Weird charging problems I dont know if battery or alternator

[bbray]

Hello everyone.

I am having a problem with my charging system. My stereo reciever has a volt gauge on it and it has been reading 9.3-11.0 volts at idle and when I drive. Sometimes it goes up to about 12 volts but usually when I am driving it is around 10.1-10.5 volts. My radio's volume will sometimes cut out for a second and also sometimes my lights are not as bright as usual.

I took my car to kragen and had them hook up their meter to my battery to test the charging system. They said my alternator was not even showing that it was there. They said that I had a bad alternator.

When I got home I left the car running and disconnected the battery. My car did not shut off and the volts stayed the same. Doesn't that mean that the alternator is fine? I was told that if the car stays on then it is the battery but kragen said the battery was fine and the alternator was bad.

I am thinking I am going to disconnect the battery and bring it the kragen to get it tested by itself. That way I can know how it is running. Does anyone know what is wrong?

Thanks.

 

[1992awdlaser]

If the car will run without the battery then the alternator is working. It does not mean that it is working like it should be though. An alternator can put out low voltage but still keep a car running. Having the car run off the alternator will kill it quickly. So, I reccomend not doing that test.

 

[Splitpi]

What does the voltage read at the battery with the car off?

What does the voltage read at the battery with the car on?

 

[TjPhillips36]

I would just take the battery and alternator out and get them both tested. If they tested it already and said the alternator is bad then it's probably the alternator...

 

[bbray]

What does the voltage read at the battery with the car off?

What does the voltage read at the battery with the car on?

I just turned the car to acc and my radio volt meter was 9.2-9.4 volts.

Then I started my car for a second and my radio volt meter was 11.5-11.7 volts.

It usually is in the upper 11's when I start my car but after I drive for a little then it will drop back down to the low 10's.

 

[bbray]

This is also the fourth alternator I have had in 2 years. My first ones have all gone out within a couple of months of each other but this one has lasted over 1 year. They are all from kragen, which i know is not good, but it is had to beat when you have a lifetime warranty.

 

[danielbui]

This is also the fourth alternator I have had in 2 years. My first ones have all gone out within a couple of months of each other but this one has lasted over 1 year. They are all from kragen, which i know is not good, but it is had to beat when you have a lifetime warranty.

Check the tension on your timing belt. see how much slack you have. If there is more slack than normal or feels generally like it should feel, try tightening it some more and see if that resolves your problem.

 

[TjPhillips36]

This is also the fourth alternator I have had in 2 years. My first ones have all gone out within a couple of months of each other but this one has lasted over 1 year. They are all from kragen, which i know is not good, but it is had to beat when you have a lifetime warranty.

Do you have any heatshields protecting the alternator from the extreme heat the turbo/O2 housing put off?

 

[Splitpi]

bbray, I'm asking you to measure with a multimeter the voltage at the battery. The voltage on the accessory line isn't what I'm interested in for problem solving it. If everything checks out fine at the battery, then we will start debugging the accessory line power.

 

[bbray]

Do you have any heatshields protecting the alternator from the extreme heat the turbo/O2 housing put off?

I only have the heatshield on the exhaust manifold. I do not have any around my turbo or 3" downpipe.

bbray, I'm asking you to measure with a multimeter the voltage at the battery. The voltage on the accessory line isn't what I'm interested in for problem solving it. If everything checks out fine at the battery, then we will start debugging the accessory line power.

I know you wanted me to measure it wit a multimeter but i do not have one. That is why I told you what the volts were with the radio voltmeter. Sorry. I will try to go rent one from kragen on monday.

 

[TjPhillips36]

I only have the heatshield on the exhaust manifold. I do not have any around my turbo or 3" downpipe.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/239215-no-heat-shield.html#post151001227

 

[bbray]

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/239215-no-heat-shield.html#post151001227

I really appreciate all of your help so far.

Would the stock turbo heat shield still fit since I have an evo3 16g and my o2 eliminating exhaust?

 

[TjPhillips36]

I found I had to find a 14b heatshield and cut it a little to fit around my E316G and O2 housing. Many people just pick up a sheet of metal and create their own to help protect their alternator when running different turbos/O2 housings. I think a quick search would probably yield some results.

Another option that completely eliminates your A/C is a alternator relocation to the firewall side of the motor, Jay Racing sells a kit that does this.

Some people never have problems running without a heatshield, others do. I noticed underhood temperatures went down a lot just from feel of opening my hood when I put heatshields back on.

 

[bbray]

I found I had to find a 14b heatshield and cut it a little to fit around my E316G and O2 housing. Many people just pick up a sheet of metal and create their own to help protect their alternator when running different turbos/O2 housings. I think a quick search would probably yield some results.

Another option that completely eliminates your A/C is a alternator relocation to the firewall side of the motor, Jay Racing sells a kit that does this.

Some people never have problems running without a heatshield, others do. I noticed underhood temperatures went down a lot just from feel of opening my hood when I put heatshields back on.

Where can I buy sheet metal at?

 

[TjPhillips36]

Usually home depot, lowes, other building supply stores...

 

[bbray]

Well today I brought my alternator and battery to kragen to get them both tested. The first place said they both passed and then I brought just the alternator to another kragen and it failed. I had them order another one on my warranty. Is it possible for them to pass and then ten minutes later fail?

 

[CRAIG___]

on my gst i would be drivin and all of a suden my lights would dim and a i had no power at all car would still run but if i tried to go it would try and cut off i could let it sit for awhile pop the clutch and it would be fine again until about a hour later and would do the same took alternator off had it tested was bad put new one on and runs like a champ i believe thats ## prob.

 

[bbray]

So today I got and installed a new alternator and I charged my battery. I also bought some sheet metal and made a heat shield that covers most of the turbo and it goes all the way down and covers the down pipe until right after the alternator. Hopefully this will keep the alternator cool enough. I guess I will get to test it all out tomorrow. Thanks for all of your help and I will let you know what happens.

 

[fatherbubble]

If you took the alternator to Autozone or a place like that their tester machines don't read anything under the 12volt put out. So if yours is doing 11.5 it will show up as dead. your best bet will be to go to a local shop an get a rebuilt one with the 14 volt upgrade output.
The price for it is only like 15 bucks more. Mine cost about 100 with tax, also if you got alot of audio equipment in the car its the best way to go.

 

[Daaan]

If you have any aftermarket amp in your car with sub(s) you will need a capacitor to keep you battery/alt alive.

 

[fatherbubble]

a 2 or 3 frag one will do also if you want to get a new battery instead go with a kenitics battery the 1400 one will fit in the engine bay with a modded battery bracket since it sits up 3/4 an inch higher than stock but its 1.5 inches shorter on width so you have more room on your intake pipes there. The battery can handle 1400 watts of continues power for 70 hours. I just tried it out. It ran my whole system with 1000 watts on 2 jl 10w6.

 

[bbray]

I dont have any subs or amps. The only reason why I got another alternator from kragen was because it was under warranty and I got it for free. After driving my car a yesterday and a little today it still goes down to the low 10 volts sometimes. Most of the time now it reads 11-12.5 volts. I now think my battery might be the problem even though it tested fine at kragen. What do you all think?

 

[Defiant]

That alternator's crap, just like the one of theirs you replaced. A new alternator will feed the system over 14V so long as there's a battery there at all.

 

[bomper04]

That alternator's crap, just like the one of theirs you replaced. A new alternator will feed the system over 14V so long as there's a battery there at all.

Yupp, that's what my original guess was after looking at the post. normally with the car on (idle or under normal operation) the voltage on the battery should read around 14v with the alternator running correctly. i guess measuring tthe voltage from tthe radio would have slight drops in voltage because of the circuit and resistors..not sure on thatt one but yea..you gett whatt i'm saying .

oh yea, and get a voltmeter or multimeter, whatever..it's incredibly helpful when you need to diagnose electrical problems, etc. keep one handy, tthey don't run for thatt much either.