Weird sound, oil press.,& crank case pressure issue, all realated?

[shempt]

Well after the HP competition about a week ago, I immediately noticed a weird sound coming from the front end of the engine (where the belts are). Sounds like a quiet supercharger whine. I don't think it's the power steering as the steering doesn't affect it.
As I was driving it home that day, I stopped along the way for a few minutes to recheck the car. When I restarted it, the sound was gone until I drove off. I finished driving it home and noticed it sounded the same in loudness and pitch during the drive. I boosted the car and there wasn't any noticeable loss in power or change in pitch of the sound. The wind masked the chance to really tell on the hi-way.

When I got it home I parked it outside for about 2 hours. Then when I drove it into the garage, I noticed the oil light was on and the stock pressure needle stayed at the bottom. So I shut it down right away. I am concerned about oil starvation again. My worst nightmare all over again. All internals and oil pump is new.

The sound is gone as it's parked and cold but I hear a different sound that's slight. The whining comes back when the car is warmed up again. I took off the plastic timing cover behind the pulleys. I bolted back up all the pulleys and belts to start the car tonight to diagnose where the sound is coming from. No whine sound but a sound like a loose wheel cog is more audible. It might be natural. Nothing seems loose. The T-belt tensioner pin slid right in both before and after the two 20sec idle tests. So I think the belt is on OK unless the tensioner pulley needs adjusting?

I did have the oil cap off when I idled it for a few seconds and noticed that there was an extreme amount of air pushing and pulling out of the oil filler cap. When I revved the engine the air flow seemed to reduce. (if anything, it didn't get more intense. (of course this isn't under load or boost)

I don't have an extra hand for another compression test but I checked the plugs. I put in new ones before the HP competition and the center white insulator is now mostly brown and the prongs are either dark brown or black. (no oil on them) They were gaped to .028.

I'm concerned whether the piston rings are not seated or causing a leak somewhere. Or the oil pump is going out. I do not remember on previous occasions when idling that the oil filler cap had that much air moving in and out. Could it be that the PCV valve and hose is not connected to the intake manifold any longer? Instead the PVC outlet is connected to the other crank case breather outlet, and a filter before it is joined at the intake tube to the turbo. (the intake mani is capped off) I was trying to reduce the previous issue of blow-by and exhaust smoke after a heavy launch and letting off of the gas. And to reduce the + crank pressures.

One assumption is that the stock oil sender is bad and/or the connector to it. I just reconnected the terminal and the oil light went out but the oil pressure needle still remained at the bottom! Where does the pressure gage get it's signal? Isn't it from the pressure sender as well?

I do hear oil trickling down from the filler cap hole after I stop the engine. And I do see that the oil level right after shutoff is at its half way mark as opposed to the 3/4 mark before I started it. So I think I'm getting oil circulation, but I still wonder if I'm getting adequate pressure and flow. Something is making that supercharger sound and it's making me concerned. I don't want to run the car to diagnose that sound until I'm certain that the oil pressure gage is reading some oil pressure again. I don't want to re-re-rebuild.

I drained the oil. This oil was the 1st batch of Mobil-1 instead of dino oil. The filter wasn't changed because the previous oil changes were frequent. But I think a little dino that was in the filter was mixed with the Mobil-1. And maybe that is why I see silver streaks in this newer oil. (Only used for 80 miles) No metal flakes are present, but looks just as if I mixed a little dab of graphite in it. I'm not sure if it's assembly lube being that this is my 3rd or 4th oil change after 500~700miles on the new engine.
Any help is appreciated.

Sorry for the long question, but I want to cover all the pertinent stuff, that I'm aware of, the first time.


EDIT: My balance shafts are elimitated.
ew

 

[jdmjason]

First off, don't start the car till your positive you have oil pressure....you don't want to take any risk in damaging your engine. You can buy a cheap gauge at any parts store and easily connect it to the head, which is what i reccomend to get accurate oil pressure readings.

I had a similar situation happen with my friends car. When we pulled the oil pad, it had flakes of metal. Then we looked up into the block, and saw the bearing had spun on the front balance shaft....which would explain the no oil pressure.

Do you have your bs still in?

 

[shempt]

Well, I do have my BS removed.
I tapped an oil primer where a hex bolt (allen head) was capping off an opening that the factory didn't use. It's located facing toward the ground and below the larger oil pressure sender. Problem is that the oil primer never worked by turning on when it's supposed to. So for now it's just sitting with oil in the reservoir till I connect it again. I could drain the line and tap there for the new oil gage. I studied the oil housing before I installed it and I have a hard time knowing if this would be a good place to put another gage or continue to have this oil primer tapped there. I think it should be a good place as any, since the oil galley is joined with the ones and it's right next to the factory large oil sender.
In short. I do not think this oil primer has anything to do with my current problem. It's just a dormant oil reservoir that is not uncapped until a power source opens it up.
The wires to both oil senders on the oil housing were getting pretty bad. So tonight I just rewired them to make sure that they are connected soundly. Any oil gage brands you recommend and where to tap it?
ew

 

[jdmjason]

the head will be fine to tap for a gauge...and any cheapo mech. gauge will do.

you know though...since your oil light isn't coming on, it might just be the sender and wires thats causing your gauge to read 0....but get that oil guage on the head to make sure.


if its NOT that....


and if you already have your balance shafts out, i would check your oil pump. Is it an oem one or aftermarket.

I do know that some people are having problems with the blades on aftermarket ones. That would cause the oil pressure loss and the metallic color in your oil.