Wastegate not working?

[sheffester]

hey everyone. i just got my car going today, and is now doing the same problem as before i took it off the road. when i build boost, it holds it, but seems to stall the motor, and wont let it pull. i only have the original boost gauge, and it reads fine, it just wont seem to go. when i took it apart last time when i replaced my motor (long story), i found my wastegate arm that goes to my manifold was frozen. i have since then unfroze it, but its still really hard if not impossible to move. Would that be causing this problem?? when there is no load, and im in neutral, it runs fine, and sounds just right. as soon as i start moving, revs build as normal, then as soon as i start boosting, it pulls, i can hear it spooling, but it holds the motor back. it goes, but very slowly. Anyone know what could be causing this? or if im even on the right track?

 

[DSMunknown]

hey everyone. i just got my car going today, and is now doing the same problem as before i took it off the road. when i build boost, it holds it, but seems to stall the motor, and wont let it pull. i only have the original boost gauge, and it reads fine, it just wont seem to go. when i took it apart last time when i replaced my motor (long story), i found my wastegate arm that goes to my manifold was frozen. i have since then unfroze it, but its still really hard if not impossible to move. Would that be causing this problem?? when there is no load, and im in neutral, it runs fine, and sounds just right. as soon as i start moving, revs build as normal, then as soon as i start boosting, it pulls, i can hear it spooling, but it holds the motor back. it goes, but very slowly. Anyone know what could be causing this? or if im even on the right track?

First off, no. The WG flapper valve (assuming it is staying closed) will have the effect of overboosting.

Secondly, you weren't too clear about what gauge you're actually using - aftermarket or OEM? If you don't have an accurate aftermarket gauge, get one.

Thirdly, just replace that WG actuator. If it continuously seizes up, it's not worth your worry. You can find an upgraded actuator here.

Fourthly, when you apply a "fair" amount of throttle, the RPMs rise and boost pressure rises, but the car doesn't increase in speed? This sounds like a classic case of clutch slippage.

 

[sheffester]

Sorry about not being clear enough.

Yes, im using the OEM gauge for now. I am kind of tight on money, and havnt gotten around to getting an aftermarket one. I just dropped 3k on a new motor, and money is low. But thats definitely next on my list.

Wow, is that the cheapest i will find one? is there any other method i could use???

And yes, the speed does increase, and i know its not my clutch. It just seems like the motor is over-working to move the car, like its trying really hard, and its getting there, but slowly, as if somethings holding it back. Any suggestions?? And thank you a lot for your help.

 

[DSM4me44]

Forget what your OEM boost gauge says. Check and make sure you don't have a boost leak. When i had problems similar, one of my IC pipes was not tight and leaking.

 

[Eastwood95]

Definitely sounds like a boost leak, check all of your intercooler piping and couplers for cracks, leaks etc.........make a boost leak tester and do the test

Are you getting horrible gas mileage? Black soot from muffler?

 

[sheffester]

ok, this will be a noob question, but could someone teach me how to make a boost leak tester, and how to test it?

2nd, the motor is brand new. it has 5 miles on it. before i put the new motor in, my exhaust looked like it was from a diesel truck i had so much black smoke. so, thats one of the reasons i bought a new motor. i mean, when i started it the first time, before i put it up for the winter and re-did my gas tank, i had massive boost leak, and i found my leak before i drove it this time, my pipe coming off the turbo wasnt even connected to the intercooler. the pipe it self looks in rough shape, its kind of a braided rubber material, i think. does any company sell a solid replacement??

any suggestions will be grateful, and thanks for helping, and putting up with some of my newbie questions.

 

[DSM4me44]

If your engine has only 5 miles on it, I would be breaking it in a little, not boosting it. You could get a hard pipe upgrade. You can check the parts catalog here or check your favorite store and see what intercooler pipes they have to replace that.

 

[DSMunknown]

ok, this will be a noob question, but could someone teach me how to make a boost leak tester, and how to test it?

Click here.

 

[sheffester]

Thank you for the link, i should be able to put that together and test it soon. and to reply to DSM4me44's comment, i was not boosting it hard, just driving it. i wasnt doing any full throttle runs, and wasn't beating it. just trying to see if it ran right. sorry i didnt clear it up earlier. thanks for all the help everyone, and anyone have anything i can do other than a boost leak test? anything to look for? symtoms of what else it could be??? thanks again everyone, been the most help i have had so far.

 

[DSM4me44]

How long does it take you to build boost? Maybe your flapper isn't shutting all the way? How much boost did you build?

 

[sheffester]

boost is built relatively quick, quicker than normal it seems. my OEM gauge goes up to what i would guess would be around 12psi and holds there, and when its built up, i cant move that much at all, and it hesitates. i have to let all the way off the gas to let the boost escape, then i can go again. i dont know if it matters, but every time i put in the clutch i stalled unless i kept on the gas. as soon as i let off, it stalls. thanks again for all the help

 

[dareisstupid]

it almost sounds like the maf is broke or maybe something like that. do you motice any sounds when this is happening?

 

[oldman]

BOOST LEAK TEST!!!! And make sure your shift key is working before you get a warning.

 

[sheffester]

Sorry! No, there are no sounds. I can hear the turbo spooling, and then it kind of restricts the car from really going. Instead of helping me, its holding me back. I will perform a boost leak test probably in the next couple of days, and I will get back to you. Thank you all again, and any more suggestions/theories are greatly welcomed.

 

[laserspeeddemon]

i only have the original boost gauge, and it reads fine, it

This is your first problem. Get an aftermarket one, don't use the orginal one. After you have done that do a boost leak test. Seach oldman's post he has enough walkthroughs on it. When you have done that, check the turbo for shaft play.

 

[teamitr]

Like everyone one is saying do a boost leak test, and get an aftermarket boost gauge. After you have done the leak test and find that is not the problem you can check you plugs if you did not install new ones, and also maybe your cam angle sensor has gone bad cause those symptoms sound like it also. that is what happens when a cam angle sensor is bad it drives fine under normal conditions and the idle is great but then when you go to full throttle or high throttle the car will not advance and sound like it wants to go but it doesn't.

 

[sheffester]

Is there any way to check my cam angle sensor?? The plugs were maybe a month or 2 old, along with the wires.

 

[Eastwood95]

Chilton/Haynes Manual.......you're gonna need one anyways

 

[sheffester]

Ok, I built my boost leak tester today, and will be testing tomorrow. I was just wondering one thing though. How many psi would i be safe to push through??? I will be using a Sears Air Compressor, its what I have available to me. How much should I put in? like 15psi, or like 2? What would be the maximum I would want to reach without damaging anything, because thats the last thing I want right now. Thanks again, and any suggestions on my test are appreciated!

 

[oldman]

Something I posted in the past.

1. Disable your mbc.

2. Turn your motor to 30* ATDC to avoid valve overlap.

3. Start your test at the TB elbow and focus on area behind the TB first.

4. Spray soapy water at TB gasket, BISS, TB shaft on both sides, IM gasket, injector insulators, brake booster, afpr and all vacuum lines/connections.

5. Open your oil cap and listen for leaks. (PCV, valve seals/guide, rings)

5. Listen to your tailpipe for leaks. (EGR, valve overlap, jumped timing, bent/unseated valves)

6. Once all leaks are fixed, move the tester back to the turbo inlet.

7. Spray down the compressor cover (known leak), BOV return/flange (DO NOT TAP YOUR BOV LINE FOR YOUR MBC!!!), IC end tank/fins and all connections. Re- test.

8. Note that you will leak air into the crankcase through the turbo seal but do not panic, this is normal during a static pressure test as long as there are no shaft play.

The desired test result from the begining of the LICP (bypassing turbo) is around 20psi (on boost gauge) with the compressor set at 30psi, while taking no less than 30 seconds to bleed down to 0.

As a reference, my last test on my 500 mile new engine, I was able to pressurize the system to 25psi, bled down to about 16psi (my 1G bov) in about 30seconds, then took about 3 mins to 6psi and just kinda lingered there for a while. It's not easy to do but the point is it's possible. My next goal is 30psi After motor break in and Dodge modding my BOV. A boost leak test is one of most pita but important regular maintenace task, the key is patience and endurance, have fun.

 

[sheffester]

Thank you oldman. But I just have a couple of questions

1. So I would be placing my tester right before the throttle body, unhooking my UICP and having the flow of air going into the motor??? or do I have this confused?

2. What is a BISS? IM Gasket?

3. What do you mean by TB Shaft, and where is it located?

4. And what do you mean by bleeding the system???

Thank you again, your post will help me a lot, esepecially with those questions answered.

 

[dareisstupid]

when my turbo was blown it seemed like it was sucking power when it spooled but my oem gauge only read like 7 psi. and it smoked like a forest fire.

 

[oldman]

1. So I would be placing my tester right before the throttle body, unhooking my UICP and having the flow of air going into the motor??? or do I have this confused?

That is correct, you'll be testing the first half of your intake track, from the TB (throttle body) to the engine.

2. What is a BISS? IM Gasket?

BISS = Base Idle Speed Screw.

IM gasket = Intake Manifold gasket.

3. What do you mean by TB Shaft, and where is it located?

TB shaft = Throttle Body shaft.

4. And what do you mean by bleeding the system???

When you stop pumping air, watch how fast your boost gauge drop (bleed) down to 0 psi.

Thank you again, your post will help me a lot, esepecially with those questions answered.

No problem.

 

[sheffester]

Does anyone else think it could be my turbo?? Or my Cam Angle Sensor???

 

[DSM4me44]

The only thing your factory boost gauge is good for is watching the needle go up and down. Autometer makes great gauges for a great price. Id get one of those and see what your running and whether your boost level changes and what not.