Even if the srpings are whooped, they valves should be all closed without the cams installed. If you indeed had the springs in, and no cams, and the valves were not closed, you have another issue.

 

[Pandagonier]

When I was putting the springs back in I put them in with a socket that I cut out, and an extension with a wrench on the end using my chest to push them down. Some of the springs were easy enough I could wrap my wrist around the bar and press them down. Once installed, over half of them I could press down with my thumb. The others I couldnt budge.

The whole reason I tore my head off my car in the first place was I just put a new MLS HG on and I was leaking oil of of it. Come to find out had a seal that was about shreaded. So I went ahead and just bought new valves, lifters, seals, and guides. I didnt think to look at the bottom of the head to see then if I had valves that were not closing.

Would a few valves not closing cause my car to idle between 3-6k all the time? Cause the last month it has been. I htought I had boost leaks, but I fixed what leaks I did have.

Did some research and just went ahead and ordered the si dual springs with manley retainers. From what I understand the manley are a close oem spring. The crower are supposed to be 15% stiffer. But I hear they are less then 5% stiffer. And the si duals are a true 15% stiffer. I kinda like the idea of less valve float if/when I miss a shift and I hit the 8-9k mark.

 

[coltboostin]

I am confused.

Just answer this. WIth all the springs correctly installed, were your valves hanging open?

 

[Pandagonier]

Yea all springs were installed right. About 7 of them were hanging open. Some of the springs I can just push down with my thumb they are so weak. When I say they are not closing, I mean they hang open enough you can damn near stick a 1/4" extension in it.

The new springs will arrive this morning. Ill install then sometime today or tomorrow and let you know if that cures the problem or not.

 

[ereckerdeet]

this sounds like quite a sight, can you take any pictures for us??

 

[coltboostin]

Yea all springs were installed right. About 7 of them were hanging open. Some of the springs I can just push down with my thumb they are so weak. When I say they are not closing, I mean they hang open enough you can damn near stick a 1/4" extension in it.

The new springs will arrive this morning. Ill install then sometime today or tomorrow and let you know if that cures the problem or not.

With the cams out?!

I have NEVER seen anything like this, unless the car had bent valves.

 

[Pandagonier]

Ok, found the problem. When I had the machine shop put in the valve guides I dont know what the hell they used, but there were little burrs and pieces of shavings in the valve guides. I took off the seals and seen some of the guides damaged. So went to my grandfasthers house measured the guides they were all different hights. So I had some new guides over-nighted grabbed the torch and took the old ones out, put the new ones in. At least mine are all closer to the same hight.

I then grinded the carbon off the seats and put the new valves back in. Everything seemed to work fine but the lifters now. They make a popping sound after you turn the cams a few times. But I soaked them in oil for a few hours then put them back in. I put the car back together started it and had to keep giving it gas to stay started (thats a whole other problem ill deal with when I get back from vacation). Once oil ran through the head for a few, I took the valve cover back off and no more popping noise form the lifters.

This is the first time in 2 years the car has actually idled below 2k, no leaks anywhere, it just wont stay started now.

 

[coltboostin]

Ok, found the problem. When I had the machine shop put in the valve guides I dont know what the hell they used, but there were little burrs and pieces of shavings in the valve guides. I took off the seals and seen some of the guides damaged. So went to my grandfasthers house measured the guides they were all different hights. So I had some new guides over-nighted grabbed the torch and took the old ones out, put the new ones in. At least mine are all closer to the same hight.

I then grinded the carbon off the seats and put the new valves back in. Everything seemed to work fine but the lifters now. They make a popping sound after you turn the cams a few times. But I soaked them in oil for a few hours then put them back in. I put the car back together started it and had to keep giving it gas to stay started (thats a whole other problem ill deal with when I get back from vacation). Once oil ran through the head for a few, I took the valve cover back off and no more popping noise form the lifters.

This is the first time in 2 years the car has actually idled below 2k, no leaks anywhere, it just wont stay started now.

Well..

1) Thought so.

2) You should "crush" the lifters befro reinsatalling to get the old oil out of them/Make sure they are in proper working order- otherwise you run the risk of hanging a valve open on initial start up.

3) As for the idle, check the basics first. Proper fuel(injector, FP, AFC compensation), strong spark, and then good compression. If you have that, find a logger and start digging.