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(Video) Finally Finished My Exhaust - TIG / Cutting / Fabrication Porn.

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I tig welded stainless exhaust systems and pressure tested catalytic converters for volvo, Cadillac, audi, emergency response vehicles, semi trucks, etc with very high quality control and never once did we back purge.

I tig welded the exhaust on my dd 6 years ago and it looks like the day i did it, even with harsh northern road conditions.

I personally have never seen anyone purge an exhaust.
 
I tig welded stainless exhaust systems and pressure tested catalytic converters for volvo, Cadillac, audi, emergency response vehicles, semi trucks, etc with very high quality control and never once did we back purge.

I tig welded the exhaust on my dd 6 years ago and it looks like the day i did it, even with harsh northern roads conditions.

I personally have never seen anyone purge an exhaust.


Ive seen tons of shitty oem exhausts from cars that cost 60-100k thats why there is big money in aftermarket parts.

Most oem's dont use stainless though. So like i said. You dont need to purge mild steel, or aluminized steel.

I dont need to convice anyone at this point the info is there. And for what it's worth. STM, JMF, BWR, KLM, ETS, English, Boostin, Boostjunkiez, Full Race etc all back purge stainless steel.
 
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Jesus...you guys need to take a yoga class and calm down.

UrbanSmoker - You seem to know a thing or two about a thing or two, so what do you think (pragmatically), how long will these welds last? Two years? Ten Years? Twenty years? Is it really worth all the trouble to back purge the welds on a stainless steel exhaust? It's not like I had it welded up with a MIG, right?

The weld is just fine, no difference on the outside, slightly less protected on the inside, but the im willing to bet the carbon build up takes care of that. Exhausts dont rust from the inside out. Even in northern states.

Hell the cheapest exhaust manufacturers can make for economy cars still last 20 years in the salt and snow.
 
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Luxury and high end vehicles absolutely use stainless.

Lol you may want to go back and reread my comment. There seems to be some poor reading comprehension going on, leading to some confusion on your part. I really shouldn't have to explain the economy car comparison.
 
Ive seen tons of sh**ty oem exhausts from cars that cost 60-100k thats why there is big money in aftermarket parts.

Most oem's dont use stainless though. So like i said. You dont need to purge mild steel, or aluminized steel.

I dont need to convice anyone at this point the info is there. And for what it's worth. STM, JMF, BWR, KLM, ETS, English, Boostin, Boostjunkiez, Full Race etc all back purge stainless steel.

All oems use stainless. Most of the ordinary vehicles use ferritic stainless steels which have less chrome content and are less prone to sensitization than austenitic stainless steels. Higher end vehicles use austenitics, though everything is a lap joint for integrity, longevity, and to reduce cost (I.E. no back purging due to the material overlap trapping enough shielding gas to inherently protect the back side of the weld. If you see and aluminized coating on a stock exhaust anymore, it's for looks because people expect their exhaust system to be "pretty" for a long time.
 
Ive not read all the comments yet but as this is just a DP back system the need for purging is not needed in reality! Its plenty strong enough for 80% of the peeps on the road, purging is 100% needed on manifolds and even more so if its a turbo as you want zero parts flaking off. So only the turbo manifolds only need purging.

My system is purged, only because i went super thin on the pipe and i wanted to to be stong for the wall i choose.

However industry standsrd is 1.6mm wall and with good penatration you will find almost all of the systems never crack from not purging the system! I did my friends mid section yesrs ago! Still in tact and still plenty strong enough.

Saying it needs to be purged is only the opinion of the guy whos building it for a specific purpose, anyone can comment and say otherwise but as a welder/fabricator myself on a daily driver normal thickness stainless tube i would not even do purging unless i was asked to by request. Not because im cutting corners or trying to save time but its because its not required on such a system,

Also another think to keep in mind is filler wire! When welding 304l its best to use 316 wire as this also reduces cracking welds aswell, its much better and our Ferrari manifolds are all done this way and as they run super hot anyway they melt the pipes! NONE of the welds ever crack or split just the pipe and thats not purged either.
 
Thanks for posting this. I have no doubt your new exhaust would serve you very well. :)
 
Looks & sounds like a bunch of SJWs that're "feelin the Bern" in this thread. Lmao Interesting music to hear while reading the comments, I'll give you that much.

I usually trust those that know more than myself on specific topics. Or anyone that does such for a living. Reason being? They have an idea about what they're talking about. Time to get the sand out..
 
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