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JDR7919

15+ Year Contributor
301
0
Jan 1, 2005
Titusville, Florida
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I went to the track last night. What can I improve please help.
This log was my best run
60' 1.9 Best of the night was a 1.7
330 5.554
1/8 8.531
mph 84.93
1000 10.994
1/4 13.121
mph 106.87
On about 25 psi 111 octane
A/F were about 11.6

Mods stock 7bolt arp headstuds gt3082r act 2600 act flywheel 1000cc afpr fmic 255wally afpr

What do I need to work on? Should I run more boost or run more timing? I think this is real slow for what I have done
 

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I would say that is real slow. My friend ran 10's in his 1G with that turbo and 33psi with around 20* of timing. He trapped higher in the 1/8th(110mph) than you did in the 1/4. He had a built motor which could take the abuse though.

I would leave the boost alone and up the timing. You are going to want two different tunes though, one for race gas and one for pump gas. Do you sill have race gas in the car? You don't want to tune for it without having it in the car to make more adjustments.
 
From only looking at a log file it is hard to say what to improve. I think you may be shifting after you are already out of your power band, it would be nice if you had a dyno sheet to show exactly where your car makes hp and torque.

Also I don't really know how much timing 1Gs like to see but I'm usually up around 17deg in my 2G at the top of third and fourth.
 
I just quickly looked at the log & nothing popped out big time but your defently down on power. At 25 psi that should be an 11 second car, especially on 111. I ran a 12.2 @ 119 with a 2.0 60 or my 3052 (aka 3076). I also saw that trap speed my first time at the track years ago with my evoIII @ 20psi. Tming could defently use some work, I run 19-20 deg on pump gas & meth injection, you should be able to run atleast that much. What kind of air/fuel ratios you running? Airflow looks descent in that log but it looks like your MAF may need some calibration, as if you were actually running 25psi, your airflow looks to be elevated from what your actually seeing. Shifts look abit slow as well but you have much bigger issues as it appears the power isn't there.
 
Yeah it has to be timing because that is very slow for that turbo with dsmlink and race fuel. 11.6 is actually a little rich too for race fuel you should be in the 12.1 range on race but I bet it's more timing than a/f ratio.
 
I would say that is real slow. My friend ran 10's in his 1G with that turbo and 33psi with around 20* of timing. He trapped higher in the 1/8th(110mph) than you did in the 1/4. He had a built motor which could take the abuse though.

I would leave the boost alone and up the timing. You are going to want two different tunes though, one for race gas and one for pump gas. Do you sill have race gas in the car? You don't want to tune for it without having it in the car to make more adjustments.

Yes I still have a good amount of fuel

From only looking at a log file it is hard to say what to improve. I think you may be shifting after you are already out of your power band, it would be nice if you had a dyno sheet to show exactly where your car makes hp and torque.

Also I don't really know how much timing 1Gs like to see but I'm usually up around 17deg in my 2G at the top of third and fourth.

This is my 99 gsx

I just quickly looked at the log & nothing popped out big time but your defently down on power. At 25 psi that should be an 11 second car, especially on 111. I ran a 12.2 @ 119 with a 2.0 60 or my 3052 (aka 3076). I also saw that trap speed my first time at the track years ago with my evoIII @ 20psi. Tming could defently use some work, I run 19-20 deg on pump gas & meth injection, you should be able to run atleast that much. What kind of air/fuel ratios you running? Airflow looks descent in that log but it looks like your MAF may need some calibration, as if you were actually running 25psi, your airflow looks to be elevated from what your actually seeing. Shifts look abit slow as well but you have much bigger issues as it appears the power isn't there.

So in this log my timing is about 15 deg so would I need to advance it 4 deg? Could you explain the proper way to advance timing? Can I increase timing across the board and what would be a safe place to start?

Do you have a log I can look at?

I have still been working on calibrating the maf

I still have to install NLTS so I hope that help with the shifts.
 
Maf calibration is the first thing you need to do since it is not done. A MAP sensor will make this process much easier and quicker.

After that is done this is the amount I would try to raise the timing with that fuel:

500, 1000, 1500, 2000, 2500, 3000, 3500, 4000, 4500, 5000, 5500, 6000, 6500, 7000, 7500, 8000
011, 0008, 0009, 0011, 0010, 0008, 0007, 0006, 0008, 0008, 0007, 0003, 0005, 0005, 0005, 0006

See what that does. You can increase them one or two points at a time until you get to the numbers I posted. Just make sure to keep the curve smooth. Pay attention to the ecu estimates to know if the curve is smooth. Example of what you should up the timing the first time:

500, 1000, 1500, 2000, 2500, 3000, 3500, 4000, 4500, 5000, 5500, 6000, 6500, 7000, 7500, 8000
004, 0000, 0002, 0004, 0003, 0003, 0003, 0002, 0004, 0003, 0002, 0000, 0002, 0002, 0002, 0003

That should give you a nice increase of power. If everything goes well and it doesn't start knocking, up it a little more a each rpm point. Keep doing that process until you start knocking more than about 2 or until you advance each rpm point the numbers I mentioned. You can post another log after those adjustments if you want my opinion before you do anything else.
 
NLTS will drop your time considerably.

Your airflow sliders look sort of weird. Why are you adding airflow across the board?

You could probably have at least gotten away with zero'd out timing sliders, given that there is no knock. My guess is that this was your tune from using pump gas? You definitely have to modify your tune when you switch fuels. Race gas generally has a slower burn rate, so you actually need to bump timing to really take advantage of it. When you keep your pump gas timing curve, you are missing out on a lot of power.
 
Maf calibration is the first thing you need to do since it is not done. A MAP sensor will make this process much easier and quicker.

I have been looking into getting a 3.3bar within the next week or so. What can I do in the mean time? I have been reading jeffgst's page I thought I just had to get boostest and actual boost the same bettween 5500 and 6000 rpms. So I think I need to bring down 2000 hz slider

Your airflow sliders look sort of weird. Why are you adding airflow across the board?
I have a Gm 3" maft
 
I would get a 5BAR if I were you. A 3.3 bar sensor will only read to about 33psi. You can do the calibraion without a map sensor though.

Lower the boost to wastegate pressure to bring he hz reading down in the 5,000-5,500 range. Then adjust whatever slider is in that range accordingly. After that, up the boost slightly until you are getting a hz reading in that rpm range for the next airflow slider and adjust accordingly. Repeat this until you get to your desired(current) boost level. After you are done with this, you will most likely have to mess with your fuel sliders a bit to gett them where you want.
 
Ok I will do that and let you know.
Thanks for the help!!!!
I know the durmax comes with a 3.3bar what comes with the 5bar?
 
You can also get a 5bar map from Zeitronix for $119.

And since this is a 99GSX if you compare that you are essentially trapping the same speed as me and have a B16G on 91 octane you need to figure out where the missing power is and you will be way faster.
 
I made a few changes I have the boostest closer in the higher hz. I also increased timing the car responded really well. I pick up hp and torque.
Im I going in the right direction

New logs

ECMTuning User Support Forums
 
I would raise the 8,000 timing slider to match the 7,500 slider. Even though you are not revving that high it does have an impact on your cars performance. The ecu looks at the 7,500 and 8,000 point and connects the dots basically. So halfway between (7,750) your timiing will be in the middle of what the two surrounding sliders are at. So your would be at 17 or 18. Basically your ecu is pulling timing past 7,500 because of the lower 8,000rpm slider.

You can also raise some of the lower sliders like I had mentioned too.
 
Ok thanks I will give that a try. I still have qtr tank of this gas left so Im trying to only drive the car when Im tuning it.
I will post another log with those changes.
 
Timing is looking much better now & like you say, I would think you'll feel like the car has really started to wake up. Looks like your getting the hang of adjusting it. Depending on your perticular setup peak cylinder pressure is usually somewhere in the 4500-6000rpm range, so this is where its most likely to knock, so you may have to back it off abit in this area (just in general, but you should be fine with the 111). Basically you want a steady increase all the way to redline (no big bumps either as this will tend to knock). With more "aggressive" fuels (like the 111 you have in the tank), your timing curve can be more aggressive to match. You'll see there's an option on the timing window to show 2g estimates, this give you a pretty good idea of where you'll timing will end up (well unless your seeing knock) & a good way to know where to set the sliders (as just upping the sliders in equal increments doesn't always give you a linear result). Here's a log of mine from the track, has more knock then I like to see but I was pushing the limits of the smallish meth nozzle I was running. So thats pump/meth & the run was a 12.54 @ 116.9 with a 2.03 60ft (fwd).
 

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Yea something seems wrong, Im running 22psi on my 3052 (3076r) and trapping 114mph, stock 7-bolt too. I have cams, but that wouldnt explain the ~8mph difference in trap.

Post these logs on the DSMLink forums if you havent already, there are some really smart guys on there that can help you out, and know DSMLink in and out.
 
That knock is nothing to worry about. Remember to save that tune to your laptop and load a different one for the pump gas.
 
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