2G Walbro 400lph install?

[Bedicine]

Hello,

Was wondering if anyone had installed the 400lph. I’ve found articles on the 255 and 450 which the pump seems to be a bit different.

I’m having trouble having the pump sit if I use the black spacer that locks it in since it can’t get over the one part of the pump. Can I use the plastic washer and o ring only or will I have issues with it leaking?

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[Bedicine]

Would this way be fine for the install

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[Bedicine]

Feels stable

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[We're on Boost]

Would this way be fine for the install

No, the way you have it shown in post #2 and #3, the o-ring will blow right out of there.
Probably somebody who is familiar with the 2g receiver tube and that pump could show you ways to do it.

 

[Bedicine]

I’ve tried searching but can’t find anything on the 400. Had to cut the black rubber down to almost nothing to get the pump to sit due to the height.

 

[We're on Boost]

Had to cut the black rubber down to almost nothing to get the pump to sit due to the height.

The black rubber part at the bottom that you have cut down might be ok. That isn't what I'm looking at. I'm looking at the o-ring which looks, in post #3, like it's below the barb on the pump outlet and sitting very near the bottom of the metal receiver tube, with nothing below it to hold it in the receiver tube. When there is pressure in the line, it will push the o-ring down and it will leak like crazy.

 

[Bedicine]

Wondering if I can somehow work the plastic cap over the lip of the pump before the rubber if that would hold it in place

 

[We're on Boost]

Wondering if I can somehow work the plastic cap over the lip of the pump before the rubber if that would hold it in place

I doubt it, but there does need to be something to hold the o-ring in proper position, or else some type of seal that is different than an o-ring, like seals people have found for Toyota and Evo. Or else cut the stock receiver tube out all together and replace it with an elbow fitting that has a hose barb on one end and an AN -6 or -8 on the other end.

The hose barb on the Walbro F90000262 outlet is made to fit inside a rubber hose. It's not made for this janky 3-piece arrangement with a cap, o-ring, and plastic standoff under the o-ring.
So what I've been doing with my intank Walbro 255 is a little different than what you will find in other threads in here. I found soft (60 A durometer) rubber (viton or nitrile) tubing that fits tight on the walbro outlet and then is also tight inside the stock steel receiver tube. I lube up the rubber with Molykote 111 (silicone compound in a squeeze tube) just before assembly. Otherwise it would be so hard to shove together that it would probably break something. The 60A rubber is soft enough to squeeze down (compress) a little.

I'll put a picture in of what mine looks like with the rubber tube on the pump outlet. I've cut the rubber to the exact length so it goes to the end of the walbro outlet and goes down to the base of the outlet on top of the pump. On the 255 that's about 15/16 of an inch. That way it is over the barb on the walbro outlet, which seals it. And it can't go anywhere!

Your Walbro F90000262 I think has an outlet barb diameter that is intended to fit inside 3/8" ID rubber hose. So you would need different rubber tube than what I bought, and the stuff I bought is not available anymore anyway! (Walbro 255 outlet is made for 5/16" ID rubber hose)

What is available that I think might work is nitrile (Buna-N) soft (60A) rubber from McMaster-Carr. They have 3/8" ID tubing in 3 different wall thicknesses, giving 3 different ODs. Probably one or the other of the 2 thicker walls would work, but I don't know what the ID of the 2g steel receiver tube is. Anyway, I think the one that is 9/16" OD and the one that is 5/8" OD are the most likely to work. They need to fit fairly tight when it's all put together, to seal.

Downside - it's expensive. Minimum order is 10 feet of each size you order. Plus shipping.
Other downside - it might just not fit right, diameter wise, with that pump in the 2g receiver.
But I think it's what I would try if I didn't want to cut out the whole stock steel receiver tube.

Here's the web page where this tubing is listed:
https://www.mcmaster.com/nitrile-ru...t-soft-rubber-tubing-for-fuel-and-lubricants/

They don't have a "shopping cart". To pick an item you pick the "10" for 10 feet of it, put a "1" in the little field labeled "Each", pick "Add to Order" and then look at "Order" which is like the shopping cart.

I'm going to post a pic of a mock order I made up of these 2 tube sizes, and a Pic of how my 255 looks just before I put it into the receiver.

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[Bedicine]

appreciate the information above. Thinking this might be the solution then from rtm

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[We're on Boost]

Thinking this might be the solution then from rtm

Ahhh, well, that fitting they have with AN on one end and hose barb on the other end, the hose barb is for 8mm hose! That's 5/16" ! and the hose they give you with it is 8mm hose.
I'm pretty sure your pump outlet diameter is sized for 3/8" hose. You should measure that up. I thought RTM would have an option in a drop-down for 10mm (or 3/8") hose barb and hose but I don't see it.

But what they have going there is basically the idea of cutting out the stock receiver tube all together and replacing it with an AN to hose barb type of fitting, with a seal on the inside of the bulkhead.

If you don't mind cutting (drilling) out the stock steel receiver tube, something like this would be good.
Take a look at how Marty did his. That is @1990TSIAWDTALON in here.
I don't remember which thread he has pics of his in. And you might have to ask him for specifics on the 90 degree AN to hose barb fitting he used and where he bought it.
Anyway this basic way of doing it is the best I think in the long run.
You would also need to work out how to go from the AN fitting on top of this to your regular fuel line going to the engine bay. Might as well get it all figured out from end to end before you buy anything!

 

[1990TSIAWDTALON]

1G - 1g AWD Fuel Pump Hanger AN Bulkhead Fitting Mod

1g AWD Fuel Pump Hanger AN Bulkhead Fitting ModAs I was eliminating fueling issues (still to be resolved) on my 1gb DSM, I decided to go ahead and run AN line and a AN bulkhead fitting to make sure I was getting plenty of fuel to the rail and injectors so I got out my spare hanger and went to...

www.dsmtuners.com

Pardon Our Interruption

If you read my tech article, you will see I wasn't happy with the "3/8" barb. It was smaller than 3/8".
I found the 8an to be similar and considered it a restriction which is why I did a 10an on one hanger. If I did it again, I would install a 90* 10an bulkhead fitting, just fyi. More clearance under the top cover in the trunk.
I would advise going nylon an line all the way to your filter. It is sooo nice to work with!
Marty

 

[Bedicine]

Appreciate it, was trying to find your original post. I ordered some fittings last night. Going to mock something up when they arrive and will post the results on here.

Random question but the rubber hose that comes in the walbro install kits is rated to be submerged in the tank, correct?

I’ve got braided lines for the feed and the return to feed from the tank to the front

 

[We're on Boost]

That tech article of Marty's is really good for showing the details.

the rubber hose that comes in the walbro install kits is rated to be submerged in the tank, correct?

Walbro installation kit 400-1136 is the kit I see for the F90000262 pump.
I haven't found anything that says or any picture that shows markings on the hose in that kit.
I would probably use whatever hose comes in that kit, but the actual submersible hose that people are talking about is rated SAE 30R10.
When you search the entire Gates Engine Hose catalog for the word submersible, you come up with one hose, period.
It is their 4219 hose.
3/8" ID is the biggest size they have of it.

Here's a shot of the 4219 section from the catalog. Note the max working pressure is 100psi (good) and burst pressure is 400psi.
Note also that they typoed the far left column heading. That is the ID column and they labeled it "OD".

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[Bedicine]

Finally got around to rigging something up tonight. Hoping this will work with the 400, couldn’t run the rubber gasket due to the size though, think it would cause any issues?

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[We're on Boost]

Holy cow I didn't know the 2g fuel pump hanger was so much shorter than the 1g.
But it looks like you got it all packed in there.
What rubber gasket are you asking about?

 

[Bedicine]

Holy cow I didn't know the 2g fuel pump hanger was so much shorter than the 1g.
But it looks like you got it all packed in there.
What rubber gasket are you asking about?

The rubber that sits on the bottom of the holder. Was so tight I couldn’t get it in the bottom so it’s just sitting on the bare metal hanger now

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[We're on Boost]

Oh I see. Well I don't know, but if it is held securely then I'd say it's probably ok. The rubber might have just been to reduce vibration transmitted to the tank for the purpose of reducing noise. It looks like you've got it strapped in there too with a big hefty zip tie.

 

[We're on Boost]

I'm kind of imagining that the hose barb fitting coming down through the tank cover plate runs right into the outlet pipe of the pump. Can't see it in your pics because there is rubber hose over it now. But is that what happened? Is that why the pump can't be any higher?

 

[99dsmer4g63]

The rubber that sits on the bottom of the holder. Was so tight I couldn’t get it in the bottom so it’s just sitting on the bare metal hanger now

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Not sure because I can’t see it with the red circle but on the 450 pump install most people will oblong the hole for the bottom metal retainer allowing it to go down further and being able to insert the bottom rubber piece after they trim it in half.
-Daniel

 

[Bedicine]

What does the bottom rubber do, just stop it from rubbing or stop vibration?

 

[Bedicine]

I'm kind of imagining that the hose barb fitting coming down through the tank cover plate runs right into the outlet pipe of the pump. Can't see it in your pics because there is rubber hose over it now. But is that what happened? Is that why the pump can't be any higher?

The nipple from the pump is essentially touch the bottom of the bulkhead fitting. Rubber is cut to 1.25".

 

[We're on Boost]

The nipple from the pump is essentially touch the bottom of the bulkhead fitting. Rubber is cut to 1.25".

Ok. That must be why in this thread for installing the 450 in a 2g, a few people said they cut a little off the end of the Walbro outlet pipe. Which is plastic so that wouldn't be hard to do if there's nothing right in there like an anti-backflow valve.
https://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/walbro-450-install.437144/

What does the bottom rubber do, just stop it from rubbing or stop vibration?

It should reduce vibration/noise. That's probably the purpose of it.
But from a manufacturing viewpoint, that molded rubber part hangs onto the bottom end of the fuel pump really well, and it's held by the metal bottom bracket really well. It's very secure. The molded rubber part has a pretty complicated shape to do this. The metal bottom bracket can be made very simple because all the complicated shape is done in the rubber part. Once you get the mold made you can pump out thousands of those rubber parts at low cost. So it's a low cost secure way of suspending the pump in rubber.