ECMlink Went to the track with the 374whp tune, it doesnt like the track.

[GSXftw]

Are you looking at his first log, to which my post was responding to, or the two recent logs he posted since then? It's all over the place.

Yes thats what I got those readings off of was the first log

My hot side hasn't been ported, except for the wastegate hole. The flapper is deleted. External is mounted off the o2 and is atmosphere dumped.

So is this what the boost always climbs to? Even on a lower boost setting and even at WGA pressure and no controller at all? Thatll tell u where the problem lies. If its able to do lower then its your controller

 

[CrackedDSM]

Yes thats what I got those readings off of was the first log

At that spot you mentioned it's fairly close, but from 2000rpm to 5800rpm and from 6200rpm to 7200rpm it's off by as much as 5-6psi. Not sure what the point is picking one spot where they are close just to call me out? I can make a video of the entire log showing just how far off the BoostEST and Omni4Bar is if you really need help with seeing it?

 

[ZenkaiRacerDsM]

Yes thats what I got those readings off of was the first log



So is this what the boost always climbs to? Even on a lower boost setting and even at WGA pressure and no controller at all? Thatll tell u where the problem lies. If its able to do lower then its your controller

It is able to be lowered. I think at lower boost levels it is more stable.

 

[GSXftw]

At that spot you mentioned it's fairly close, but from 2000rpm to 5800rpm and from 6200rpm to 7200rpm it's off by as much as 5-6psi. Not sure what the point is picking one spot where they are close just to call me out? I can make a video of the entire log showing just how far off the BoostEST and Omni4Bar is if you really need help with seeing it?

Im picking that point because thats the point you reference when youre on SD broski. Keep your video and do your research please
http://www.ecmtuning.com/wiki/ecmlink101initialchecks

It is able to be lowered. I think at lower boost levels it is more stable.

Ah okay... thats interesting it means your boost controller is bleeding too much off. I do know EBC's start to get inaccurate 25 psi and above, and reason is the boost starts making them stick. That could be whats going on. If you have the MBC definitely do that, or if you had plans on going with the boost control feature in link, I use it and its pretty awesome, you may need the boost by gear when your boost starts hitting like it should and makes you spin too hehe

 

[WES_393]

2. You need to do what you can to keep your charge air and combustion chamber cool... hitting 213 coolant temp, of course it knocked. Bring a spray bottle and spray off your intercooler, UICP, Intake mani, let it evaporate and steal heat (like water/meth) let your car cool off between runs, dont sit and idle in the lanes (push it if you have to) leave your hood up as long as you can, even run your heater on full blast. If you have a cool down area you can even just spray the radiator after a run. You want to stage the tree with a coolant temp of 180 or so, and IAT as close to ambient as possible. If you wanna avoid knock you need to keep the thing cool.
3. The AFR may still be a bit lean. Every cars different, so definitely play around a bit, but I actually had the best knock suppression with an AFR of 10.9. Definitely sounds rich for some, and a lot of ppl run mid 11s, but 91 oct is shit.

Cold air intakes do help at times, mainly when youre maxing things out- If your turbo is maxxed in flow it gives it a denser air to grab from, and also if your intercooler is heatsoaking it makes its life a bit easier, but other than that its not a huge deal.

I totally agree with these statements, especially the parts in bold. I know just how difficult it can be to squeeze power out of 91 octane with an MHI turbo (small 16g), especially up here where the corrected DA is usually 8-9k. Like GSXftw said, the two major factors here are AFR and IAT. Are you still running the FIAV?

When I started out tuning I aimed for low 11's like everyone suggested. Running low 20's boost and 4-5° max timing resulted in 14's with the CEL lit up like Cheech and Chong. The most noticeable gains were from richening the mix to 10.7-10.9 and swapping out my rigged intercooler setup.

But I can say without a doubt, the best mod I ever did was switch to E85. The gas mileage flat-out sucks, but the power increase is well worth it. I could run ~27psi and 17* timing without a hint of knock. That shaved 1.6 off my ET.

 

[ZenkaiRacerDsM]

Yes I'm still running the FIAV. Ever since I put a front mount on the car it's been a pain to keep it cool. Running the fans all the time has helped a lot.

I'm running a triple core radiator and got the ETS street kit so that more air can get to the radiator. I also want to get one of those vents from RRE to install in the hood near the manifold.

 

[xxNocturnalxx]

I'm surprised to see such low timing numbers and richer AFRs. I know every car is different but I'm running high 11s with high teens timing and no knock on 92 on 25psi. and I'm on a 20g also. I agree that 91 plays some role but I'm thinking your IATs are simply getting too high as stated before.

 

[GSXftw]

Yeah the closest e85 for me is like 4 hrs away, so water/meth is an awesome substitute Watching your IATs go DOWN 20* from ambient throughout your run, and timing where you stop picking up anymore power=winning!

Zenkai I just found your dyno thread and realized youre on a TL turbo too! Good job!

I'm surprised to see such low timing numbers and richer AFRs. I know every car is different but I'm running high 11s with high teens timing and no knock on 92 on 25psi. and I'm on a 20g also. I agree that 91 plays some role but I'm thinking your IATs are simply getting too high as stated before.

After spending time on the ecm forums pulling my hair out watching people run 28 psi on a not even dialed in AFR on 92oct and not getting a hint of knock, with the same timing #s as my 22psi, and knocking, you just cant get stuck on #s... Maybe its the base timing?? But high teens on 25 psi is freakin awesome, it took injection for me to reach that

 

[xxNocturnalxx]

I'm at 5* verified through link. I think the OP has a lot of room left to grow which is good

 

[MY1GDSM]

I'm at 5* verified through link. I think the OP has a lot of room left to grow which is good

Verified threw link?

You mean as in Base timing? That can only be verified with a timing light...

Grounding timing in link and checking it will ALWAYS net you 5* as it is assuming you have set it right... . You could be a 15 or 0* and it will say the same thing. Try it out set your timing with a light at 10* and it will still read the same in a log.

Unless I'm looking at what you just said wrong

OP As far as I can see in the last logs you still have that "hole" in your timing maps.

Even though you might not be hitting those load cells at higher boost anytime you do run threw that part of the map you have jumps in timing as large as 10* from one cell to the next That is asking for trouble. Such drastic changes in timing alone can cause knock. I suprised knowbody else has said anything.

Also I can never understand why everyone trys to run 30psi on pump gas... .
Even if you get away with it most setups are not going to make any notable gains going that high IMHO and you will just end up dropping timing so low that you could make nearly the same power on lower boost with more timing not woring about if you are going to knock on you next tank of gas.

 

[xxNocturnalxx]

^ My fault, you are completely right, I need to check with a timing light.

 

[ZenkaiRacerDsM]

This is the timing map I'm at now. Working AFR's with this.

 

[GSXftw]

That one is a lot smoother, much better, no hole. My1gdsm is totally right tho more boost doesnt always=power. It was 24 where I drew the line and stopped adding. With the way your boost comes on and your low timing #s you are leaving A LOT of power on the table...Try a few gallons of race gas and youll see exactly what I mean. After that youll be hooked on octane. I used to do a 50/50 of pump/110, added 4* timing on the entire table, and picked up 4 mph trap speeds, but it is bad for your stock O2 if you still have one. Now with water/meth injection Im actually on more timing than the race gas tune, and its always there Definitely look into a kit in the future