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What could be the problem? Help!

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eclipse001

10+ Year Contributor
165
0
Sep 25, 2009
racine, Wisconsin
Ok so exactly one week ago I was driving my car (99 GSX 92k miles) when i felt that the clutch pedal didn't have much pressure and had a little bit of free play. My 1st and 2nd gear seemed a lot harder then normal to get into 3rd 4th and 5th were good reverse would just grind. So we thought it would be the master cylinder so i have that put in. Turns out there was an aftermarket master cylinder in so i replace it with an oem.

Earlier today I stop by to see the my mechanic and he broke my heart to tell me that the master cylinder did not solve the problem. He told he was going to have to drop the trannie out once again and he wouldn't be able to get to it untill late next week. Its been about a month and a week maybe since i had an ACT 2100 clutch kit put in so that is why i don't understand what could be the problem now.

He told me that the car is drivable but it feels like the clutch does not disengage all the way and he doesn't recommend me driving it. Can anyone help me on what you think could be the problem im getting very frustrated with this car and ready to sell it which i really don't want to . A couple people have told me its symptoms of crankwalk :cry:

Yesterday I looked at it if you pump the clutch by hand it gets pressure but when you stop it loses it. Im able to start it just fine and drive it through first gear but cant shift because i have no pressure on my clutch.
 
i would try bleeding the clutch or replacing the slave cylinder it takes awhile to bleed them correctly
 
I heard and had this done, that having a .610 step in your flywheel is preferable for some after market clutches. was this an issue immediately after the clutch was done? i had this step ground onto my fly wheele when i got my act.
 
I heard and had this done, that having a .610 step in your flywheel is preferable for some after market clutches. was this an issue immediately after the clutch was done? i had this step ground onto my fly wheele when i got my act.

Eh after the new clutch was put in i drove it for about 3000-4000k miles. Im still running a stock flywheel in there too.
 
In my old 98 awd talon I had this same problem. Replaced countless parts and bled it and still had the problem. To my luck I somehow sold the car. But from reading I heard it could be signs of a bent pressure plate. Not sure if that is 100% correct but thats just what I had thought with mine.
 
In my old 98 awd talon I had this same problem. Replaced countless parts and bled it and still had the problem. To my luck I somehow sold the car. But from reading I heard it could be signs of a bent pressure plate. Not sure if that is 100% correct but thats just what I had thought with mine.

Well i would still prefer it to be the throw out bearing or pressure plate just because i know what they would both cost then for it to be something else thats expensive. So once i find out what the problem is i will make sure to post it on here so whenever someone else runs into something like this they can have an idea of what it is. Ive been searching for hours and still havent found something similar to this ive read a couple things but they solve there problem with a master cylinder or slave cylinder it wasnt that easy for me.
 
Im having the same problem with my 99 GST. we just replaceed the master cylinder a few months ago and ive put about a month and a half on my new ACT 2600 clutch kit and am having the same problem except its gotten so bad for me now i cant even get into gears. ive replaced the slave cylinder thinking it was that but now i seem to have no pressure in the pedal and i really dont know what it could be
 
Too both of you having problems, did you use a Mitsubishi throw out bearing or the one from ACT? Oh and as far as 'crankwalk' goes, the 95-97 years were more prone than most. I've heard very little in the way of 99's being more susceptible that a 6 bolt (or any other engine for that matter) is. Now if you 'upgrade' to a 2600 pressure plate, that will increase the chances of weakening those thrust bearings. I'd recommend having your mechanic bleed the entire system if you DID use a Mitsubishi throw out bearing. Otherwise, I think your mechanic may have incorrectly installed the clutch.
 
edit: actually, it sounds more like a hydraulics problem (master, slave, or even a leak in the line itself), considering you're losing pressure in the pedal. Try rebuilding the slave (road race engineering has a rebuild kit for both master and slave), and perhaps installing a new stainless steel line. If you're having problems disengaging after all this, THEN I'd say it's your flywheel step and/or pivot ball and at the very least I'd try a longer slave rod...

I'm assuming your mechanic/you know how to bleed a clutch. Also, make sure your slave housing is in good shape if you rebuild it. If your mechanic told you he needs to drop the tranny without checking out the slave cylinder, then get a new mechanic...or become your own :thumb:
 
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+1 on becoming your own mechanic! Granted you dont have a warrenty for the work being done, but if you take your time and dont half ass the work youll know its done right for less money.

Also like these guys are saying crankwalk is super overrated. Take some time to study whats actually wrong, research the problems and actually diagnose your problem. Im on my 3rd 7 bolt and neither one have walked.. Im on my third simply because I learned the hard way and halfassed my work in the first 2..

However, Im tearing apart another 7bolt that was my buddys hoping to find a good crank for my build for my gsx. What I found kind of made me cringe. Took the oil pan off and started trying to move the rods to check for spun bearings, then preceded to try and move the crank, I found that it had maybe .001-.004 (didnt have my feel guage with me) movement forward to back. Im not sure the specs on whats exceptable with thrust bearing wear. Anyone have some more knowledge on that??
 
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Cut off and bypass this cylinder. It is bolted to the front of the trany just behind the lower inter-cooler piping. It worked for my talon good luck.
 

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The clutch rebuild is for 1g's NOT 2g's which don't seem to have the same problem, at least not yet.

I'm not sure if you're referring to my post but I suggested rebuilding the slave cylinder, not the "clutch" (pedal maybe?)...

Anthony95TSiAWD said:
Cut off and bypass this cylinder. It is bolted to the front of the trany just behind the lower inter-cooler piping. It worked for my talon good luck.

+1, you can get a nice SS line for around $25 that will bypass it
 
I misread your post and crossed RRE with shep's pedal rebuild (subliminal advertisements!!). So after re-reading everything again, it looks like he's already replaced the master and slave cylinders recently.

To the OP, can you crawl under your car and look to see where the release fork is positioned in relation to the entire opening? It's the part that the slave cylinder rod makes contact with. It should be right in the middle but let us know if it's closer to the driver or passenger side. A pic would be perfect.
 
So after re-reading everything again, it looks like he's already replaced the master and slave cylinders recently.

yeah, I didn't see that he replaced the slave...

To the OP, can you crawl under your car and look to see where the release fork is positioned in relation to the entire opening?

This is to check if the pivot ball/fork is worn...this wouldn't cause pressure loss in the pedal

OP: bypass that reservoir and/or replace the line
 
OK so i had one of my other mechanics look at it he re adjusted the pedal we bled out the clutch last night it was acting up so i left it parked at the shop i hop in it today and the clutch pedal didnt stick went in gears fineas if nothing was wrong now its sitting in my driveway as we speak.

I called the mechanic let him know i drove it and it seemed fine he said he still recommends not to drive it because when he looked at it last night the clutch fork was more to the passenger side and was not centered so he said he thinks it will eventually #### up again i will try to get a picture in a few minutes. Would you guys recommend driving it? I need something to go to school and work its been frustrating looking for rides everyday.
 
is the clutch pedal adjusted properly? if it isn't, the master can't adjust whatever play is at the slave end. other than that, if you're not losing fluid, and it's losing pressure then it's not bled correctly. when i bleed them i use 2 cans of brake fluid, and have a hose attached to the slave bleeder, ran up to the engine bay, into a can of brake fluid. the can of brake fluid should sit at or above the level of the master. then i just pump away on the clutch and make sure i'm keeping the reservoir full (hence the second can of fluid.)
 
This is what it looks like as of right now
<a href="http://s870.photobucket.com/albums/ab267/eclipse001/?action=view&current=photography035.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i870.photobucket.com/albums/ab267/eclipse001/photography035.jpg" border="0" alt="4-28-10"></a>

This is what it looked like saturday when it wasnt running
<a href="http://s870.photobucket.com/albums/ab267/eclipse001/?action=view&current=photography036.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i870.photobucket.com/albums/ab267/eclipse001/photography036.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>
 
it sounds like it was an adjustment/bleeding issue, good call going to another mechanic LOL. the fork looks a little offset; you might need to shim the pivot ball...
 
see if cracking the bleeder open and if it releases the fork, then it's a hydraulic issue, most likely pedal adjustment. if not then the mechanic probably didn't grease where the throwout bearing slides on the transmission.
 
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