Wastegate not working?

[sheffester]

hey everyone. i just got my car going today, and is now doing the same problem as before i took it off the road. when i build boost, it holds it, but seems to stall the motor, and wont let it pull. i only have the original boost gauge, and it reads fine, it just wont seem to go. when i took it apart last time when i replaced my motor (long story), i found my wastegate arm that goes to my manifold was frozen. i have since then unfroze it, but its still really hard if not impossible to move. Would that be causing this problem?? when there is no load, and im in neutral, it runs fine, and sounds just right. as soon as i start moving, revs build as normal, then as soon as i start boosting, it pulls, i can hear it spooling, but it holds the motor back. it goes, but very slowly. Anyone know what could be causing this? or if im even on the right track?

 

[tkelly27]

Does anyone else think it could be my turbo?? Or my Cam Angle Sensor???

Are you looking for an excuse to get a new turbo? Have you tried all the cheap and easy fixes everyone has suggested for you to try? We all really think it's a boost leak. For some leaks, when your intake is under the mild vacuum that occurs under NA, it's self sealing. As soon as it hits boost, it will start pushing past. I've seen looooong slits in IC pipes that seal up under N/A conditions but when boosting open up and leak real badly. That would totally cause what you are talking about, perfect idle, running good, as soon as the turbo spools it all goes to hell. If you've ever been in a carburated car that bogged down when it was rich (stalling in intersections anyone? : ), you'd know that to rich is VERY bad for happy running

I would seriously consider disconnecting the WG arm and going without boost for the remainder of the break in period. One slip up under boost and you'll be screwed. That goes especially if you're getting really bad rich conditions due to a boost leak, you'll wash your rings out in a heartbeat. The other thing that would show you is that it's not RPM related, only related to boost. I'm sure you'll find that out as soon as you do a BLT though...

 

[sheffester]

Kind of, . It would be nice. I have performed a boost leak test, and fixed the 2 leaks I found. One was gasket related, and the other was a loose hose clamp. It now will run great, amazing. I ran it fine for like 5 miles, and it was the best I had ever seen it run. But then after a while, after it warms up completely, it starts to act up. It starts to act as if there is a leak, but there isn't any. I can shut the car off, turn it back on, and it will run great for a mile or 2, then act up again. Does anyone know what this could be caused by???

 

[DSM4me44]

Could be a problem with you ECU. My buddies talon had issues and once another ecu was connected, it ran fine.

 

[tkelly27]

When they run right there is nothing better!

HHmmm... You don't have a logger do you? That might be helpful.

Something to try in the mean time (that may or may not fix anything, but is good to do anyways), disconnect your coil pack, clean that 6 wire connector and reconnect it. I've read about the cable being too short and under hard pulling/heat cycles it working itself loose. When it happened to me the car took a crap, but yours could be intermittent and you really won't hurt anything doing that.

Is it heat related? Or just time?

I'd offer my ECU for you to borrow, but you're way the heck over on a different coast

 

[sheffester]

I havn't timed it yet, but am planning on it today. I know the timing isn't that far out of wack, but it's not gonna hurt to check. Thanks tkelly. It would be nice if more people in the area had this kind of car, but there is only one other one that I know of. Now, to me, I honestly don't know if it's heat or time related. I will check today. I mean, I guess it could be heat. But when it starts acting up, I can turn it off, let it sit for a little bit (10-30 seconds), and its fine for a minute or 2. I don't have a logger. I'm tight on money, I'm just trying to get it running 100%. I am gonna buy new plugs (NGK BPR7ES??) in the next couple of days, because when I checked, they were very dry and black. I am also going to gap them. I will check the coil pack, and see what that does me. I am hoping it's just the timing, and the fact that it's a brand new motor. Well, thanks again to all that have helped. Any more suggestions or knowledge is greatly appreciated.

 

[DSM4me44]

I wouldn't get the 7's. Since your car is stock, you would be better off running the NGK brp6es. Modifications and running higher boost is when you might wanna considering switching over. Its one of those things that just because people say the 7s are better, you have to have the set up to run them. Otherwise, the factory would be puttin in brp8es in their cars. I say stick with the 6's.

If you order them specifically for your car, then they will be gapped already. They come gapped at .028, which is good.

 

[sheffester]

Well, I would be getting them through NAPA. I figured they came gapped. But when visually checking them because a friend suggested it, I could see that some gaps were smaller than others. So, it's just one of those things. Alright, I will get the 6's. I remember reading somewhere else about 7's, but thanks for the new info. Any more is greatly wanted. Thanks again!

 

[DSM4me44]

I had good luck with the 6's. I just recently switched over because i upgraded my turbo and got methanol injection and am running alot higher boost.

You will have a better feeling car with the 6's for now.

 

[sheffester]

Yea. I have Champion 3415's in right now, and according to NAPA, the gap on those is .044 according to the NAPA website. They didn't even list the NGK BPR6ES as an option.

 

[DSM4me44]

Summit Racing has them as well as Advanced Auto Parts. .044 is wayyyyyyy to big.

Also, stay away from champion. Those are for lawnmowers, cars need something a big better.

Yeah, get some 6's at .028 gap and you'll be happy for sure!

 

[sheffester]

I agree, but I mean, could the Napa database be that far off? I mean, I worked there, and that is very far off. The smallest gap Napa offers for my car is .032. Do you think that could be my entire problem right there?? My theory: Car runs great up to temp, hits certain temperature, and plugs get hot, and the gap being too big causes it to miss-fire. I shut the car off, it cools down enough to allow the plugs to work, then it runs fine. And then a continuous cycle. Am I very far off? Or does that sound plausible?

 

[DSM4me44]

Can you hear your car missing when its at idle? Yeah, they say gap them between .026 and .032 at most. The sweet spot tends to be .028. Having good plugs and good wires can make a huge difference. Im not 100% sure but that might be the gap for N/A. When I get my plugs at summit they try to give me the NGK bpr7es-11, these are for the non turbos. Same plug but gapped differently. I have to inform them i need the bpr7es. Those are the ones gapped for the turboed cars.

 

[sheffester]

It doesn't seem to miss too much at idle. Its only after it gets up to temperature. I have Belden wires on it now. I called napa today, and they said a gap thats twice the size really won't effect the car, and that my theory is wrong. So, I am picking up 4 6's tonight, and will try them then. Until then, any one have anything to add? or suggestions??? Thanks again.

 

[DSM4me44]

Ignore them. If a gap wasn't all that important then all plugs would be gapped at .025. That way anyone could run them if they needed a gap of 0 to .050
I got my car and it would stutter REAL bad under any boost. I took out my plugs and the gap was close to .048!

I bought a set of NGKs, and it felt like a new car.

 

[sheffester]

Ok, I am getting the plugs today. That is, if NAPA isn't retarded. So, I am going to install the plugs and hopefully time it. Any other suggestions?? And what if it isn't the plugs? Any suggestions on where I should go after??? Thanks again DSM4me44 for all the help, and to everyone else, thanks.

 

[DSM4me44]

I'm not sure how old your wires are. Just go over them and check them while your puttin in your new plugs.

 

[tkelly27]

Champions put a K car into the 10's, so don't count them out My cars are always happier with NGK's though.

.044 gap + fouling = bad news.

Look under your hood, there will be an emissions sticker, it won't say .044 gap. Unless I'm feelign lazy I never trust the pre-gapped plugs either. They always work, but there is no way to know they are right if you don't do it yourself.

I think if you have the proper gap with the proper plug your car will run a lot better. I had a no start that was caused by overgapped platinum plugs that were fouled. Took me all friggan day to figure it out

 

[sheffester]

Well, the new plugs are in, and it does the same thing. It runs great until it reaches a certain temp, then starts running like crap. So, its deffinetly a heat related issue. I just don't have any ideas at all of what it could be. Any one have any ideas??? Thanks again to you all for your help so far.

 

[sheffester]

Anyone have any ideas???