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1G What gains can I get from upgrading from 2g MAF to GM MAF

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spadepro22

15+ Year Contributor
1,206
14
Mar 13, 2008
Seneca, South Carolina
Ok so my BOV is leaking and I'm thinking about going away from GReddy BOV, but if I do I'm going to get a new intercooler pipe from ETS flanged to whatever BOV I decide to get.

While I'm here (if I decide to go away from GReddy) should I go ahead and get piping to run GM MAF? I'm running the 2g MAF now or is it not worth it considering I'll have to buy new piping, BOV, GM MAF sensor, v3 and GM cable?

With that said LOL, what gains would I get if any from upgrading? If its not worth it, guess I could just get the new pipe flanged for whatever BOV I decide to go with.
 
As far as "gains".. not really a whole lot, other than a bit more airflow (since its larger), spool, and you can vent the BOV now. They can be finicky to get tuned correctly. Defiantly get DSMlink and the cable. Makes it alot easier to tune.

It did take me a while to get it smoothed out, but I really don't have any drivability issues at all using the GM MAF; runs the same in hot weather as well as cooler weather. Have not tested it in winter, other than to move it around the driveway, so cannot comment there.. but it does start up and idle fine in sub-zero temps. One of the biggest issues in getting these things to work correctly is making 100% sure that you have all of your boost leaks fixed!!
 
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I've been using a GM MAF for a few years now, and haven't experienced any drivability issues, weather related, or otherwise. Oh yeah, it rains a lot in western OR by the way...;)
 
Depends on how you tune it, really. But I don't have any hard numbers for you as to how much it gained just from a MAF swap.

I did go with a FP intake on mine when I switched over, though.
 
With more air flow, how much power would you guess it would gain? Also considering I could get a bigger intake if I went this route.

What makes you think that you are going to have more airflow and more power just switching the BOV, intercooler pipe and MAF sensor? You likely won't gain any power whatsoever.

The only thing that you will gain is a better tune with ECMLink. I think you are way over thinking this. Your 2g MAF can go a long way, if you aren't out flowing it than you don't need anything more. The BOV that you want to run can be recirculated and be made to work with the piping that you already have, so there is no need to upgrade anything else other than the BOV.
 
I'd also go with the fp if I go this route. This is just a estimate for the swap .

200 for piping
150 for GM Maf and cable
100 for fp intake
200 to upgrade to V3
200 for bov
Id say roughly around 850. Id have to get a bov regardless so I'd say 650. Now is it worth it?

What makes you think that you are going to have more airflow and more power just switching the bov, intercooler pipe and maf sensor. You likely won't gain any power whatsoever. The only thing that you will gain is a better tune with ecmlink. I think you are way over thinking this. Your 2g maf can go a long way, if you aren't out flowing it than you don't need anything more. The bov that you want to run can be recirculated and be made to work with the piping that you already have, so there is no need to upgrade anything else other than the bov.

Understand there might not be a power gain, thats why I'm asking. Someone stated more airflow, so I was wondering since there will be more airflow it was possible to make more power.
 
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I'd also go with the fp if I go this route. This is just a estimate for the swap .

200 for piping
150 for GM Maf and cable
100 for fp intake
200 to upgrade to V3
200 for bov
Id say roughly around 850. Id have to get a bov regardless so I'd say 650. Now is it worth it?



Understand there might not be a power gain, thats why I'm asking. Someone stated more airflow, so I was wondering since there will be more airflow it was possible to make more power.

Just get a good 1g bov for 30 bucks and to the dodge garage mod on it and run it. It will hold 30+ psi just fine. 30 bucks vs 850 which one sounds better to you?
 
I went from about 57lbs/min to 63lbs/min at the same boost level from going from a super hacked 2g MAF to a GM MAF in blow thru. My car seemed to run really well on it, and I was just using the MAFT zeroed out, and tuning with an Ostrich and TunerPro. Seemed pretty consistant from a 50* night to 100* day.

If your in the upper 40's for airflow you stand to gain quite a bit I think. The 2g MAF is a lot more restrictive than I ever dreamed. I had mine super hacked, and still logged over a 1psi drop in the intake, which can take about 10% off the mass air flow of the turbo.
 
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I went from about 57lbs/min to 63lbs/min at the same boost level from going from a super hacked 2g MAF to a GM MAF in blow thru. My car seemed to run really well on it, and I was just using the MAFT zeroed out, and tuning with an Ostrich and TunerPro. Seemed pretty consistant from a 50* night to 100* day.

If your in the upper 40's for airflow you stand to gain quite a bit I think. The 2g MAF is a lot more restrictive than I ever dreamed. I had mine super hacked, and still logged over a 1psi drop in the intake, which can take about 10% off the mass air flow of the turbo.

Your increase in airflow could partially be attributed to the different reading from the different sensor's also. You are also running a bit bigger turbo than his 20g so you will notice more improvement when the 2g MAF starts to be restrictive with your setup.
 
I assume that you already have a 1g bov on there? If so than you can just do the modification to it, assuming that it isn't crushed. DDG- Talon BOV mod for HIGH BOOST Don't worry about the piece of steel line and threading it into the base you don't need that part.

I have the knock off Greddy. Want to save money and go back with the real greddy rs or rz, but I'm hearing bad things about them leaking.
 
I have the knock off Greddy. Want to save money and go back with the real greddy rs or rz, but I'm hearing bad things about them leaking.

If you have a knock off than a real one will bolt right to the flange. You should be able to find a used one for 100 bucks or less.
 
Your increase in airflow could partially be attributed to the different reading from the different sensor's also. You are also running a bit bigger turbo than his 20g so you will notice more improvement when the 2g maf starts to be restrictive with your setup.

I was going of my idc's and afr's which don't lie, LOL. But I feel like a non hacked 2gmaf on a 20g might be more detrimental than for me. It's easier to max out the flow on a 20g that can flow 600cfm than a hy35 that can flow 850+. Notice I used cfm not lbs/min because turbo choke flow is a volume not a mass, and if you make the air going in more or less dense you can increase or decrease its max mass flow.

So if he maxes out the 20g compressor and its drawing a vacuum on the 2g maf, its mass flow is falling off. Where I have enough "headroom" in volume flow to keep moving more mass.

Then you have the compressor and turbine efficiencies to look at and all that jazz.

I guess its kinda hard to understand what I'm saying.
 
IMO a gm maf is not the better option. If you plan on upgrading to v3, buy a gm maf and the gm maf cable for ecmlink then do yourself a favor switch to speed density. You will be more than happy running sd. I had a 2g maf, and a gm maf before and my car never ran very good and it was very inconsistant with weather changes. I'm now sd and wow, my car is running way better. There is zero restriction in all the intake piping and weather changes do nothing. For the price, switch to SD !!!!!!!!! forget the gm maf, it was a good improvement ten years back but now there is something better.
 
i personnaly saw over 50whp gain from switchin from a 2gmaf to 3.5"gm hacked blow thru set up. i have the dyno papers from cobb tunning surgline to prove it. with the dates not to far away from each other. hx40 with a factory 2gmaf on DSMlinkV3 car could only tune to 300awhp. the guys at Cobb tuning surgline suggested i get a new air flow metering device. all i did was swictch one intercooler pipe and my air filter pipe. came back on 3.5"GM maf and the car made 360.
 
Instead of spending all that on gm MAF an what not, buy the SD kit and a SD plug n play cable from ecmlink, that way you run the MAP sensor provided off the intake manifold and not worry about boost leaks affecting your tune as much. Granted you will still need to fix all boost leaks so your turbo won't have to work overtime, but at least you can have piece of mind knowing a boost leak isn't going to throw your tune off. As for your bov, go with NGR or buy another used greddy, or crushed 1G. Providing of course you switch to v3 LOL
 
i agree speed density is a better set up. my car has V3 and has the updated cable and i run a omni4bar MAP with a GM iat sensor. i cant take credit for the setup or the tune. my buddy alex (Boostdriven) tuned my speed density. the one biggest thing i noticed, was the car would no longer juggle back and forth from closed loop to open loop at only like 1-2psi boost barley climbin a hill. then the tune would switch (ULTRA ANNOYING) for no reason at only 2psi and my AFR is 10.8:1 like WTF ! now that im on speed density it never ever (has a mind of its own kinda thing) i way perfer the SD set-up over mass air flow set up
 
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