The Central Hub for DSM Community and Information

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. This is where the DSM platform history is documented and archived. Log in to help us in our mission, and to remove most ads from the browsing experience.

When do you shift? [Merged 7-8] points shifting revs point

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

It depends whether I'm going uphill, downhill, or the ground is flat. On flat ground I usually shift between 2.5-3.5K. Going downhill I shift between 1.5-2.5. Going uphill I shift at 3-4K. I usually keep my RPMs at 1.5-3K while cruising. Again, it depends on the angle of the incline/decline. If I feel like being an asshole, then I shift anywhere from 5-7K. =)
 
Everyday driving is around 3.5 in everygear. I dont hit full boost till 3,700 and if I stay out it gets me better gas consumption.


As for the gearing, the FWD and AWD differ alot. I have had both in the same car and the difference is very noticeable in ALL gears. ;)
 
I'm starting to lean toward shifting at 2.5k in all gears. It really depends on my mood. I guess it's usually around 3k. I used to shift at 3.5k in 1st, then ride out 2nd to 40kph, but if I take 2nd that far I almost always hear my BOV and gas prices are really high here now so I decided to save some fuel and stay out of boost.
 
If you always shift at a set RPM, you are not driving the car right.

You want to shift at the rpm that will allow the next gear to have the power required at the current throttle position or rate of acceleration.

Basically, shift where you want to. If you're going balls-out, shift at the optimum shift point near redline. If you want to get the best gas milage possible, shift as low as you possibly can without the motor bogging in the next gear. If you're doing something in between, shift in between.
 
i used to shift right at redline. but now that i noticed i hold boost solid past redline (22 psi), i shift right before rev limiter. 7300 ish. better get used to it cause with hks 272/272's on the way shifting that high is a must. :cool:
 
i see how all people asume that hes talking about racing all the time



driving regularly: 3000 to 4000 rpm
racing: 6500 rpm
 
Aren't our 420A bretheren limited to 6250?

I know NT 4G63's will rev higher than 6250, But my old friend in his Neon said he couldn't rev past 6200.

I dunno.

Shift when lateral acceleration has ceased, another words if you are not gaining speed, shift.

I shift where ever feels best for my mood, stupid van load of step children beside me....downshift from 4th to 2nd and get-tha F away., if not might find Bubble-Yum in my passenger seat!!

whatever.

gsxtacy
 
Well, I saw one person give a close to correct answer to this question. At least they said that you want to stay in the power band.
To properly answer your question, we would first need to put YOUR car on a dyno and have YOU run it. Why you may ask? Well the answer is simple..
Your car needs to be dynoed to see where it's power band is in each gear.
YOU need to be running it because we need to see how fast YOU are able to get from gear to gear.
Statagy: You want to take the engine to the tip of the power band and not past it. This is where you are getting the most power. If you pass it, you actually start losing power.
If you are a slower shifter, you may want to go just slightly past the tip of your power band... That way the RPMs can drop a bit while you hunt for that next gear and hopfully be right about the tip when you find the gear and release the clutch.
Anyway.. there isn't a proper RPM to shift a DSM.... There is, however, a proper RPM at which to shift YOUR dsm.
ALL cars a different, even if they have the same engine and mods.
Remember.... most of the people that hit the redline, are actually over shooting thier powerband (power curve) and are actually slowing themselves down.
Ken
 
gsxtacy said:
Aren't our 420A bretheren limited to 6250?

I know NT 4G63's will rev higher than 6250, But my old friend in his Neon said he couldn't rev past 6200.

I dunno.

Shift when lateral acceleration has ceased, another words if you are not gaining speed, shift.

I shift where ever feels best for my mood, stupid van load of step children beside me....downshift from 4th to 2nd and get-tha F away., if not might find Bubble-Yum in my passenger seat!!

whatever.

gsxtacy


Iknow my 420a Eclipse exceeds this rpm at least on a weekly basis.
 
BGRIPTP said:
I think the rev limiter is like around 7800 for the 420a's.

7250 or 7300 is rev limiter on the 420A. Also no speed limiter (not really needed).
 
Theb95tsi said:
i see how all people asume that hes talking about racing all the time



driving regularly: 3000 to 4000 rpm
racing: 6500 rpm

I used to shift at around 3000 when driving, and my dad told me I could be causing harm to the engine, because I'm not getting anywhere close to where it begins to make more power. So, before the clutch started slipping, I began shifting a bit higher (hard to know exactly how high you shift without a tach :p)

I've never raced though, so I can't tell you where I shift, but they're right about the powerband. There's no point in taking your car into RPMs that simply make no power. I remember reading for a stock 1g, the best time to shift is around 6000 for the powerband. I'm not sure if this is completely true, but I thought I'd throw it out there.
 
As mentioned shift points should Ideally change by gearing. The gearing of each specific gear should be the indication of shift point, not one sole rpm to hit in every gear. Ideally you should shift at the point where the wheel torque in the next gear at the entering RPM would be greater then the wheel torque in the current gear at the next rpm. This means that depending on the change in gearing for each gear should determine how long you should stay in each gear. For example, 1st gear is very short, therefore you should hold it longer in that gear than you would in 2nd gear, so say 6800rpms in 1st as opposed to 6500 in 2nd. Ideally as mentioned 4 seperate dyno plots would be perfect for determining the perfect shift points, but for many people this is difficult. Stock cams tend to kill any turbo at around 6500rpms, and obviously the T25 dies off even earlier than that. Larger turbos will keep the wheel torque up longer, as will cams and SMIM's, therefore shifting higher with those particular parts is better. However shift points are entirely dependant on each person's setup and gearing. Hope that helps answer your question and give you a better idea.
 
16g-95gsx said:
As mentioned shift points should Ideally change by gearing. The gearing of each specific gear should be the indication of shift point, not one sole rpm to hit in every gear. Ideally you should shift at the point where the wheel torque in the next gear at the entering RPM would be greater then the wheel torque in the current gear at the next rpm. This means that depending on the change in gearing for each gear should determine how long you should stay in each gear. For example, 1st gear is very short, therefore you should hold it longer in that gear than you would in 2nd gear, so say 6800rpms in 1st as opposed to 6500 in 2nd. Ideally as mentioned 4 seperate dyno plots would be perfect for determining the perfect shift points, but for many people this is difficult. Stock cams tend to kill any turbo at around 6500rpms, and obviously the T25 dies off even earlier than that. Larger turbos will keep the wheel torque up longer, as will cams and SMIM's, therefore shifting higher with those particular parts is better. However shift points are entirely dependant on each person's setup and gearing. Hope that helps answer your question and give you a better idea.
exactly :cool:
 
Coup D E'Tat said:
The 1/8 mile doesn't count.

:cool:

I agree 100%.... that's why i'm talking about the 1/4 mile. There are several 420A powered 2Gs that spank the 4G63T powed 1G and 2Gs on a regular basis.
Ken
 
There are several 420A powered 2Gs that spank the 4G63T powed 1G and 2Gs on a regular basis.

.................... and then i got high, and then i got high and then i got hiiiggggghhh la da da da da da

(as quoted by afroman)
 
lowridin2g said:
There are several 420A powered 2Gs that spank the 4G63T powed 1G and 2Gs on a regular basis.

.................... and then i got high, and then i got high and then i got hiiiggggghhh la da da da da da

(as quoted by afroman)

You, obviously, don't do much research other than here on this board.
 
wow this turned into a 420a vs. 4g63 arguement REAL quick.

yes there are 10 second 420a's, and yes there at 10 second 4g's... leave it at that please :cry:

back on topic, on a 14b shift right before redline, on a shitt t25, shift at 6k. i pull until about 7.1k-7.2k when racing.
 
Mine was simply a joke. Built 420a's can be powerful, just like anything else.

But yes, let's just drop it before it's locked.
 
Add Value - Be Respectful - No Trolling - No Misinformation - Participate Often!
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community

Build Thread Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top