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Walbro 255; stock FPR?

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Eclipse98_RS

15+ Year Contributor
233
2
Jul 15, 2006
Otsego, Minnesota
Ok, first off I did a search and couldnt find any of these two linked together and I had a question about it. I am going to be getting a walbro 255 in my car very soon. The question I have is " If I have 550cc Injectors, and a wally 255, will it overpower my stock FPR?"
Any info is welcomed, and like I said I did a search and couldnt come up with anything, so if you find some info please point me towards that.
Thanks,
-Dan
 
Readings? If you are talking about the temp guage it sits in the middle once warmed up. Is there another reading I should check?
ECT (Engine Coolant Temperature) sensor is located right next to your gauge sensor on the thermostate housing. The gauge sensor you're referring to is not connected to your ECU and has no operational effect, the ECT however is a direct input to the ECU, the system will not go into closed loop until this sensor reaches 164* (around), the coolant temperature in your logger reflects the reading from the ECT.

Also, I just took it out for another test run.. I disabled the wastegate and my car wont boost past 10 psi. I thought my mbc was broken so that's why I unhooked the wg. Could my wg be stuck open and causing my af to be off enough for the car to stay in openloop? Just throwing out ideas.
Sounds like you have multiple problems, you should post a new thread on your boost control problems so this thread doesn't get thrown off topic.

81.2% = extremely lean?
Extremely rich. 81% is the maximum adjustment for a 90' ECU, you in fact have FPR overrun but I suspect it's not your only problem.
 
Yes the sensor you speak of is the one I replaced. I didn't know there was a reading on the logger that I could look at the actual temperature. I will check that and see if I'm gettin close to that temp. Just a what-if... if the temp sensor is reading over the 164* range and I know I have a good O2 sensor, what else is left? The ECU? Also, my afc is set to around +9 all the way in low and high throttle. Is that way too much fuel for a car with FPR overrun and 550s?
 
i have been running a 255 non rewired with a stock fpf with a 14b at 13-16 lbs for oer a year now and have not had oe problem wit anything and i get over 460 miles to a full tank
 
exact same thing with me. I have not rewired it and it works great but I think it's rich when im at WOT. I'm going to get a afpr.
 
when im at 15-16 lbs im runnig about 10.8 11.00 afr at wot which id rather be safe then sorry bette than runnin lean and the car stock map always run richanyways out the factory
 
Is it safe or sensible enough to upgrade the FPR without upgrading the fuel pump right away?
 
I've been running the 255lph HP pump with rewire for 10 years with no AFPR - not because I was trying to get away with something, but because I was ill-informed. I have - for about 10 years - had intermittent problems with the CEL - and it's always come on at idle. hhhhmmmmmm.

The OBDII for the CEL says O2 sensor - sniffing rich or lean, I'm guessing.

I only just found out I should be using an AFPR the other day. So I'm hoping that the AFPR install will fix my CEL problems.... and get me better throttle response/performance and save fuel.

My throttle inputs have always felt way out of tune.
 
But that's all irrelevant Mike, since it's well known that your car was a freak of nature. :D



...or maybe I am just dumb? :shhh: :sosad: I just decided one day I was not going to put an AFPR on it. Never really liked how the bulky AFPRs are. I was expecting issues (considering both my pumps were seeing 14.5V at idle!) but they never came. :confused: In fact, since I ran the car on forced open loop, it idled on the leaner side.
 
Their are to many mixed opinions. It's prob better to upgrade your afar. Won't hurt anything.
 
i have a 2g with a 255 and no fpr on rc 550's no real probs yet.. runs alittle rich at times nut still works just fine.. but will be getting a fpr soon.. if your going to do it.. do it right..
 
i have been running a 255 non rewired with a stock fpf with a 14b at 13-16 lbs for oer a year now and have not had oe problem wit anything and i get over 460 miles to a full tank

460 miles!? TEACH ME NOW!

I would like to vote afpr with a 255 fp or go home. I am on a 190 rewired for multiple reasons. Take your pick.
 
People run them without AFPR all the time. If it runs fine blow 200 dollars elsewhere

Mine doesn't. CEL at idle once in a while from the beginning - now more regularly. I can't hardly go a day after resetting the light anymore, almost all the time.

I think maybe my FPR is damaged.

Of course it could be something else, but my O2 sensor is being triggered, so what else? It's running way rich, especially at idle.
 
i have been running a 255 non rewired with a stock fpf with a 14b at 13-16 lbs for oer a year now and have not had oe problem wit anything and i get over 460 miles to a full tank

I have taken it upon myself to translate this post for you all. :thumb:

What he really meant to say was:

macks96boltdsm said:
I bought this car recently and the previous owner told he had a 255 LPH fuel pump in it and I believed him. Therefore I believe I am accomplishing said feat in my previous quote, even though everyone with the slightest understanding of fuel systems, knows that it is not possible.
 
Just to add fuel to this fire here.
Hi, my name is Sam.
*everyone- "Hi Sam"*
I run a Wally255, with a stock FPR and proud of it.

Its my DD, drag car, autox car, road race car. I've tuned it on both DSMLink 2.5 and V3, and AEM EMS.
All systems were 440+ whp on 91 octane. I average 20mpg, 26mpg was the most I've got driving to AZ from Socal. Under boost I've got a solid clean flat 11.3:1 AFR on pump and 12.0:1 when the meth is spraying. There are other threads on Dsmtuners with my maps posted on Link and AEM. There is no strange spots in the map that looks like compensation for fuel overrun. People even call BS on how clean my VE tables are, but they try it in their own cars and are impressed with how smooth the car runs.

I do agree, if you are on an AFC or other airflow hiding piggy backs, I'd reccomend having an AFPR. But by the time you spend $150 on a AFC, $150 for a AFPR and whatever for a logger setup, your should of just bought a DSMLink Lite.

Just my dollar and 3 cents.
 
Just to add fuel to this fire here.
Hi, my name is Sam.
*everyone- "Hi Sam"*
I run a Wally255, with a stock FPR and proud of it.

Its my DD, drag car, autox car, road race car. I've tuned it on both DSMLink 2.5 and V3, and AEM EMS.
All systems were 440+ whp on 91 octane. I average 20mpg, 26mpg was the most I've got driving to AZ from Socal. Under boost I've got a solid clean flat 11.3:1 AFR on pump and 12.0:1 when the meth is spraying. There are other threads on Dsmtuners with my maps posted on Link and AEM. There is no strange spots in the map that looks like compensation for fuel overrun. People even call BS on how clean my VE tables are, but they try it in their own cars and are impressed with how smooth the car runs.

I do agree, if you are on an AFC or other airflow hiding piggy backs, I'd reccomend having an AFPR. But by the time you spend $150 on a AFC, $150 for a AFPR and whatever for a logger setup, your should of just bought a DSMLink Lite.

Just my dollar and 3 cents.

Thanks for the information.

So with DSMLink you can control your fuel by way of injector? So I can get better performance/finer tuning by getting DSMlink and then I won't need an AFPR or AFC? OMG
 
Thanks for the information.

So with DSMLink you can control your fuel by way of injector? So I can get better performance/finer tuning by getting DSMlink and then I won't need an AFPR or AFC? OMG

Real engine managment control fueling through directly controlling injector pulse width. Piggy backs like the afc control fuel by modifying the airflow value, ecu sees less air, dumps less fuel. The bad side with that is when the ECU sees less air, it thinks there is less boost, so it adds more ignition timing, which is opposite of what you want with more boost.

So we want more power, what do we do? :aha: More boost!
With more boost we need more fuel, to control it you get a piggy back. :sneaky:
Scale down big injectors, timing gets advanced, car knocks. :ohdamn:
Turn boost down to prevent knock.......ROFL
Back to square one :banghead:
 
Real engine managment control fueling through directly controlling injector pulse width. Piggy backs like the afc control fuel by modifying the airflow value, ecu sees less air, dumps less fuel. The bad side with that is when the ECU sees less air, it thinks there is less boost, so it adds more ignition timing, which is opposite of what you want with more boost.

So we want more power, what do we do? :aha: More boost!
With more boost we need more fuel, to control it you get a piggy back. :sneaky:
Scale down big injectors, timing gets advanced, car knocks. :ohdamn:
Turn boost down to prevent knock.......ROFL
Back to square one :banghead:

I really appreciate you taking the time to help a newbie. This is really helpful.

So with the DSMLink, would I also need AEM EMS Series2, like you? It's too expensive for me! :cry:
 
Why would you need an AEM with a DSMlink? That's ridiculous.

I have no idea. This is why my car hasn't really been modded in 10 years. Everything is expensive as shit and I don't understand what I need. I hit a wall!

I just want a good street turbo/intercooler, and a computer that knows how much fuel and boost to use, I guess? :hmm:

Simple to me. I think I heard I've got the lucky year number when it comes to DSMlink. So maybe I'll just get that.

PM if you don't mind giving me a road plan of upgrades. :D
 
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