What do i NOT need from this list?

[FUNWHEELDRIVE]

what do i not need from this list? as in what can i replace easily once my engine is in. im doing a full 6bolt rebuild and want to get all these parts but i dont have an extra $1000 layin aroung!
ALSO this is in a 2g body, 6bolt engine.
do i NEED the knock sensor? and do i need the 1g or 2g?
also PCV valve i hear alot about those messing up....
and i hear lots about the clutch release fork.

OEM Knock Sensor 1G (MD141510) $94.00
OEM DSM Fuel Rail Spacer (MD095402) $4.00
90-99 OEM Mitsubishi Oil Pressure Sending Unit (MD133273) $55.00
4g63 OEM Timing Belt (MD326059) $70.00
Timing Belt Tensioner Engine Model: 1g 6-Bolt (MD164533) $99.00
OEM DSM (6-Bolt) Tensioner Pulley (MD129355) $32.00
OEM DSM Idler Pulley (MD156604) $37.00
6-Bolt STM Front Cover and Gear Set with Gasket (MD175762,MD174582,MD174581,MD149393) $309.00
DSM OEM Intake Manifold Gasket Select Model: 1G (MD188995) $10.50
OEM Rear Main Seal Select Model: 6-Bolt (MD343564)$25.00
OEM DSM Rear Main Seal Gasket (6-Bolt) (MD183243) $3.50
OEM 4-Piece Copper Exhaust Manifold Gasket (MR323654) $28.00
OEM DSM Crank Shaft Pulley Bolts (MS240211) $6.00
OEM Water Pump Select Model: 1g (MD972052)$125.00
OEM Evo/DSM PCV Valve (MD152772) $22.00
OEM Flywheel Bolts Select Model: 6-bolt (2795A956)$19.50
OEM DSM Clutch Release Fork (MD770506) $62.00
Item total: $995.50 USD

what do u guys think? and that is USD, i needa convert that to CAD and add shipping.

 

[LiquidX]

what do i not need from this list? as in what can i replace easily once my engine is in. im doing a full 6bolt rebuild and want to get all these parts but i dont have an extra $1000 layin aroung!
ALSO this is in a 2g body, 6bolt engine.
do i NEED the knock sensor?
and do i need the 1g or 2g?Yes, and you buy according to the car so you will need a 2g knock sensor if your old one is bad
also PCV valve i hear alot about those messing up....Remove it and blow into the nipple side. If you can blow through it, it's shot. It's used to keep boost out of the head/crank case. These will aid in a leaking PVC valve Check Valves | U.S. Plastic Corp.
and i hear lots about the clutch release fork. Anytime you do a clutch job, you should change out the fork and pivot as they both wear with use

OEM Knock Sensor 1G (MD141510) $94.00 need the 2g sensor for your harness plug
OEM DSM Fuel Rail Spacer (MD095402) $4.00 Lost your old ones?
90-99 OEM Mitsubishi Oil Pressure Sending Unit (MD133273) $55.00 Old one shot?
4g63 OEM Timing Belt (MD326059) $70.00 STM - DSM ENGINE COMPONENTS | PISTONS | RODS | CAMS | TIMING | OIL COOLERS | GASKETS 270 complete kit with balance shaft removal. All OEM
Timing Belt Tensioner Engine Model: 1g 6-Bolt (MD164533) $99.00
OEM DSM (6-Bolt) Tensioner Pulley (MD129355) $32.00
OEM DSM Idler Pulley (MD156604) $37.00
6-Bolt STM Front Cover and Gear Set with Gasket (MD175762,MD174582,MD174581,MD149393) $309.00
DSM OEM Intake Manifold Gasket Select Model: 1G (MD188995) $10.50
OEM Rear Main Seal Select Model: 6-Bolt (MD343564)$25.00
OEM DSM Rear Main Seal Gasket (6-Bolt) (MD183243) $3.50
OEM 4-Piece Copper Exhaust Manifold Gasket (MR323654) $28.00
OEM DSM Crank Shaft Pulley Bolts (MS240211) $6.00 If your old ones are bad or just want new ones for piece of mind
OEM Water Pump Select Model: 1g (MD972052)$125.00 Save money and get topline or ITM. Not as critical as the oil pump
OEM Evo/DSM PCV Valve (MD152772) $22.00
OEM Flywheel Bolts Select Model: 6-bolt (2795A956)$19.50 Old ones bad?
OEM DSM Clutch Release Fork (MD770506) $62.00
Item total: $995.50 USD

what do u guys think? and that is USD, i needa convert that to CAD and add shipping.

In bold

Did you just buy the block or long block? You'll need a 6 bolt oil pan, 6 bolt oil filter housing (89-90 is air cooled and will need an oil cooler also, 90-92 is water cooled and you will transfer the sandwich plate onto the new housing). I would look into either cleaning or replacing the oil pick up tube if yours came with one, otherwise you'll need one for a 6 bolt and the gasket. Front crank seal for on the oil pump, head gasket as well. You can save money going composite and they have held 30psi. I would recomend going with ARP head and main studs now if you plan on making a decent amount of power. You'll also need a 1g CAS unless you get your 2g oil pump modified to accept the 6 bolt block. I'm sure you know, but you'll need a 6 bolt flywheel as the 7 bolt is uncompatable.

http://www.roadraceengineering.com/6boltswap.htm

 

[FUNWHEELDRIVE]

In bold

Did you just buy the block or long block? You'll need a 6 bolt oil pan, 6 bolt oil filter housing (89-90 is air cooled and will need an oil cooler also, 90-92 is water cooled and you will transfer the sandwich plate onto the new housing). I would look into either cleaning or replacing the oil pick up tube if yours came with one, otherwise you'll need one for a 6 bolt and the gasket. Front crank seal for on the oil pump, head gasket as well. You can save money going composite and they have held 30psi. I would recomend going with ARP head and main studs now if you plan on making a decent amount of power. You'll also need a 1g CAS unless you get your 2g oil pump modified to accept the 6 bolt block. I'm sure you know, but you'll need a 6 bolt flywheel as the 7 bolt is uncompatable.

6 Bolt Motor Install Into a 2G Eclipse

ya i have 1 complete 6bolt longblock, and a short block. i am transfering everything that was on the longblock the shortblock because the shortblock is completly honed and resurfaced cleaned and painted. i have ARP headstuds and rod bolts, are the main studs as important? i do plan on making a fair bit of power in the rang of 400whp. using mostly OEM parts. hx35 and all suporting mods. have 6bolt pan and everything although i dont know what year the engine was from so i dont know about the oil filter housing. have 1g CAS. and 6 bolt fidanza flywheel.
and yes i lost one of those spacers for my ful rail. i want to get those crank pulley bolts for peice of mind and one of mine snapped while removing it. for the oil presure sending unit right before my engine died it said i had no oil pressure so im just assuming its shot.

so i basically have to get most of those parts. fml

my balance shaft is already removed so i dont need the timing kit with bs removal. thats why they are all separate cause i think its cheaper.

 

[LiquidX]

ya i have 1 complete 6bolt longblock, and a short block. i am transfering everything that was on the longblock the shortblock because the shortblock is completly honed and resurfaced cleaned and painted. i have ARP headstuds and rod bolts, are the main studs as important? i do plan on making a fair bit of power in the rang of 400whp. using mostly OEM parts. hx35 and all suporting mods. have 6bolt pan and everything although i dont know what year the engine was from so i dont know about the oil filter housing. have 1g CAS. and 6 bolt fidanza flywheel.
and yes i lost one of those spacers for my ful rail. i want to get those crank pulley bolts for peice of mind and one of mine snapped while removing it. for the oil presure sending unit right before my engine died it said i had no oil pressure so im just assuming its shot.

so i basically have to get most of those parts. fml

my balance shaft is already removed so i dont need the timing kit with bs removal. thats why they are all separate cause i think its cheaper.

Transfer over what you can to help save cost unless you are "anal" about it all. I would strongly recomend getting the mainstuds for piece of mind with your goals. If you want air cooled, get 89-90, sater cooled 90-92. Those will all
fit the same block (a 6 bolt is a 6 bolt)

Did you try cleaning the sensor and connector? I know they can get pretty gunked up as well. Other than what was listed, you seem to be in the right direction. Just check out other threads and compare as well. I'm sure you will forget a piece or two one it's all done. Oh, do you have a timing cover? IIRC you'll need to get the mains line honed with being torqued down with ARP main studs to be sure the mains are in absolute round.

 

[FUNWHEELDRIVE]

ya im not anal about it i just want to make sure my car is RELIABLE!!!! . and i want to switch the oil pump. i need to get the water pump from that site cause they ship to canada and i would rather buy everything together to save on shipping .

i think ill be fine i think ill get most of those parts. sucks i only work part time getting paid 10 bucks an hour

 

[LiquidX]

They may be able to adjust the price if you ask them to remove the BSE kit and you can get just about everything you need through them too.

 

[92DSMErdrick]

How many miles is on the motor? I don't know about the front and rear seals being easy to do with the motor in the car. You're gonna need to drop the oil pan to get the rear seal out. Front seal is on the oil pump cover, which is still a bi*** to get out of the car if the motor has Balance shafts.

Your doing a pritty big job and not even considering the internals like bearings and rings. I'm guessing your compression is good and your oil always comes out clean with no sparkles ever?

 

[FUNWHEELDRIVE]

How many miles is on the motor? I don't know about the front and rear seals being easy to do with the motor in the car. You're gonna need to drop the oil pan to get the rear seal out. Front seal is on the oil pump cover, which is still a bi*** to get out of the car if the motor has Balance shafts.

Your doing a pritty big job and not even considering the internals like bearings and rings. I'm guessing your compression is good and your oil always comes out clean with no sparkles ever?

motor is out of the car, im doing a 6bolt swap in my 2g. and BS are already removed.

i have new oem pistons, rings, new oem bearings and im using the stock6bolt rods.

 

[92DSMErdrick]

Ok, that sounds better. Are the internals already changed out or you have them new to be put in?