What could be the cause for Hesitation, Sagging, and a faulty Speedometer?

[Mirad]

1995 Eagle Talon ESI
420A with Manual Transmission, no mods, and non-turbo
147,000 miles

I'll combine all my threads in one since I was addressing each issue individually.

Short story: My car lived its life in a hot area. It worked fine prior to shipping and when I picked it up at the port. The weather was warm at the port. I hit 75mph with no probs. When I was driving through cold weather for about 45 mins in, I noticed that I couldn't go any faster than 60mph even with the gas pedal to the floor. Then, the check engine light came on and started flashing, I immediately pulled over and noticed my car was sputtering and had bad idle. The battery light turned on and all my lights started to flicker a bit. As I drove off the shoulder back onto the highway, I noticed my acceleration was sagging badly, I made it to an O'Reilly's shop and went on with trouble shooting.

Here is what I changed/had tested. After each item I replaced, I fired up the car to see if the sputtering/bad idle would stabilized. The idle started to get better but the misfires and sputtering remained.

Battery - Had it tested and they said it was bad. Bought a new one. No more flickering lights.

Alternator - Fine now

CEL 43 - Misfiring in all cylinders

ECU code - P0300 - Random Multiple Misfires

New NGK Spark Plugs 2756 (BKR6E-11) gapped to .048

New Spark Plug Wires (OMS 9458 Ignition Wire Set)

New Ignition Coil MPI 2-50013. The employee said I had to cut and hook up a pig tail connector to use the ign coil since they probably changed the connector. I found out later the Ignition Coil was for Dodge vehicle... I returned the battery and coil after finding out that my original coil that was replaced recently was fine and my battery just needed a good charge.

New STP Air Filter

Flushed my cooling system completely, didn't install a new thermostat since I didn't have one anyways, replaced the thermostat gasket and topped off with Peak/Prestone 50/50 Antifreeze and Coolant. No leak.

Oil change was done prior to shipping.

I tried SeaFoam and it helped stabilize my idle which stays steady at 950 rpm vs 850 rpm.

After all this, the misfiring has went down and the CEL hasn't come back for it.

My car has poor acceleration and sags between 1100 - 1500 rpm.

My top speed is still 60 mph and it slowly has a hard time going higher than that. I know that I'm going faster than the reading.

I noticed one day when it was below 32* my speedometer stopped working. When it's warmer the speedometer needle moves as I drive off, however, I know for sure it's a bad reading.

Is the EGR Transducer Solenoid supposed to be open or closed when the vehicle is off? I blew a ton of cigar smoke through my vacuum hoses and saw the smoke coming out from the vents on the sides of my EGR Transducer Solenoid. The vehicle was off. I'll upload a video ASAP.

Finding Engine Vacuum Leaks With A Cigar

The next things I will check are compression pressure, fuel filter, and fuel line for clogging. Last would be the fuel injectors. After that, I'll take it to the dealer.

As for my faulty speedometer, someone suggested to clean the harness on my Vehicle Speed Sensor with Electrical Contact Cleaner and then apply Di-Electric Grease. Should I remove and inspect the VSS as well? Sorry for forgetting your name fellow DSM member for the cleaning. Thank you!

 

[rydereclipse]

So ...can we get a TL: DR version?

Sounds like you are saying you need a tune-up and to clean your speedo connections? ...am i right?

 

[Mirad]

To simplify it, I drove a fine working car through cold weather. Several car issues arose such as hesitation, sagging, poor acceleration, and then my speedometer stops working or gives faulty readings.

I replaced all spark plugs and wires, air filter, flushed cooling system and added 50/50 antifreeze and coolant. Misfiring isn't as frequent, I don't have a CEL for a P0300 anymore, but I still have hesitation, sagging, and poor acceleration.

What should I inspect next?

Also, should I remove the VSS and take a look as well since I'm cleaning out the harness? If that doesn't fix it, buy a new VSS or is there a test I should try on it?

 

[Mirad]

No ideas?

 

[Dsmkauai]

Have you checked the iat or tps sensors yet? Sounds like a ground is missing or rusted over and not making full contact. Or a sensor is failed and causing the ecu to be in basically limp mode. I would check the o2 sensors just because there is no code doesn't mean they are working properly. Also look for any intake or exhaust leaks they could possibly be the problem, bad shaft seals in throttle body! Could be fuel related have you checked pressure yet or verified that the fpr is working? You could have a bad cam sensor or wires for it throwing the ecu and timing of spark off! Anyway just throwing out some ideas bro! Please don't go to the dealer!! You will get raped !! Could be you need to reset The ecu and get it to learn the climate your in! Just start with the basics, fuses, sensors, vac lines, grounds. See what you find or don't find then move on check compression look for coolant in oil and vise versa! Hopefully the shipping company didn't go joy ride your car bro and trashed it. I've read about those nightmare car movers !

 

[VR-4 fanatic]

Disconnect speedo cable from trans. There should be a long square tip that should turn easily. If someone is available to watch speedometer they should see movement of needle. Any binding? Any damage to cable? If no problems are found, look to gear in transmission that drives speedo.