What if it is not a boost leak?

[razrman8]

I highly doubt that one would leak to. If in fact mine is leaking. I just highly doubt it is.. I'd be able to see it when I first start it up I would think. When its first warming up

 

[Absit]

It's generally not dense enough on a cold start, the seafoam wil make it painfully obvious. The only problem is if your turbine housing leaks you can't really tell them apart.

 

[razrman8]

But I guess stranger things have happened

 

[Absit]

But I guess stranger things have happened

Assume everything is broken until you prove it's not!

 

[razrman8]

AHhh! You got the painful part right.

 

[williillii]

Sounds like the wastegate to me. Make sure the turbo hasnt rotated if its able to. Check the v-band. And then wiggle the flapper while its still attached to the arm to see if there is any play. It should be at least tight against the seat if not pulling on it a little. If that all looks fine and you're not missing an IC coupler or something then its time to pull the turbo off, or at least the turbine housing and have a look..

 

[razrman8]

Sounds like the wastegate to me. Make sure the turbo hasnt rotated if its able to. Check the v-band. And then wiggle the flapper while its still attached to the arm to see if there is any play. It should be at least tight against the seat if not pulling on it a little. If that all looks fine and you're not missing an IC coupler or something then its time to pull the turbo off, or at least the turbine housing and have a look..

I was thinking the same. But when I manually move the actuator and it feels tight. The e316g is stiffer though. Could something be wrong even if it feels tight

Assume everything is broken until you prove it's not!

True point

The part of my bov that is leaking is the side I didnt rtv. I only did one side. So I rtv'd it and letting it sit overnight. Also found a perfect size rubber plug kind of deal that fits right into the biss screw and rtv'd it and am letting sit over night. Ill put those on in the morning and see what i come up with and spray down my whole system

Okay , here is the video i just took. I fixed every boost leak I found. I have no air leaking anywhere. Only air I can hear is air passing through pcv valve. What do you think about the boost bleed off ?

A video from my phone | United States | By Keenan Willis (thorcr80)

 

[SpawnedX]

BOV diaphragm is probably blown. Go to Advanced and ask them to let you look at thermostat gaskets for Dodge trucks. There is one that is aluminum and blue rubber. It is bigger than a GReddy flange but the bolt holes line up, get some good strong stainless steel bolts and use that gasket, really crank it down. That will properly solve your gasket leak issue.

ExtremePSI can get you a BISS screw and O-ring for less than $15.00 shipped, get that. Once that is done you need to do the BLT properly, pressurize the system and squirt all over the place with pressure in there. This is still a boost leak issue, I doubt it's a turbo issue.

 

[razrman8]

BOV diaphragm is probably blown. Go to Advanced and ask them to let you look at thermostat gaskets for Dodge trucks. There is one that is aluminum and blue rubber. It is bigger than a GReddy flange but the bolt holes line up, get some good strong stainless steel bolts and use that gasket, really crank it down. That will properly solve your gasket leak issue.

ExtremePSI can get you a BISS screw and O-ring for less than $15.00 shipped, get that. Once that is done you need to do the BLT properly, pressurize the system and squirt all over the place with pressure in there. This is still a boost leak issue, I doubt it's a turbo issue.

Okay. Well my bov does not leak anymore. Neither does the biss screw. Ill more than likely be ordering that from ExtremePSI though. I have a question though. When doing the BLT, should or shouldn't the wastegate actuator be opening the wastegate. I remember performing one on a friend of mines srt-4 and if I remember correctly, his wastegate would open during the test.

 

[SpawnedX]

It should if you are pressurizing the system over the PSI that the actuator spring is set at. If you are questioning it not opening that's not going to cause you to not build boost that is going to cause you to keep building boost.

Sime take a thing of wite out and mark where the flapper knob is when the wastegate actuator is on it, pull the cotter pin and slide it off that knob and see if you can close it further.

 

[LiquidX]

I don't know if it's just my phone or the video but I still hear hissing. Regardless, you will loose press if your BOV is still not sealing fully. You also mentioned it leaking by the PCV? To check with it installed, pinch shut the hose going from the IM to PCV. You can also remove it and if you can blow through the nipple side and it's not sealing then it's bad.

You may also continue to use the bad PCV if you put an inline check valve in the vac line. If not, then get a new OEM unit.

Are you noticing any hissing from the tail pipe at all?

 

[razrman8]

It should if you are pressurizing the system over the PSI that the actuator spring is set at. If you are questioning it not opening that's not going to cause you to not build boost that is going to cause you to keep building boost.

Sime take a thing of wite out and mark where the flapper knob is when the wastegate actuator is on it, pull the cotter pin and slide it off that knob and see if you can close it further.

Okay. Another thing. I bought a new pcv valve and was messing with it. Now, if I am correct, shouldn't a pcv valve allow air to pass through the natural way of flow, but not let air back throught the valve. The one that is on the car has a more restrictive feel when blowing air backwards through it than the new one. Is this right? As of now it seems like if I put the new one on, it would allow air back through the valve easier than the one on there now. Do they change when put on and ran. Or does it have to have a certain pressure on it or what?

I don't know if it's just my phone or the video but I still hear hissing. Regardless, you will loose press if your BOV is still not sealing fully. You also mentioned it leaking by the PCV? To check with it installed, pinch shut the hose going from the IM to PCV. You can also remove it and if you can blow through the nipple side and it's not sealing then it's bad.

You may also continue to use the bad PCV if you put an inline check valve in the vac line. If not, then get a new OEM unit.

Are you noticing any hissing from the tail pipe at all?

Its not air hissing from around it, its air passing throught the valve. And the air you hear is the top line of the bcs that runs to the intake.

This is the new pcv valve that I have. So I can make sure I'mm on the same track. Now, when I blow on the (in relationship to the picture) "left" side, air passes through easier than when I blow on the (in relationship to the picture) "right'' side. When blowing on the right side it is more restrictive.

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/50007640@N06/5304602484/" title="IMAG0258.jpg by keenanwillis, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5208/5304602484_10e16e75cb.jpg" width="299" height="500" alt="IMAG0258.jpg" /></a>