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Which bov's are good for 26+ psi?

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Tial is great, but it requires extra to run it properly... Also doing a maf/t I have heard it causes problems with DSMlink users.[/QUOTE]



This is why i want a recirculating bov. My Forge should be here any day......now all i need is a clutch and hopefully i will have my 11sec fwd timeslip:D
 
Theres a Greddy type-r with a standar spring which is similar to the type-s/rs spring and is good for a few ponies and then theres the race spring thats only recommended for 450+hp
 
Tial is great, but it requires extra to run it properly... Also doing a maf/t I have heard it causes problems with DSMlink users.[/QUOTE]



This is why i want a recirculating bov. My Forge should be here any day......now all i need is a clutch and hopefully i will have my 11sec fwd timeslip:D

I run both a maf-t and DSMLink and can tell you from experience that while it does take some calibration of the maft, it doesn't really cause any problems with DSMLink for me. it's all in the tuning. I would overflow a stock 2g maf with my setup, so I had to go with something different.
 
people337 said:
recerculation is over rated







Care to inform the rest of us as to why? Have any solid information to support your statement?


Making a blatant statement and not giving rational reasons is virtually worthless.
 
well when I ran my stock gst with the hks SSQV without recerculating and there was not a problem at all. before when i ran my 1g bov i needed to recerculate.
sorry about the blanket statement earlier. does anyone know why this is true?
 
people337 said:
well when I ran my stock gst with the hks SSQV without recerculating and there was not a problem at all. before when i ran my 1g bov i needed to recerculate.
sorry about the blanket statement earlier. does anyone know why this is true?





Just because you didn't "feel" a difference doesn't mean the ECU wasn't dumping excess fuel into the combustion chambers.



http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=113858
http://dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=89000
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?postid=5284#post5284
 
Do genuine HKS SSQVs flutter so much at lower boost? Mine constantly flutters.
Yes, mine does a lot, i actually think its compressor surge but ive adjusted the screw a few times and it has done nothing (i read somewhere before that the screw is mainly for looks but i wanted to give it a shot anyways) At low boost/throttle when i let off my car will studder a little bit. Its almost making me want to go back to an RS.
 
I was recently informed of this article.


Some of you who are wondering why certain things happen in relation to the RV should read this through.
 
Tial is great, but it requires extra to run it properly... Also doing a maf/t I have heard it causes problems with DSMlink users.


No problems here running a maft in a blow through position with link. It all comes down to having it properly compensated for.

Diambo that's not the same. You run 2 :rolleyes:

Are they both modded or just the one?
 
No problems here running a maft in a blow through position with link. It all comes down to having it properly compensated for.

Diambo that's not the same. You run 2 :rolleyes:

Are they both modded or just the one?

*goes back and re-reads title of thread*

How is it "not the same?" It cost me less than half the price of one HKS SSQV BOV to set up my stock BOVs and they work BETTER? Please explain why "that's not the same?" :|

Both of them are Gus modded of course. :sosad:
 
Haven't been on this forum for awhile...

Concerning the lock-ring on our valves, the revised part has replaced the original design on the production line so the only area for concern would be stock that people have had on the shelf for more than a few months. If you do receive one just contact us and we can either rebuild your unit or send you the new piece.

As far as the springs, here is the official word. Most of our vehicle specific valves retail for $170 and include a single spring. This can be ANY of our springs but there will always be a default spring that we build all of the valves with, if you want one other than the default it needs to be specified when you order. We also sell a spring tuning kit that retails for $15 that includes four springs, rated from 5-40 psi, and three shims.

The ONLY valve that we make that includes different springs is the 007 which is a 25mm replacement for OEM Bosch valves. Any company that includes extra springs with valves other than that is doing so out of the goodness of their hearts... or to entice you to buy from them :)

The springs are rated as follows:
Black - Less than 10 (this was designed for a single application and is VERY light)
Green 5-15
Yellow 15-23
Blue 23-30
Red 30+

The exception to all of this spring business is our Optimus valve and our RS valve which both have provisions to set spring tension with a ratcheting knob. The first is available only in Japan... the second is big with the EVO guys

We also have quite a few different flanges for the RS and the DSM valve including a GReddy style flange.
 
I know I'm adding to a dead thread, but for referance as of April 19'th 2007 Extreme motorsports is still supplying the green and the blue springs as well as the yellow spring which comes installed in the Forge bov. Definately a great product, and I can't wait to test it out on the car.
 
We've actually started to include the springs as standard with all of the DSM valves now. Each should ship with the spring in side the valve and two others as well as two shims. The springs included should be the following:

Yellow - 15-23
Blue - 23-30
Red 30+

This may be of interest to those running a GReddy style flange:
http://www.forgemotorsport.com/content.asp?inc=product&cat=0806&product=FMDVRSK
Our RS valve can be built with a 34mm port for the 2nd gen and EVO guys, a 1st gen flange, a Greddy style flange and includes the necessary ports and internal components to run both atmo or recirc. The price is also set to be lowered to $255 soon.
 
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