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What turbo, etc should I use to build a 500hp 4g63

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94talonturbo

Probationary Member
3
0
Nov 29, 2008
charleston, South Carolina
Im a newbe here and building a 94 talon for street use. I shoting for a even 500hp and 500 torque while still using a A/C and powersteering. I dont want to big of a turbo or to small, mabe a gt30? Also what size exhaust piping could I use and wastegate mm, turbonetics evo wategate mabe? Fuel injector size would be helpfull as well. On ebay they have tubeular SS turbo headers for around 200 bucks, but can I use one of these with my A/C and PS? I have a tore down 6 bolt motor thats in great condition but still going to be overbore and I will be using wiseco pistions. Is 86mm ok to bore to or should I go 85.5? I will be using the stock crank and lighting and balancing it as well, is this ok to do on this crank? I will be giong with aftermarket rods, so wich ones are the best and cheapest for the 500-600hp range? The awd transmission will be sent off to TRE TRANSMISSIONS INC for a rebuild and I have read that there is a evo 3 gear set, is this worth the money? The transmission will already be around 2500$ as it is for there standard high-preformance rebuild. The transfer case seems to be fine but will it need work as well? my rear is a 4 bolt lsd is it ok for 500hp? Thanks for everybodys help.
 
To answer some of your questions, GT35r is a pretty good turbo to achieve your power goal. Or you can look into an Holset HX40 if your on a budget. For the exhaust piping, 3" is good. For the fuel, I'd go with 1000cc or bigger. A .020 bore is pretty good. The rear end and transfer case will be fine.
 
I'd say eagle or magnus rods, they seem to be the popular choice around here, and don't skimp out on a manifold from ebay, get a decent quality one from a reputable vedor, you don't want to blow the welds off a cheapo
 
Why are you worried about bore size? The only reason you'd need to choose 86mm over 85.5mm is if your cylinders needed that much overbore in order to be straight for proper ring seal from top to bottom.

.5mm = .020", or about the thickness of (4) sheets of notebook paper. How much power could that possibly add?


I would say HX40 turbo w/ Bullseye T3-flanged turbine housing, full T3 manifold (NOT eBay), external gate, stock 6-bolt rods will be fine or Eagles mated to Wiseco 9.0:1 pistons. Throw lots of money into the head with GOOD porting, valves, retainers, springs, and cams, then buy an OEM MLS head gasket and ARP studs. Run 30-35psi, meth injection, and you'll be surprised what you can do on pump gas!
 
boring your engine over isn't going to give you any noticeable power gains, what so ever.

To answer some of your questions, GT35r is a pretty good turbo to achieve your power goal. Or you can look into an Holset HX40 if your on a budget

Not to mention it's proven the Holset spools QUICKER.
 
I'd say eagle or magnus rods, they seem to be the popular choice around here, and don't skimp out on a manifold from ebay, get a decent quality one from a reputable vedor, you don't want to blow the welds off a cheapo

You do realize that Magnus rods are well over twice as much as Eagles ($770 for a set of 4 versus around $340 for eagles)? They would be totally overkill in this application. I would say the Eagle/Wiseco combination would be fine. People have put down well over 500awhp with stock internals, so if you have a well put together Eagle/Wiseco setup you'll be set. You can definitely put down that much power on a 35R, a 30R can make that much with a great tune and decent gas. Other options are the BW258 or Holset HX-40. Also realize that at those power levels it is extremely rare to have even HP/TQ numbers, these aren't v-8s, we typically make much more HP than TQ once we start making decent power. Do a little searching, read through the tuning guide, and you'll find a lot of your questions here are already answered.
 
I'll say do a lot of research..!!! I'm doing the same for my self as I will be building my GSX. I thought I could just send it to any machine shop and chit but no! You need to know your informations on how to build a proper DSM(4g63) engine. You don't want to mickey mouse it and end up blowing a motor for not improperly building it. I been researching on tunning, whats a good stoke size ,and also how to get a block surfaced and machine good, ect ect. I believe thats the first key THE BLOCK
 
The block really shouldn't be all that hard for a competent machine shop to do, just follow the specs provided by the manufacturers of your pistons/rods. The only caveat to that is that some people had issues with Wiseco pistons and cracked cylinder walls, I believe the issue was that the piston to wall clearance was on the tight side of the recommended spec and ended up cracking, so the best thing would be to run the Wisecos on the looser side of the recommended clearance, yet still within the clearance spec. The head, however, you should leave to someone with experience with 4G63 heads and/or a CNC machine. If a block is built correctly it will produce around the same power as any other well-sorted block with similar compression (aside from variances in piston head design/coating), the head, however, is what determines how much air an engine flows, therefore how much power it makes and where in the RPM range it makes it. If you want to get down to it, the head is the key, not the block.
 
Back in my motocross days, I carried a sponsorship from Wiseco. At the time, many riders claimed Wiseco's were junk for the very reason stated by kahl23....the forged pistons would literally wedge themselves in the bore if they weren't warmed up properly. This is known as a cold seizure....the crown of the piston expands rapidly if you start the engine cold and run it hard immediately without proper warmup. The crown literally wedges itself into the cylinder wall if your tolerances are tight enough.

I've always found Wiseco's products to be excellent in both quality and durability. I always warmed my bikes up properly before a race, and I used a racing-specific oil mixed with racing gasoline. Wiseco never let me down in 13 years of motocross, and I plan on putting Wiseco pistons in my AWD project as well.
 
Yep, for the record we run Wiseco/Eagles and never have had an issue. The motor has been in and out a few times (unfortunately) and everything looks perfect on the cylinder walls.
 
And good luck building 500WHP with AC and etc... You live in the south, man. Look around , do some research. Seems like your concern is how to spend less money/ E-bay header/ and make the car nice and with some good power. This is a NO NO. Make everything right from the very beginning.
 
The ebay manifold that I was looking at would be the only thaing that I would be using from ebay and its stainless steel with good looking welds. I just left the world of turboing honda engines (LS 1.8 non-vtec) and never had a problem with any exhaust manifold from ebay, but I have always used everthaing else name brand, usally turbonetics. The turbo that I have now is quite small for the power that I am looking at, its a t3/t4 one size under a 60-1. Great turbo for a weaker honda block but not so much for the Iron 6 bolt so I will be upsizing in turbo size. These honda blocks just dont last under more than 14psi of boost, headgasket issues, heavy cylinder side wear, one problem after another and its sooooo expensive. My machine shop loves it though as they keep making the $$$$$$ off the machine work. I've gone through 3 aluminum blocks in 4 years and finaly its time to move up to a engine that was made for turbocharging. The piston to wall clearance that has worked best for me is .0032 with the wiseco's and never had a problem with the pistons them selves, and yes I ran them in my 2 stroke CR's dirtbikes as well and the worked great. As for turbos the new turbonetics gtk series looks good and but anybody use them here? I want a quick spool like the t3/t4 that I'm used to using (full spool at 3200rpms) can I still get that with a larger ballbearing turbo? There is a much better cam selection with the 4g63's that the honda motors. Which ones would be the best to use for my setup? As for the head I already had it done, I bought new stanless valves and had the seats/stem seals redone, also the spring presures were all checked and everythaing looks brand new. I could always get a port/polish job done would it be worth the power gains? Also, I have the 1g head, somone told me that the 2g head was better and that I should have done the work to that one, is this true? One last question, I'm going to buy new lifters and I was told the 3g lifter set is what I want is this right as well? Thanks again everybody, this site is great!
 
For your setup 272/272 cams should be fine for your goals, but you can also definitely run bigger cams. You could gain some from a port/polish job, but make sure your porter knows the 4G63 head, I would rather have a stock or near stock head than one ported by someone who has no idea what they were doing. Stock heads have also made good power too, so it's up to you. As far as the 1g/2g head debate goes there is a debate as to which one is actually better. Some say the 2g head has a much better port design than the 1g and is an overall better head when the ports are opened up, others say that the 1g head with it's larger ports is actually a better head, YMMV. Our BJ's ported 1g head just died, and I would've loved to run a 2g head to see what it could do, but the necessary changes to run it (new SMIM, new UICP, etc) mean its easier to just source another 1g head. Good luck with your decision, If you have a 1g head, you might want to just go ahead and run that, it's not like people haven't run very fast on 1g heads.
 
GT35r Will get you there, now all you need is supporting mods and build up your engine.
 
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