WB02 Vs. Knock detector

[xxraptor660xx]

Basically I want to turn boost up. I am wondering what would be more beneficial to tune with. Money is a factor, but I want a safe, and accurate tune.

My first option is using something that will detect knock. I have a pocket logger, which I've spent countless hours trying to make work (I get a no connection msg), so that's out of the picture for me. I was looking into an eBay knock detector, which seems pretty reliable.

My 2nd option is buying the "JAWS" WB02 kit, for under $100. It is accurate to .01 lambada, which is pretty dead-on I think.

Any suggestions/help is greatly appreciated!

 

[Black_Bullet]

A wide band is a must to allow you to see your air fuel ratio, but having a good afr doesnt mean you cant get knock... Having your logger working would be most ideal, but i know how you feel on that as my logger is a PITA also. For me, the cheapest route of getting a good base tune on your car while allowing you a whole slew of options was this

www.dsmchips.com

Im at the point now that me and my dsm friend burns our own chips with the eprom rom tuning software so we dont need or run keydiver any more but keydiver is good. It allows you to tune timing/ afr/ gives you no lift to shift, stuttarbox, enhanced closed loop operation for fuel economy, 2g/evo mass compensation, inj compensation etc...
It also includes knock watching features, such as turning your stock boost gauge into a knock counter, and/ or you can have the check engine light come on after x amount of knock. ( Whatever you want it to be. ) Now of course the check engine light coming on for knock wont benefit you if your CEL is on all the time...
Another thing that is the most benefital of all, which not many tuners do or know about it seems is, a knock light or knock buzzer... You were on the right track with what you were saying, my dsm guru friend wired up a knock buzzer in my laser to i "think" the purge soleniod ( some empty solenoid was used, dont remember exactly were or how it was done, ) but then he inputed it so that once the ecu gets anything over 10 counts of knock it will send a signal to that solenoid that set off the knock buzzer ( which is tucked under the dash out of sight ) that buzzes loud enough to hear over my loud exhaust and music blasting.
This allows me be able to take my foot off the gas when getting knock while doing a pull or going down the track instead of waiting till the end of the pull to view a logger, or trying to drive and focuas on watching boost, wideband, rpms, and focas on shifting all at once. Which is impossible to do since my car goes thru gears pretty fast i cant look away for very long.

Its a good idea, has came in handy already for my car, i need to convince him on doing a write up for it, if more dsmers had this feature on there cars i think the number of blow engines due to user error would cut in half

 

[xxraptor660xx]

Thanks for your input.
I've heard that the most reliable knock detectors, are only the ones that are actually hooked up to the knock sensor. I believe the solenoid you're reffering to is part of the boost purge solenoid.

 

[bling5tatus]

why don't you figure out why your logger won't work?


Also, a knock light/buzzer is a good idea to have.

 

[xxraptor660xx]

why don't you figure out why your logger won't work?


Also, a knock light/buzzer is a good idea to have.

I've virtually tried everything..

 

[bling5tatus]

Have you tried a known working cable? A known working Palm? A known working version of the logging software?

 

[xxraptor660xx]

Have you tried a known working cable? A known working Palm? A known working version of the logging software?

All brand new. IS having bad software going to cause no connection at all??

 

[Black_Bullet]

Mines does that sometimes and sometimes it dies, or just cuts off, because the cable is all screwed up; but it eventually works. Maybe you should invest in a new logger if thats going to be your own source of watching knock; or you could go one of those other ways i mentioned above.

 

[xxraptor660xx]

Mines does that sometimes and sometimes it dies, or just cuts off, because the cable is all screwed up; but it eventually works. Maybe you should invest in a new logger if thats going to be your own source of watching knock; or you could go one of those other ways i mentioned above.

Who does cheap ECU socketing, and what stage/options on your chip?

 

[Black_Bullet]

Look in that link I gave you above. It has all the info in there.
Plus you can always get custom features not listed on the page for a specific tune and what not, and whats even better is if you DO have a safc you can fine tune with it and use the chip tune as the base tune.

Im set at 11.1 air fuel ratio, 19degs timing, with compensation for a 2g mass and 850s and the n/t 47.6psi fuel pressure regulator and I just recently turned boost up to 19psi from my original 17 daily psi and its not showing any knock yet. I have 5500k 2-step, 6k nlts and a bunch of other stuff on my chip.

Talk to a wiseman named Steve on these boards, he does chips/ and sockets I believe or you can do what I originally did and send your ecu to keydiver and Jeff will socket and install the chip in it and all you have to do is plug and play and drive! Or you can just have Jeff send you the chip and find someone to socket it local like at a computer boards specialist place. Confirm you have eprom and your good to go, shouldnt cost more than 200 to get a stage3 chip and have it socketed and installed by Jeff.

 

[xxraptor660xx]

Do you have the 2-3 step stutter box? Isn't that harmful?

 

[Black_Bullet]

Do you have the 2-3 step stutter box? Isn't that harmful?

I dont find it harmful you just get a nice backfire of flame

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=195989&highlight=no+lift+to+shift
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=260469&highlight=2+step
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=268402&highlight=stuttarbox

 

[xxraptor660xx]

Sorry to be a pest but what about the octane reset, and fuel cut eliminator..That seems a little dangerous. Basically my question is, If i get the stage 1 chip, what settings should I run without destroying my car?

 

[laserspeeddemon]

Getting back on topic.

If I had to choose, I would tune for knock over Wideband reading. Simply because you can have a good A/F on the wideband and knocking to shit resulting in catastrophic engine failure. In the adverse option, you will never run a dangerous A/F and not get knock, in fact you will probably run low A/F and get knock or phantom knock, but I'd rather be safe then sorry.

 

[Black_Bullet]

It all depends on how aggressive you are with the tune and what gas you have available to you...
Remember if you set up a knock light/ or knock buzzer and you use the stock boost gauge as a knock counter, AND get the CEL to come on at x amount of knock ( I say 10counts) as soon as it senses knock just left off the gas and figure out the culprit.... So therefore with that said how would you destroy anything? Youd have better precautionary measures of watching knock. Both of these together will give you first hand warning and help you avoid knock better than a logger will.

Octane eliminator is good, you dont have to drive around limping on lower timing due to previous knock, it resets to full value everytime you turn off and on your car. Good thing imo. Fuel cut eliminator, you dont have to remove it completely you can just raise it up by 50 % or something. Another good thing is the chip takes away the air flow cap which keeps leaning out after a certain amount of air flow thru the mass as it refuses to read any more air at a certain point.

http://www.dsmchips.com/stage1.htm

I mean a good base tune is like the settings I told you that I have, but you can always add more timing and lean it out further, it just depends on what kind of boost your running.
And if you have meth, its a whole nother ball game.

In addition, something I left out, its only 20 dollars for a reburn if you wnt a new chip with new settings, and once the ecu is socketed you can pop chips in and out yourself.

Edit--(( After viewing the webpage; his prices went up a little for the chip, it only costed me 120 for stage3 back when i did it.But its still not bad prices as this will make your car run better and more consistently than a safc will. ))

 

[Black_Bullet]

Getting back on topic.

If I had to choose, I would tune for knock over Wideband reading. Simply because you can have a good A/F on the wideband and knocking to shit resulting in catastrophic engine failure. In the adverse option, you will never run a dangerous A/F and not get knock, in fact you will probably run low A/F and get knock or phantom knock, but I'd rather be safe then sorry.

A wide band is a must to allow you to see your air fuel ratio, but having a good afr doesnt mean you cant get knock...

Were on topic here.