when i turn the key all i hear is clicking

[smokeyjpn221]

ok so i was workin on gettin my car to start up and one time when i went and turned the key all i heard was one 'click' i had the battery checked and it was fine so then i took the starter off and had it checked and it was fine. has anyone had this problem? i need the help asap ### i'm tryin to sell my car. thanks for all the help!

 

[ilco187]

sounds like a grounding problem.

 

[Calan]

Maybe this will help:

What is causing that irritating noise.

 

[smokeyjpn221]

sounds like a grounding problem.

all my ground wires are hooked up

 

[97eclipseNT]

Could be a few problems. i would look towards a ground issue like stated before or check to see if you have any corrosion in the battery wire going to the starter. if you check the voltage drop in that wire it should be less than one volt. Either way it doesn't sound like your starter is getting the full 12v.

 

[smokeyjpn221]

Maybe this will help:

What is causing that irritating noise.

that doesn't really address my issue...like i said it only clicks once and all the fuses are good. the only thing i haven't checked is the starter relay and solenoid

 

[smokeyjpn221]

Could be a few problems. i would look towards a ground issue like stated before or check to see if you have any corrosion in the battery wire going to the starter. if you check the voltage drop in that wire it should be less than one volt. Either way it doesn't sound like your starter is getting the full 12v.

i mean it was workin just fine and then it just stopped...really weird and annoying

 

[Calan]

that doesn't really address my issue...

"You hear a loud clicking type noise from under the hood when you try to start the car. Probably a weak battery or a starter issue. Also check the fuses in the engine bay. Note that the ISC (Idle Speed Control) on the thottle body can also sometimes click."

How is that not addressing your issue?

Measure the voltage at the starter like Mike mentioned, and the relays.

 

[DSM1G90]

Bet the negative connection on the battery isn't tightly secured and that will weaken the current to the starter..

Undo both battery connections, clean them up to shiny lead and also clean the battery posts. Reconnect them down securely and see what happens. Also, the wires coming off the battey connectors have to be clean with no corrosion on them. Any corrosion will cause this problem as well.

Good Luck - DSM

 

[GsXdSmKingGsX]

Your battery is probably weak or dead. It can be from bad connectors, bad wiring, or that your alternator isnt charging your battery anymore

 

[big_d]

Take a look at the pedal assembly and see where the clutch meets the clutch switch. Mitsu put a rubber knob type thingy on the clutch pedal which pushes against the dowel. If this falls out the dowel for the clutch switch fits perfectly in the hole on the clutch pedal. Mine did it in my 90 on an auto-x course so I ended up putting a zip tie through the hole to fill the gap. There is also a good thread on here about bypassing the starter relay also (which disables the clutch switch).

 

[motozachl]

i can't find my thread on it but this happened to me once. all i did to fix it was wiggle a little red&green connector up under the dash near the stearing column. i have no idea what it is or how, but could've had to do something with the securty system somehow

 

[t25fury]

Take a look at the pedal assembly and see where the clutch meets the clutch switch. Mitsu put a rubber knob type thingy on the clutch pedal which pushes against the dowel. If this falls out the dowel for the clutch switch fits perfectly in the hole on the clutch pedal. Mine did it in my 90 on an auto-x course so I ended up putting a zip tie through the hole to fill the gap. .

I second this notion.

 

[sarge281]

Try the solenoid. I'll give you pretty good odds that's your culprit. Here's why I say this: I have the same problem. I checked the steering wheel column for loose wires, I checked the neutral safety switch (clutch starter switch), I checked the starter, all that. It was my solenoid going out. I still have the same problem today. See, I looped my neutral safety switch, so it starts just by turning the key, like an automatic does.

Try holding the clutch in, and starting turning the key every other second. Crank, then wait one or two seconds, then crank again. Try this for a minute or two. But be sure to have a multi-meter ready to check the level of your battery. This can drain some juice from it pretty quickly. On my Talon, the starter tests fine, too. There's nothing wrong with it. The solenoid is going out...sometimes it works, sometimes not. I just have to turn the key a couple times, and eventually, it'll crank. Trust me, it's not the optimum way, but it's working so far.

Don't quote me on it, but I believe nowadays the solenoid comes built into the starter. I priced shops around here, and they told me that they could replace the solenoid, but it would cost around $120-150. But you can get a rebuilt starter from Autozone for around $80-85. And it will have a working solenoid in it. I'm not sure, but I think you have to remove the tb-intake mani-plenum to get to the starter...it's bolted onto the transmission. Since mine's a daily driver, I can't/am too lazy to fix it right now.

Hell, try everything everyone here has said. What's the worst can happen, it won't start? It's doing that anyways. Also, I think "Snowboarder" had a thread a while back about identifying plugs and sensors (most under the hood) a while back. (Good stuff, 'Boarder) The harness & sensor "plug/cap" that goes from your main elec. harness to the starter solenoid is listed on there. Maybe you could research it, find it & give it a good cleaning and see what that does. Can't hurt.

Good luck.

 

[smokeyjpn221]

"You hear a loud clicking type noise from under the hood when you try to start the car. Probably a weak battery or a starter issue. Also check the fuses in the engine bay. Note that the ISC (Idle Speed Control) on the thottle body can also sometimes click."

How is that not addressing your issue?

Measure the voltage at the starter like Mike mentioned, and the relays.

because the battery is fully charged and the starter is fine. i'm checking the starter solenoid now.

 

[Calan]

because the battery is fully charged and the starter is fine. i'm checking the starter solenoid now.

It's still a battery or starter related issue, even if it is something in the wiring, a relay, etc.

I'll change the wording in the article

 

[smokeyjpn221]

Try the solenoid. I'll give you pretty good odds that's your culprit. Here's why I say this: I have the same problem. I checked the steering wheel column for loose wires, I checked the neutral safety switch (clutch starter switch), I checked the starter, all that. It was my solenoid going out. I still have the same problem today. See, I looped my neutral safety switch, so it starts just by turning the key, like an automatic does.

Try holding the clutch in, and starting turning the key every other second. Crank, then wait one or two seconds, then crank again. Try this for a minute or two. But be sure to have a multi-meter ready to check the level of your battery. This can drain some juice from it pretty quickly. On my Talon, the starter tests fine, too. There's nothing wrong with it. The solenoid is going out...sometimes it works, sometimes not. I just have to turn the key a couple times, and eventually, it'll crank. Trust me, it's not the optimum way, but it's working so far.

Don't quote me on it, but I believe nowadays the solenoid comes built into the starter. I priced shops around here, and they told me that they could replace the solenoid, but it would cost around $120-150. But you can get a rebuilt starter from Autozone for around $80-85. And it will have a working solenoid in it. I'm not sure, but I think you have to remove the tb-intake mani-plenum to get to the starter...it's bolted onto the transmission. Since mine's a daily driver, I can't/am too lazy to fix it right now.

Hell, try everything everyone here has said. What's the worst can happen, it won't start? It's doing that anyways. Also, I think "Snowboarder" had a thread a while back about identifying plugs and sensors (most under the hood) a while back. (Good stuff, 'Boarder) The harness & sensor "plug/cap" that goes from your main elec. harness to the starter solenoid is listed on there. Maybe you could research it, find it & give it a good cleaning and see what that does. Can't hurt.

Good luck.

thanks! that's a lot of valuable information!

 

[smokeyjpn221]

It's still a battery or starter related issue, even if it is something in the wiring, a relay, etc.

I'll change the wording in the article

ok cool!

 

[vanilla gorilla]

Solenoid??? No, I thought you said you had the starter checked and it was fine? The solenoid is made onto the starter, if there was a problem with it then it would have shown.

 

[smokeyjpn221]

Solenoid??? No, I thought you said you had the starter checked and it was fine? The solenoid is made onto the starter, if there was a problem with it then it would have shown.

yeah but the solenoid engages the starter with the flywheel

 

[babyjoker]

Bet the negative connection on the battery isn't tightly secured and that will weaken the current to the starter..

Undo both battery connections, clean them up to shiny lead and also clean the battery posts. Reconnect them down securely and see what happens. Also, the wires coming off the battey connectors have to be clean with no corrosion on them. Any corrosion will cause this problem as well.

Good Luck - DSM

I had this same issue not too long ago, thought it was the starter, that checked out, battery was good, i replaced both the battery terminals just too be sure and it started up nice and strong.

 

[EagleTalon1993]

Alot of good advice here, I would agree that it's more than likely a bad or corroded conection either the ground wire/terminal or where the positive terminal meets the fuse cluster. (Mine was very corroded underneath out of sight when I took it apart and checked it)

 

[smokeyjpn221]

correct me if i'm wrong but what i'm gathering from this is that if there is ANY corrosion it won't work? if this is true i still don't understand how it could go from being completely fine to not working in a matter of 3 seconds

 

[DSM1G90]

Yes, very true: wire has to be clean and tight to make a good circuit - done a lot of house rewring from the outside panel to individual outlets..

Another thing where this can point to, as mentioned above, is the selenoid - the plunger contacts in the selenoid:

When you hit the key, the current from the battery goes through the selenoid coil to pull the plunger, which as a contacter ring on it, which make a complete circuit across the two contacts in the selenoid body. One contact comes from the battery, and the other contact is attached to the electric motor of the starter. This complete circuit allows the 12v from the battery to swing the motor while the plunger pushes the starter pinon into the flywheel - they work together to turn over the engine...practially all starters made are designed like this.

NOW, do you have positive connection from the key to the selenoid? There should be a small wire that is attached to a lug on back of the selenoid.

See what happens ... good luck - DSM

 

[sarge281]

Yes, very true: wire has to be clean and tight to make a good circuit - done a lot of house rewring from the outside panel to individual outlets..

Another thing where this can point to, as mentioned above, is the selenoid - the plunger contacts in the selenoid:

When you hit the key, the current from the battery goes through the selenoid coil to pull the plunger, which as a contacter ring on it, which make a complete circuit across the two contacts in the selenoid body. One contact comes from the battery, and the other contact is attached to the electric motor of the starter. This complete circuit allows the 12v from the battery to swing the motor while the plunger pushes the starter pinon into the flywheel - they work together to turn over the engine...practially all starters made are designed like this.

NOW, do you have positive connection from the key to the selenoid? There should be a small wire that is attached to a lug on back of the selenoid.

See what happens ... good luck - DSM

Good description, DSM1G90... spot on. I thought about attempting to describe the operation of the solenoid, but figured I'd come off like a total tool while doing so. (Even more than usual) I will add, that I used to have a 1G Laser (1.8l), and it had battery teminal corrosion issues. One day it just quit cranking. Turns out the Negative terminal was a little corroded and loose. I broke out the dremel with the little s.s. wire brush, knocked the crud off, and it fired right up. Down here in South Texas it's humid as hell, so I have to do that every once in a while to all my vehicles. smokeyjpn221, hope you find your culprit, like I said, good luck.