what oil should I use for break in on new motor?

[vteckiller92tsi]

I am working on my new rebuild just sent the head and the block to the machine shop. the block was honed thats about it i used the 2g pistons. And for the head i replace everything i used the 3g lifters and all. So what oil should i use to break this motor in and what weight should i use after I do the first oil change?

 

[donniekak]

I use supertech 10-30 to break in all my new engines. Around 50 miles, or the 3rd, or 4th change, i go to a good dyno oil until after 500, when i use valvoline vr1 synthetic, or rotella t 5w-40 synthetic.

 

['97boostinGST]

Ive read many threads saying to either use Brad Penn oil, or dinosaur oil...aka..regular oil.
Viscosity, i think it really comes down to the temperature in your area.

 

[b00stedAWD]

I use Brad Penn break in oil.

 

[vteckiller92tsi]

ok thanks alot yeah I am from the east coast so when it's warm it's warm when it's cold it's damn cold.

 

[yoshi_tony]

just use regular oil not synthetic until 1000 miles im using castrol 10w-40 im going with the AMS break in instructions
heres a link
http://www.amsperformance.com/instructions/EngineBreakInInstructions.pdf

 

[V12 Killa]

There are break-in engine oils from Royal Purple and etc, but I used regular conventional oil 10-30w and changed regularly. After the break-in point switch to synthetic oil.

 

[JusMX141]

Non-detergent SAE30 to the 50-mile mark, conventional 10W30 to the 3,000-mile mark, then resume with your favorite synthetic.

 

[2GFWDbeast]

I used joe gibbs break-in BR-30 oil. Did the first oil change at 500 miles. Then used valvoline zr1 oil.

 

[DSMTyson]

Follw the advice of jusmx141. You dont need any special oil to break in an engine, its going to be changed often anyways why waste money? Change your oil at 50, 250, 500, then put in your oil of choice. I run Valvoline VR-1 20W-50 Racing Oil. A lot of people recommend Brad Penn, it is also a great oil with high zinc and phosphorus. It all just depends on what you feel like paying for.

And don't baby the motor. It needs to see boost. Break in at around 10-15 psi and gradually turn it up when the rings start to seat if you are planning for a high boost/high horsepower engine.

 

[Chuck981]

royal purple

 

[kidtsi]

To brake in an engine do not use synthetic, to tell you exactly what weight and viscosity i need to know you rod bearing and main bearing clearances.

 

[2GFWDbeast]

Besides not using synthetic oils to do the initial break-in. I honestly dont think there is a right and wrong oil, and a right and wrong procedure. I was told by my machine shop to do it at 500 miles. Everyone else thinks to do so at a much lower mileage, and multiple times.

I was told so many things like ahh your turbo is going be blown. My car is perfectly fine, turbo is fine, and runs great. I was told that if i cut my oil filter open that there would be tons of metal shavings in it. Well i cut it open and there was none that i could see. Doesn't mean there was anyone in it, but i was told by many people on here that there would be chunks of metal shavings.

Like seriously if you have that big of shavings in your oil, you did something wrong. Plan and simple.

 

[Calan]

It needs to see boost. Break in at around 10-15 psi and gradually turn it up when the rings start to seat if you are planning for a high boost/high horsepower engine.

Boost has nothing to do with it really, although a little bit of boost pressure isn't a bad thing. The engine needs to see alternating cycles of acceleration under moderate loads and deceleration under engine breaking. After it warms up, take the engine up to about 5000 RPMs under moderate acceleration, and then coast down to 1500 RPM's or so with engine braking. Repeating this 10 times or so will help the rings find their happy place. After that, drive the car like you normally would; don't race the piss out of it, but don't baby it either.

You also want to make sure that you have everything ready to go and all the basics covered before cranking it over. Once you turn the key, it should only be a matter of a few minutes (time enough for the engine to warm up) before you're on the road and running it under load. Letting a new engine idle for half an hour while you tweak the timing and diddle around with other stuff can be as bad for it as not breaking it in at all.

Also don't forget to re-torque the head bolts, and go back over the VC and oil pan bolts a few times as well. You'll also want to pay extra attention and check the obvious things often (t-belt tension, oil leaks, coolant level, accessory belts, etc).

I honestly dont think there is a right and wrong oil, and a right and wrong procedure. I was told by my machine shop to do it at 500 miles. Everyone else thinks to do so at a much lower mileage, and multiple times. I was told so many things like ahh your turbo is going be blown. My car is perfectly fine, turbo is fine, and runs great. I was told that if i cut my oil filter open that there would be tons of metal shavings in it. Well i cut it open and there was none that i could see. Doesn't mean there was anyone in it, but i was told by many people on here that there would be chunks of metal shavings.

Like seriously if you have that big of shavings in your oil, you did something wrong. Plan and simple.

If you're referring to the thread I think you are, then

1). Everyone else was right, and your machine shop was blatantly wrong (if it wasn't just miscommunication). Considering that the majority of wear on a new engine occurs in the first 20 minutes of running it (or 20 miles of normal driving), waiting until 500 miles to change the oil on a brand new build is just stupid and asking for trouble...no matter how you slice it. Why you refused to believe this in the other thread (even with countless people trying to explain the logic of it to you) is beyond me. But that is your engine to do what you want with; it doesn't mean that you should come into this poster's thread and imply that it's a good idea: it's not.

2). Nobody told you there would be "tons of metal shavings" in the filter as far as I know. Just because you can't see pieces of pistons floating in the oil doesn't mean it isn't contaminated. BTW, how can you see the large quantity of unburned hydrocarbons and fuel that blew past those unseated rings and saturated the oil during the first several thousand revolutions of the motor?

3). There most definitely is a right way and a wrong way to do things, whether you choose to believe it or not. Again, that's your choice.... but you shouldn't be handing out bad advice just because "I honestly dont think there is a right and wrong oil, and a right and wrong procedure".

Ok... flame off now. And nothing personal.

 

[TSiAWD666]

For my 2.3l stroker Magnus recommended 10w30 non-synthetic for my first use and first two oil changes, then switching over to 20w50 synthetic for summer and 10w30 synthetic for winter. Oil changes were at 25, 500, 1500, then every 3000. Initial 500 miles I'm not to baby it, but not really push the engine either, just varying the rpm, and using compression to slow down the car.

 

[Yamahaulin]

I like to add a zinc additive, helps with break in.

 

[2GFWDbeast]

Boost has nothing to do with it really, although a little bit of boost pressure isn't a bad thing. The engine needs to see alternating cycles of acceleration under moderate loads and deceleration under engine breaking. After it warms up, take the engine up to about 5000 RPMs under moderate acceleration, and then coast down to 1500 RPM's or so with engine braking. Repeating this 10 times or so will help the rings find their happy place. After that, drive the car like you normally would; don't race the piss out of it, but don't baby it either.

You also want to make sure that you have everything ready to go and all the basics covered before cranking it over. Once you turn the key, it should only be a matter of a few minutes (time enough for the engine to warm up) before you're on the road and running it under load. Letting a new engine idle for half an hour while you tweak the timing and diddle around with other stuff can be as bad for it as not breaking it in at all.

Also don't forget to re-torque the head bolts, and go back over the VC and oil pan bolts a few times as well. You'll also want to pay extra attention and check the obvious things often (t-belt tension, oil leaks, coolant level, accessory belts, etc).



If you're referring to the thread I think you are, then

1). Everyone else was right, and your machine shop was blatantly wrong (if it wasn't just miscommunication). Considering that the majority of wear on a new engine occurs in the first 20 minutes of running it (or 20 miles of normal driving), waiting until 500 miles to change the oil on a brand new build is just stupid and asking for trouble...no matter how you slice it. Why you refused to believe this in the other thread (even with countless people trying to explain the logic of it to you) is beyond me. But that is your engine to do what you want with; it doesn't mean that you should come into this poster's thread and imply that it's a good idea: it's not.

2). Nobody told you there would be "tons of metal shavings" in the filter as far as I know. Just because you can't see pieces of pistons floating in the oil doesn't mean it isn't contaminated. BTW, how can you see the large quantity of unburned hydrocarbons and fuel that blew past those unseated rings and saturated the oil during the first several thousand revolutions of the motor?

3). There most definitely is a right way and a wrong way to do things, whether you choose to believe it or not. Again, that's your choice.... but you shouldn't be handing out bad advice just because "I honestly dont think there is a right and wrong oil, and a right and wrong procedure".

Ok... flame off now. And nothing personal.

really cause my car is perfectly fine. Iv ask other machine shops and i have 2 friends who are certified mechanics. There were several people that told me that.

 

[Couger85]

10w30 dino

 

[Calan]

really cause my car is perfectly fine. Iv ask other machine shops and i have 2 friends who are certified mechanics. There were several people that told me that.

I'm happy your car is perfectly fine (after how many miles?). As I said in the other thread, I'm not going to spend any more time trying to get you to think logically for yourself...listen to your experts and do whatever you want with your motor; nobody really cares. But if you continue to post misleading information in other people's threads or attempt to argue with people that have been doing this for years (which would be almost "everyone" in your own words), I'll continue to report your posts. Deal?

OP - As Justin, donniekak, and hundreds of others have said over the years: use good filters and inexpensive dino oil for the first couple of oil changes, change it early and often for the first 500 miles or so, and then switch to a good synthetic.

It ain't rocket science.

 

[2GFWDbeast]

I'm happy your car is perfectly fine (after how many miles?). As I said in the other thread, I'm not going to spend any more time trying to get you to think logically for yourself...listen to your experts and do whatever you want with your motor; nobody really cares. But if you continue to post misleading information in other people's threads or attempt to argue with people that have been doing this for years (which would be almost "everyone" in your own words), I'll continue to report your posts. Deal?

OP - As Justin, donniekak, and hundreds of others have said over the years: use good filters and inexpensive dino oil for the first couple of oil changes, change it early and often for the first 500 miles or so, and then switch to a good synthetic.

It ain't rocket science.

report me to who ever you want report me to

 

[yoshi_tony]

just use regular oil not synthetic until 1000 miles im using castrol 10w-40 im going with the AMS break in instructions

heres a link
http://www.amsperformance.com/instructions/EngineBreakInInstructions.pdf

^^^^ what he said! oh thats me hahaha

 

[shift2drift38]

So would this apply to just replacing rod bearings as well? Havent put the pan on yet, but have a wix filter, and 10-40w basic oil. Change after 50miles with more 10-40? and then again at 500 and run what I want at 1000? I know it's a hit and miss when bearings go bad but I'd like to do the best I can before I pull the whole thing out and do a top to bottom rebuild, budget at the moment wont quite allow it

Would like to add it's a 91 Talon 4g63 N/T sitting at 196k miles ...

 

[Calan]

So would this apply to just replacing rod bearings as well?

Most wear during a rebuild break-in comes from rings/cylinders and possibly parts of the valve train (cam journals for example). You shouldn't have metal-to-metal contact with just a bearing replacement (hopefully).

But, an oil change never hurts. What's $14 worth of oil and a $6 filter compared to the cost of a motor?

 

[shift2drift38]

Exactly what I'm thinking , thanks for the help!