Warning Lights

[SinaiTSi]

Yesterday right when I turned my car on, the radiator/coolant, charge/battery, and parking brake lights all came on and have stayed on ever since. I notice that when I actually engage my parking brake, the brake light actually gets a little bit brighter. Coolant is fine, I'm not leaking, and I'm not low. Battery is good. I'm almost positive that it's an electrical problem. Also, I looked at wiring diagams and these 3 warning lights are all directly connected with one another. Any ideas, or has anybody else had the same problem?

 

[Talesin]

Get your alternator checked. Classic sign of a dying alt.

Had it happen twice on the GSX, and once on my prior GS-T (because I was an idiot and didn't run with the heat shield on the exhaust manifold... the heat killed it off right quick).


Also, if your alt is going bad, see if you can get a Canadian model alternator replacement. Higher amperage capability (due to mandatory DRL up there), and shouldn't cost any more, as it's just a different way of wrapping the windings.

 

[BaddAssGst]

Yesterday right when I turned my car on, the radiator/coolant, charge/battery, and parking brake lights all came on and have stayed on ever since. I notice that when I actually engage my parking brake, the brake light actually gets a little bit brighter. Coolant is fine, I'm not leaking, and I'm not low. Battery is good. I'm almost positive that it's an electrical problem. Also, I looked at wiring diagams and these 3 warning lights are all directly connected with one another. Any ideas, or has anybody else had the same problem?

Sounds like a charging problem. Probably your alternator. Pull it off and have AutoZone test it out on there machine.

Ehh.. beat me to it.

 

[SinaiTSi]

I just recently did exhaust, I put the heat shield back on my exhaust mani. but not down below on the o2 housing area. Could that've killed it, or started to anyways?

 

[BUCK]

I just recently did exhaust, I put the heat shield back on my exhaust mani. but not down below on the o2 housing area. Could that've killed it, or started to anyways?

YUP - that & ANY Power Steering Fluid leaks onto the Alt - & now that Alt is killing your ECU BTW...

 

[SinaiTSi]

now that Alt is killing your ECU BTW...

More details on that would be nice.

 

[SinaiTSi]

This happened on Friday. I've driven it a few times since then too. How badly does this hurt the ECU and when, all the time, just when I'm driving? Also, how long after the lights have came on do I have before it goes totally bad? Any help on this subject is appreciated

 

[BUCK]

Not to be rude dude but would it be the SCORES of Threads that validate that all your idiot lights coming on at the same time means your ALT is dying what you are looking for?

Or the SCORES of Threads validating that Power Steering leaks kill Voltage Regulators that then fail to HIGH VOLTAGE & fry your ECU what you are looking for?

It's a FACT dude - & I have FIRST HAND experience with it - & I DON"T post B/S.

So put your Heat Shields back on - Fix your P/S Fluid leaks - Get a New Alt & shortly after a new ECU before you flood your Combustion Chamber & Crankcase with gas & bend a Rod - then report back.

luv, Uncle Buck

 

[SinaiTSi]

Not to be rude dude but would it be the SCORES of Threads that validate that all your idiot lights coming on at the same time means your ALT is dying what you are looking for?

Or the SCORES of Threads validating that Power Steering leaks kill Voltage Regulators that then fail to HIGH VOLTAGE & fry your ECU what you are looking for?

It's a FACT dude - & I have FIRST HAND experience with it - & I DON"T post B/S.

So put your Heat Shields back on - Fix your P/S Fluid leaks - Get a New Alt & shortly after a new ECU before you flood your Combustion Chamber & Crankcase with gas & bend a Rod - then report back.

luv, Uncle Buck

No, I understand that the idiot lights coming on mean the alternator is dying and that power steering fluid and heat can kill it and then a dying alternator can kill and ECU. Trust me, I Believe You on all of that.

I just wanted to know what the alternator is exactly doing to the ECU (just "frying" it?) and how long before the ECU will be totally fryed. I'm still gonna change the alternator and getting a new ECU regardless. Just the more you know about what is going on with your car is better. Also, I'd like to know about the ECU because if the alternator is just frying the capacitors, then I can try to just change them myself rather than buying a whole new ECU. Thanks.

 

[BUCK]

I'm no electronic genius by any means - Thats been proven by the fact that I "fried" (as in smoke coming from ECU) a new rebuilt ECU the first time I started the car after installing the ECU with my bad Alternator ( it was putting out about 18 Volts) before I figured out than when the Power Steering Fluid damages the Voltage Regulator in our cars the VR often fails to "high" - as in 18 Volts or so - Fact is we all have to fix these 3 problems at some time.

In my case the PREVIOUS Owner had flooded the Cylinders & Crankcase with gas when previous ECU died - he bent a Rod too.

 

[SinaiTSi]

Thanks for all the help so far. Now I'm about to go pull my alternator and get it checked and replaced if need be. My question now is, will I definitely need a new ECU after 3 days of my alternator going bad, or will I be fine with the new alternator in? Also, if I do need a new ECU, is it just new caps I need, or a whole new ECU? I appreciate any help on this. Thanks.

 

[Lordpaxin]

www.vfaq.com

Read about ecu Caps.

Also he didnt say you toasted your ecu. Just prolonged or in some cases, instant over powering will fry them.

Ive Had my Alternator SOAKED with fluid before, and it never died. but For some reason I never have the problems most people have. Everyone around here is always talking about DSM JUNK how this and that and this always goes wrong.

and im just like "huh"

 

[SinaiTSi]

I just pulled my alt. and i'm gonna go get it tested somewhere to see if it's bad and if it is, i'll obviously get a new one. I'll pop that in and see if I have anymore problems. I don't want to go out and buy a new ECU if mine is still good, so i'll check that out also.

 

[BUCK]

Run that ECU till it fails of course - & As I said earlier, we ALL are doing these repairs - It's easier to do the P/S Pump repairs with Alt out BTW as Fluid goes everywhere - Use Viton O Rings if possible & don't forget the teeny little buggers on the Pressure Switch Connector Pin - I personally took that "opportunity" to flush the old P/S Fluid & go back with Pennzoil Synthetic P/S Fluid.

 

[SinaiTSi]

Thanks for all the help. I replaced the alternator yesterday, made sure that there are also no leaks, and put my lower heat shield back on. The new alternator actually smoothed out my idle too. I used to get some popping or small backfire, I don't get it anymore. Everything seems to be working great.