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Devilsfutbol17

15+ Year Contributor
406
48
Jul 27, 2007
Bellingham, Washington
I found a 1996 Spyder GST for $4900. It is a 5-speed, 91,000 miles on it, white with black top, 17 inch rims. There is 80% tread left on the tires but the guy has a brand new never used set of tires for the car that is included in the price. He says the top doesn't leak, but it had a rip and was repaired, but he didn't like it, so he bought a brand new oem top that isn't installed and is included with the car. He says the interior is really nice, everything inside works, but you have to help the top up a little bit. He doesn't know if the timing belt has been replaced or not. It has a 3 inch cat back exhaust, 16G turbo, apexi intake and a greddy bov. He says it runs great and has no issues. He says he just wants to get rid of it because he doesn't drive it and its taking up space in his garage, which sounds good to me because he kept it garaged at least. he also said that the paint is good on it, no clear coat coming off, no body damage or dents. I'm going to check for crankwalk be looking at the clutch pedal when I turn left. I have been talking to the guy over the phone and I'm suppose to go drive for 4 hours to go and buy it if it checks out on Thursday. Does it sound good? Should I ask him or check for other things on it?
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The thing I've found out is that you usually are willing to pay a little more for something that you're set on. If you can't justify the price then it's not right for you. I think offering 4k and letting him think on it may work...it did for me.

I'm not saying talking him down isn't an option. I got my 1G down from 5,600 to 2,800 with a few tweaks to the deal.
 
What has worked best for me in the past is to go check the car out and pick up on the things that are wrong with it and add them together and say it will need XXX$ of repairs. You can ask that off the price or ask him to split the difference.
 
I paid $4600 no haggling because I wanted it, traveled 300 miles for it. On way back turbo went. While that was getting fixed decided to replace the tbelt. After the shop bill (didn't have tools to fix at time) I drove it back home from vacation. 101Miles shy, tbelt broke. Shop screwed up didnt set tension correctly. AAA towed me home and charged me for that one extra mile not covered under the 100mile policy. Yup, I'm the dumbest DSMer here, certainly in the top ten.

But strangly enough, I dont regret it. No rust, no spliced wires and tastefully modded. I love this car and gonna keep it for a long time :)
 
I paid $4600 no haggling because I wanted it, traveled 300 miles for it. On way back turbo went. While that was getting fixed decided to replace the tbelt. After the shop bill (didn't have tools to fix at time) I drove it back home from vacation. 101Miles shy, tbelt broke. Shop screwed up didnt set tension correctly. AAA towed me home and charged me for that one extra mile not covered under the 100mile policy. Yup, I'm the dumbest DSMer here, certainly in the top ten.

But strangly enough, I dont regret it. No rust, no spliced wires and tastefully modded. I love this car and gonna keep it for a long time :)

That sounds a little steep to me for even a clean, well-running GST.

Did you get any drive time prior to purchasing the vehicle?

If you love it though, more power to you! I do advise getting a Factory Service Manual and a Haynes Manual. You will use them more than twice. Also, auto parts stores usually lend or rent large, or difficult to obtain tools and equipment.
 
Its a GSX, not GST, I live in Montana -I don't play around when it comes to traction. That's why I wanted AWD. The guy was real cool, never really got to drive the car anymore due to Military. I still talk to him from time to time. Yeah I got a bit of drive time, it was just peachy at the time.

And LOL, did you miss my post count? I've been here long enough to hear the "get a haynes manual" line 20x over. And you know what? I still havent got one. I hate haynes/chilton, I learned a long time ago they suck. I actually ended up downloading the FSM in pdf form from mitsubishilinks.net. I also got the handy as hell part number program. Then I got tired of the missing pages and searching so I went on eBay and got the real deal, original FSM hardcopies -all volumes specific to the year.

Yeah I think I'm covered ;)
 
Just hit the link and download the one marked "eclipse 1990-1998" then the very next one below (electrical) it comes with 1g and 2g manuals so you can throw the 1gs away after, if you want.
 
can you guys help me with my situation:

95 Eagle Talon TSi AWD

That is the dsm I am looking to get, he said he will trade me that plus 2k cash for my audi s4. I am looking for a project car and this looks like it was fully refreshed. Is this a good deal? He said it only needs a few things like to boost gauge to be properly setup and a tune. What do you guys think?

Here is my s4 ad: 2000 Audi S4 For Sale or Trade
 
can you guys help me with my situation:

95 Eagle Talon TSi AWD

That is the dsm I am looking to get, he said he will trade me that plus 2k cash for my audi s4. I am looking for a project car and this looks like it was fully refreshed. Is this a good deal? He said it only needs a few things like to boost gauge to be properly setup and a tune. What do you guys think?

Here is my s4 ad: 2000 Audi S4 For Sale or Trade

If he has been modding the car without a boost gauge.......just run away.
 
Don't if this is the write forum/thread for this but whatever. I'm looking to sell my 97 eclipse GS with Turbo. I'll post a link to my craigslist ad. Just wanted to see what you guys think its worth and if I should raise or lower the price. Has a lot of stuff done to it performance and also maintenance work I've done to it.

Also my question is is if I fixed my boost problems, fixed the oil leak, and had it tuned what do you think the price would be.

The real reason I ask is because Im looking and seeing all these hondas that just because the have some turbo on it then there automatically worth 8 grand haha I know mine is definitely not worth that much but thats why im asking you all.

Thanks

Here's the link to the Craigslist ad

1997 Eclipse Gs Built and Turbo
 
Yeah Kyle, thats why I got the year specific FSM, got tired of the little annoying things. I also have a six bolt, I just use the pdf since one of the pdf's is for a 91. And the parts program is just awesome since you just punch in the VIN and you'll get exactly what you need. No way for parts stores/dealerships to screw up that way ;)
 
That GSX is nice. I would def do it if you have the funds. See if theyre willing to let you get a full check on it to make sure there isnt any noticeable issues with the ride. If there isn't, go for it man
 
Alright guys here is the car I am considering. My engine is in the shop right now for a rebuild, and the guy gave me some very unpleasant numbers. I dont think it would be a very smart investment, so I have decided it would be better to just a new car. Tell me what you guys think of this and maybe what you think it worth.

Thanks in advance :D

http://stlouis.craigslist.org/cto/3601460755.html

Nobody?
 
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Alright so I am completely new to dsm's all together. I have wanted one for about two years but haven't found one in my price range. I have spent a few hours on this forum learning how turbos work, and what to do and not to do to a dsm, yet I still feel I cannot make a solid decision when purchasing a car.

So on craigslist I have found this 1995 talon 95 talon awd turbo . To me it seems like a good buy, mostly because the guy has replaced some parts so it should run fine. What worries me is how the turbo is not working correctly. I do not know enough of turbos to know how bad this is. He says it is a cheap fix, but I would also like your opinions.

Thank you :D
 
Alright so I am completely new to dsm's all together. I have wanted one for about two years but haven't found one in my price range. I have spent a few hours on this forum learning how turbos work, and what to do and not to do to a dsm, yet I still feel I cannot make a solid decision when purchasing a car.

So on craigslist I have found this 1995 talon 95 talon awd turbo . To me it seems like a good buy, mostly because the guy has replaced some parts so it should run fine. What worries me is how the turbo is not working correctly. I do not know enough of turbos to know how bad this is. He says it is a cheap fix, but I would also like your opinions.

Thank you :D

see if he will let you take the plastic molding off the rocker panels. Cars notoriously rust there and if its rusty it might be into the stucture of the unibody.

and look for vaccum leaks to see if the owner is being truthful about what is wrong with it

also ask why the bov isn't recirculated
 
So I was looking into the BOV thing since I did not know much about it. I read that if it is not recirculated it could be causing symptoms similar to a vacuum leak. So if this is true, could it be that instead of a leak? And I am wondering if there are other issues. Otherwise why would he be so quick to part it out if he doesn't sell it in a week hahaha.
 
Yes and no. If it's an aftermarket BOV, it should be adjusted to be closed at idle, therefore no leak. That said, if it's adjusted right, the only effect it would have is between shifts on a stock MAS sensor system. It will stumble after a shift because it's dumping "already accounted for air" according to the MAS.

If it's a stock BOV, there very well might be a leak, since our stock BOVS are slightly open at idle.

But generally if it's an aftermarket valve not being recirculated on a stock MAS system, it's because the retard owner just wants the cool BOV signature sound and mods everything else in the same half assed ignorant manner. And by that I mean look for an ebay turbo, turbo timer on a water cooled turbo, giant FMIC for a stock 2G (T25 turbo there) race steering wheel, fatass bumper, and if youre really lucky they might not even have an air filter. :thumb: But seriously things can get ugly after seeing a vented BOV.
 
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